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#861 |
Solder Sloth
Join Date: Nov 2012
City & State: CO
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 8,121
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![]() On hand, mega8's and a mega328...
Working on layout now with my pitiful single sided board limit... |
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#862 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 29,048
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![]() ah, i thought you already had one.
if your going to make one, why not get a colour display from china for a couple of $? |
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#863 |
Solder Sloth
Join Date: Nov 2012
City & State: CO
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 8,121
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![]() Actually I plan to use only parts I have in my parts collection. I have a pile of HD44780 16x2 displays too, and thus don't think I actually need to buy anything, as far as I know right now.
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#864 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
City & State: Bucharest
My Country: Romania
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 37
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![]() Guys, out of the current types of El Cheapo ESR cap meters available on fleabay which one would you recommend? I need it to be able to measure at least up to 5000 uF and having some sort of charge protection would be a big bonus (not sure if any of those 5-10$ units have any protection).
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#865 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 29,048
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![]() the AY-AT type colour kit is probably the best.
it's got the most features, and being a kit you can fit a better voltage reference and faster crystal without desoldering the old ones. i'll just add that if you dont own an atmel programmer then spend 2$ on a USBasp as well - so you can keep the fiirmware up to date. |
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#866 |
Solder Sloth
Join Date: Nov 2012
City & State: CO
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 8,121
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![]() I just hope that the schematic I used has connections that match that of the ones supported in the code...
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#867 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 29,048
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![]() is the schematic the official one from the pdf?
if it is then be carefull - the pin numbers arent clearly marked if they are for the 28pin dip package or the 32pin smd one. |
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#868 |
Solder Sloth
Join Date: Nov 2012
City & State: CO
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 8,121
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![]() There are a bunch of schematic GIFs floating around, and yeah I am using the 28-pin version. Not sure which one is the "official" one anymore either... though it is on mikrocontroller.net ...
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#869 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 29,048
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#870 |
Solder Sloth
Join Date: Nov 2012
City & State: CO
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
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![]() Ah looks like figure 2.1 is what I'm using, close enough with the 16x2 LCD.
Just need to figure out how I want to attach the LCD, and which LCD from the pile I want to use (have both 2x7 and 1x14 pin orientation types of LCDs...) |
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#871 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 29,048
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![]() i hate those displays and binned a lot recently.
choose the one with a backlight and the best contrast. |
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#872 |
New Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
City & State: Sao Paulo
My Country: Brazil
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 2
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![]() Thanks stj for posting the "AY-AT", I install today and the font is bold and very small. different from your old version (SVN700).
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#873 |
New Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
City & State: Grovetown GA
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 9
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![]() OK here it is with my li-po mod and ISP header mod. The lipo is 1500mah and has protection circuitry built in. The second picture is how i wired the charger and boost converter in to the tester, I found this diagram online at this site- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1797074 My charger/boost converter was one piece so I cut a trace and separated the 2 the same way as this person did about 1/2 way down in this thread- https://www.jyetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1153
I also changed the resistor on the boost converter part to 100k and it output 6.5 volts. Now it's time to try out the firmware that stj cooked up for me! Is there a guide anywhere that shows how to use the makefile and compile custom code? |
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#874 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
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Posts: 29,048
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![]() throw the makefile into a text editor - it's full of notes
what's the output voltage of the boost convertor? just asking because your passing it through a 5v regulator that probably needs atleast 6v to function. Last edited by stj; 12-01-2017 at 10:32 PM.. |
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#875 |
New Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
City & State: Grovetown GA
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 9
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![]() it was originally a 9 volt converter, i changed a resistor and made it 6.5 volts
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#876 |
Solder Sloth
Join Date: Nov 2012
City & State: CO
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 8,121
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![]() I also really wonder about those HD44780 displays run write-only... I ended up writing some AVR code that does proper read/write loop and the update speed is quite snappy, was using this on my PSU project and it's fast enough to be about illegible while holding down a button for auto-repeat (press down=move by 1 (debounced in software), hold down 0.5 second = auto repeat by 1, fast.) I initially did it write-only to save a GPIO pin, simply couldn't get it to update fast...
As it was a PSU, it also had a voltmeter and ammeter. Both were updating in excess of 20fps, which is probably faster than one really can keep an eye on anyway and still be able to read it... Last edited by eccerr0r; 12-02-2017 at 03:03 AM.. |
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#877 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 29,048
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![]() i had the hitachi dev manual once,
you only use read to check the ready flag after a write. most people just use a delay equal to worst-case between writes and ignore the ready signal. |
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#878 |
New Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
City & State: Grovetown GA
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 9
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![]() I opened the makefile with a text editor. Actually I opened all the files with a text editor. When i was a child i was always taking things apart to see what was inside. I cann see how i can chane all kinds of configurations in the makefile, getting the makefile to generate the TransistorTester.eep and TransistorTester.hex files is where i'm lost. do i use something like winavr?
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#879 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 29,048
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![]() yes,
but you need to overwrite gcc with an older version - unless they fixed that now. |
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#880 |
Solder Sloth
Join Date: Nov 2012
City & State: CO
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 8,121
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![]() What version of gcc and other toolchain is recommended?
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