Re: Samsung LN52A530P1FXZA Tab bonding repair
In my limited experience, I've found that it can be tricky to get the pad dimensions and placement correct. I bought 1mm thick silicone heat transfer pad, so that I could experiment with different thicknesses. Actually, that's a bit of a pain, as the 1mm thick stuff is very fiddly, so you might be better off with thicker.
Everyone's issue is going to be different. The following is what I found I needed to do for my issue:
Initially, I covered the full width of the problem tab, covering in particular where the ribbon connects to the panel, i.e. relatively high up. However, after a couple of days, the lines started reappearing.
I experimented with pressure from my finger, and found that I needed to press on the right-hand side of the tab, not the middle or the left. Because the closest screw for the metal bezel was to the left of the tab, having the strip of silicone across the whole width of the tab was actually working against me. The metal bezel was pivoting on the left-hand edge of the strip, so was pushed down more on the left than the right, which isn't where I wanted the pressure to be. If your screws are in different locations to the problem tabs, this will of course vary.
I also found that I need to press a little below the connection, i.e. where the ribbon cable is mostly in thin air.
I modified my silicone to only be on the right hand side of the tab to target the pressure, and moved it down so that it was also against the ribbon, although not quite wrapping around as others have done. This seemed to work OK for me, although it's only been a week so far.
Regarding my own query from https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...&postcount=138 I decided against also using Kapton tape to keep the silicone in place. However, for me, the tabs never got hot. On a older model LCD I worked on previously, the tabs did get hot, so this is obviously not universal. But if your tabs don't get hot, then the action of the silicone is less heat transfer rather just putting pressure on the tab, in which case you might get away with using other materials.
I attach pictures of the problem as seen from a distance, and from close (with a ruler, as I was concerned the problem might "spread" further left so wanted to keep a record of it), and how it appears when I press the tab to make the problem go away. I also attach pics of my initial attempt to fix with full-width silicone, and my latest attempt with a smaller, more targetted, application.
I'll keep this thread informed on how well this lasts.
Is there a chance to get this thread stickied, and maybe renamed to "DIY tab bonding repair" or similar, as this seems to be the best place to discuss this?
In my limited experience, I've found that it can be tricky to get the pad dimensions and placement correct. I bought 1mm thick silicone heat transfer pad, so that I could experiment with different thicknesses. Actually, that's a bit of a pain, as the 1mm thick stuff is very fiddly, so you might be better off with thicker.
Everyone's issue is going to be different. The following is what I found I needed to do for my issue:
Initially, I covered the full width of the problem tab, covering in particular where the ribbon connects to the panel, i.e. relatively high up. However, after a couple of days, the lines started reappearing.
I experimented with pressure from my finger, and found that I needed to press on the right-hand side of the tab, not the middle or the left. Because the closest screw for the metal bezel was to the left of the tab, having the strip of silicone across the whole width of the tab was actually working against me. The metal bezel was pivoting on the left-hand edge of the strip, so was pushed down more on the left than the right, which isn't where I wanted the pressure to be. If your screws are in different locations to the problem tabs, this will of course vary.
I also found that I need to press a little below the connection, i.e. where the ribbon cable is mostly in thin air.
I modified my silicone to only be on the right hand side of the tab to target the pressure, and moved it down so that it was also against the ribbon, although not quite wrapping around as others have done. This seemed to work OK for me, although it's only been a week so far.
Regarding my own query from https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...&postcount=138 I decided against also using Kapton tape to keep the silicone in place. However, for me, the tabs never got hot. On a older model LCD I worked on previously, the tabs did get hot, so this is obviously not universal. But if your tabs don't get hot, then the action of the silicone is less heat transfer rather just putting pressure on the tab, in which case you might get away with using other materials.
I attach pictures of the problem as seen from a distance, and from close (with a ruler, as I was concerned the problem might "spread" further left so wanted to keep a record of it), and how it appears when I press the tab to make the problem go away. I also attach pics of my initial attempt to fix with full-width silicone, and my latest attempt with a smaller, more targetted, application.
I'll keep this thread informed on how well this lasts.
Is there a chance to get this thread stickied, and maybe renamed to "DIY tab bonding repair" or similar, as this seems to be the best place to discuss this?
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