![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#21 | |
Leaking Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
City & State: Atlantic Canada
My Country: Canada
Line Voltage: Ground, 0Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 5,558
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#22 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 28,106
|
![]() if the element is not plated with something like nickel and is pure copper then it can develop tiny pinholes in the surface,
combine that with moisture and the internal winding can rust and bridge to the copper shell. very common in imersion water heaters - the rust will build up until the pressure splits the copper open if you dont have an RCD breaker on it! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#23 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2010
City & State: Alberta
My Country: Canada
Posts: 2,983
|
![]() These heating elements expand so much when hot, that the wire gets longer and can push through the MgO and short. I think most failures are thin spots in the wire element which run super hot and expand too much, short to the tube or just go open-circuit.
They seem to be NiCr or Kanthal wire inside. I don't believe the (oven) moisture problem because it's near impossible to get enough past the end seal and inside the tube, to corrode the element so badly. MgO is hygroscopic though. Tubular heating elements data. Immersion hot water water heating elements, I've seen the sheath get covered with mineral deposits and develop hot spots. Or corrode and micro leak inside. With clothes dryers, the heating element is open coil? I find if the vent is not connected, duct not sealed good or partially blocked- it blows the moist air into the dryer and laundry room. Lots of lint dust too. It might be what is eating the fuse blocks, unless you live seaside or something. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|