Peak Electronic Design model ESR60 does me well but a bit pricey at ~£70.
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
I was looking at the altas ESR70, whats the difference between the ESR60 and ESR70?
The PSU doesn't make any sounds at all when I click the power button. I tried unplugging the inverter from the PSU, but the TV still has no response when I press the power button (red LED is still on though)
I checked the larger white fuse, and the smaller blue fuse on the inverter board. Both ends of each fuse read 24.6V, however when I measured the resistance on the blue fuse I got 2.5 ohms and the white fuse reads 0.4 ohms. The blue fuse resistance seems high but I don't know if its just the specs of the fuse.
I checked the voltages from the 24V pin output on the PSU and both read 24.3V coming out of the PSU.
I was looking at the altas ESR70, whats the difference between the ESR60 and ESR70?
The PSU doesn't make any sounds at all when I click the power button. I tried unplugging the inverter from the PSU, but the TV still has no response when I press the power button (red LED is still on though)
I checked the larger white fuse, and the smaller blue fuse on the inverter board. Both ends of each fuse read 24.6V, however when I measured the resistance on the blue fuse I got 2.5 ohms and the white fuse reads 0.4 ohms. The blue fuse resistance seems high but I don't know if its just the specs of the fuse.
I checked the voltages from the 24V pin output on the PSU and both read 24.3V coming out of the PSU.
2.5 ohms? seems suspicious. Take the fuse off the board and measure its resistance again. It should be less than an ohm if its good.
OK, the standby 5.1V power supply is working, and you also get the 24Vdc power supply when power switch is activated (but the red LED is still on) is working, so that means the PS_ON is working, otherwise you will not get the 24Vdc. On the connector, there is a pin "BON" for backlights on, what do you get there?
Measuring the largest capacitor, the postive and negative pin read 0V. There is no response with both 5V1 or PON pin voltages when I press the Power button.
I removed the fuse from the inverter board, and measuring it now gives me 4.2 Ohms, may be a bad fuse? Do you know the specs of this fuse? Photo below.
The BON pin read near 0V or more accurately it measures 0.018V on standby.
"There is no response with both 5V1 or PON pin voltages when I press the Power button."
So you mean the 5.1V is always around 5v which that is how it should be since it is the standby voltage which should be there when you plug the TV into an outlet. The PON (from the Main board) should go from 0v to around 3v or higher when power switch is turn on, this PON will turn on the 24V for the backlights inverter board. Once the TV finished self test, the main board will send the BON to turn on the backlights, and also the panel on to turn on the T-CON board.
So right now you do not have the BON, but do you have the PON and the 24Vdc?
I found 6 voltages regulators on the main board, how would I know if the regulator is defective? Do regulators usually have one ground pin that is suppose to read 0V?
You can tell if the Regulator is a fixed regulator by observe the followings:notes, we will look at the body of the regulator with 3 bottom pins pointing toward you, lets make left pin to be pin1, middle pin will be pin 2, right pin will be pin3.
Fixed regulator, pin1 will be tied to ground, pin2 will be output pin, pin 3 is an input pin.The numbering on the regulator will indicate the output voltage. I.E. AZ117D 3.3 (or 33 on other brand) = 3.3V regulator. Notes: I think you misread the 3 as an 8. The output should be within +/-2%.
Adjustable regulator, there will be one resistor connected between pin1 and pin2, and there is another between pin1 and ground. There is a formula to calculate the output voltage which is set by the two resistors. The main thing on the adjustable regulator is that the voltage between pin1 and pin2 will always and HAS to be 1.25V, if you do not have this, then the regulator is bad. Second thing is that the voltage between pin1 and pin2 (1.25V) + the voltage between pin 1 and ground = output voltage. I.E. Pin1&2 = 1.25 + 1.25 pin1 and ground, then the output will be 2.5V +/- 2%.
N603: This is 3.3V fixed regulator. OK
AZ1117D 8.3E1 B89N70: more likely to be AZ1117D 3.3E1 B89N70
pin1-0v
pin2-3.31v
pin3-5.27v
Comment