![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools |
![]() |
#1101 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 29,048
|
![]() i meant capacitors - most people only want the henry's of an inductor
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#1102 |
Solder Sloth
Join Date: Nov 2012
City & State: CO
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 8,121
|
![]() ESR of inductors is important too
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#1103 | |||
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 11,236
|
![]() Quote:
Also, I wonder if there's an updated version of the firmware, but for the stock 8 MHz crystal. Quote:
In any case, I still think it should be able to measure the inductance of the individual windings, one at a time. If not, then probably the inductance is too low. Quote:
![]() I thought they only have inductance and resistance from the windings... and maybe a slight hint of stray capacitance when the windings are close to other objects in the circuit?? But I guess at very high frequencies, the skin effect will make it appear as if the windings have overall higher resistance. Perhaps that's what you mean by ESR? |
|||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#1104 |
Solder Sloth
Join Date: Nov 2012
City & State: CO
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 8,121
|
![]() Yes...well equivalent series resistance I'm considering things that you don't see at DC.
Dunno. took an even "bigger" tapped inductor (one side of a transformer) and fed one side into transistortester and it gave me two resistors. Couldn't make heads or tails of it. Actually it's pretty funny what it did, not going to post results to add to suspense ![]() Warning: Don't go too big of an inductor, I think you might damage your transistortester, which would be the sole hint... |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#1105 | |
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
City & State: ----
My Country: Sweden
Line Voltage: 230v 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 5,523
|
![]() Quote:
M-firmware by Markus (username Madires on the eevblog forum) K-firmware by Karl-Heinz Kübbeler (username kubi48 on the Mikrocontroller forum) These can be compiled with any options and crystals you choose. Both I and STJ have posted a couple precompiled here, but then where is the fun in that? Much better to go crazy and do it all yourself ![]()
__________________
"The one who says it cannot be done should never interrupt the one who is doing it." |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#1106 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 29,048
|
![]() i do M builds for the TC1 with a rotary encoder and 20MHz if anybody wants it posted.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#1107 | ||
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 11,236
|
![]() Quote:
![]() Bookmarked for when I feel confident enough to upgrade mine some day. Bricking it would be a major setback for me in terms of being able to check out e-caps. Quote:
![]() Digital circuits was never my specialty. And programing/firmware/compiling... I always screw up somewhere and spend hours trying to do something simple. ![]() So I'll probably just have a look at the links you mentioned and see if there is something pre-compiled there (and hopefully with hand-holding detailed step-by-step instructions for the software-challenged, like myself. ![]() |
||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#1108 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2021
City & State: beirut
My Country: lebanon
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 45
|
![]() thank u
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#1109 |
Solder Sloth
Join Date: Nov 2012
City & State: CO
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 8,121
|
![]() I should figure out how to upgrade mine... build my own fw, etc. Too bad the one I have does not have the pins ported out on a 2x3 or 2x5 Atmel 0.1" header
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#1110 |
Solder Sloth
Join Date: Nov 2012
City & State: CO
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 8,121
|
![]() Curiosity... what's the word(and language) that the "U" comes from when the avrtransistortester displays voltage for Vf and Vbe? (It whimsically says Uf=0.700 or something for diodes, etc.)
I would have thought for an English port it should have V for Voltage. I guess this is a pet peeve that I need to change on my unit... |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#1111 |
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
City & State: ----
My Country: Sweden
Line Voltage: 230v 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 5,523
|
![]() Considering the title of the thread I didn't want Bop Parkers great ESR meter to feel left out!
So here it is with some nice new bright Lite-On LTS-5003AWC 7-segment LED's before and after ![]() Original LED's: Replacement LED's: |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#1112 |
Technician
Join Date: Feb 2007
City & State: Gundagai NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 177
|
![]() The "Blue2" ESR meter has that.
__________________
It is a good shrubbery. I like the laurels particularly... |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#1113 |
Technician
Join Date: Feb 2007
City & State: Gundagai NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 177
|
![]() Thanks Per. It's amazing how much brighter even cheap Chinese displays are, compared to what was available back in 1995 when I designed the original meter! 👍
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#1114 |
Solder Sloth
Join Date: Nov 2012
City & State: CO
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 8,121
|
![]() This is annoying:
I had a transistor that was shorted... stuck it in the avr transistortester... Went into cal mode! ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#1115 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 29,048
|
![]() lol - it shouldnt go directly into cal,
it should show a message and wait for confirmation with the button. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#1116 |
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
City & State: ----
My Country: Sweden
Line Voltage: 230v 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 5,523
|
![]() I compiled a new build of Karl-Heinz firmware from the new GIT repository a few days ago.
It works well on my GM328R, this time I only included a 20Mhz build. I also replaced the encoder and that fixed the bad behavior I described earlier in the thread with Madires firmware. I made a small post on eevblog about it if you're curious: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testge...41/#msg4259041 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#1117 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 29,048
|
![]() was the encoder blue?
i buy the light green ones - they seem better quality |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#1118 |
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
City & State: ----
My Country: Sweden
Line Voltage: 230v 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 5,523
|
![]() You can see a photo of the top of the encoder in my original build photo way back in this thread: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...6&d=1468518476
Here is how the bottom looks, it is light green, this is what was delivered with the DIY kit... |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#1119 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 29,048
|
![]() not seen those before,
the ones i refered to are all one colour. i think the blue has splines on the shaft, the light green has the half-moon shaft type. i call it that anyway ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#1120 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
City & State: Galway
My Country: Ireland
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 41
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
|
|