ESR meter upgrades

[stj]

that looks like aT3,
it should work on it.
put a 16MHz crystal on it - that will give it a good upgrade.

[bc989]

Its pretty hard to ID them, most T3 google images show the battery cables under the LCD, but there are still a couple of differences to mess it all up.

Anyhow, great! I'll likely test with the 8MHz first. And while waiting for the rotary encoder, can I go ahead and flash the test file first? Will basic functions still work with the std button?

[stj]

test file is o.k. but dont go into the menu - you will get stuck.

[bc989]

Just in case, I need to revert or reflash back to recover... are there any dump of the original factory default software/firmware that came with these T3/T4?

[stj]

there is this, but i dont think it's original
https://yadi.sk/d/yW8xa5NJgUo5z/LCR-T4(T3)

[GoNz0]

Hi all, is this one any good to get ? gm328rhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2016-EZM32...sAAOSwtJZXU~VA

or should I get the gm328a? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2015-versi...kAAOSwHnFV2EJw

Thanks.

[stj]

the 2016 328R looks good.
rotary encoder etc already fittted.
if they had put a programming header on it, it would have been perfect!

another good option is the banggood unit that has an optional case.
http://www.banggood.com/DIY-M12864-G...-p-997023.html

or the case may fit the ebay model.
i hope you notice they are both KITS you need to build.

[GoNz0]

Originally Posted by stj

the 2016 328R looks good.
rotary encoder etc already fittted.
if they had put a programming header on it, it would have been perfect!

another good option is the banggood unit that has an optional case.
http://www.banggood.com/DIY-M12864-G...-p-997023.html

or the case may fit the ebay model.
i hope you notice they are both KITS you need to build.

Yep so long as they come with destructions I am fine with soldering & would rather save the fiver along with an excuse to get the solder station out

Can either have a header fitted for programming should I need it later down the line?

initial use will be testing caps on my broken UPS.

Thanks for helping.

[stj]

you can put a header on with jump wires - unfortunatly they didnt route the tracks to any pads for one.

i'v said this to people before, but put a good 16MHz crystal on it.
you will increase the accuracy, and enable the crystal/resonator tester.
(needs a software upgrade.)

on that subject - if you dont have a programmer yet.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272041588746

[GoNz0]

Originally Posted by stj

you can put a header on with jump wires - unfortunatly they didnt route the tracks to any pads for one.

i'v said this to people before, but put a good 16MHz crystal on it.
you will increase the accuracy, and enable the crystal/resonator tester.
(needs a software upgrade.)

on that subject - if you dont have a programmer yet.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272041588746

So the bangood DIY M12864
USB Programmer
And what 16mhz crystal do you suggest -/+10ppm I saw a few pages back?

Thanks.

[stj]

yep, and not a full 49' type, a low profile one.

you can probably salvage one from some junk

[pfrcom]

Originally Posted by stj

the 2016 328R looks good.
rotary encoder etc already fittted.
if they had put a programming header on it, it would have been perfect!

another good option is the banggood unit that has an optional case.
http://www.banggood.com/DIY-M12864-G...-p-997023.html

or the case may fit the ebay model.
i hope you notice they are both KITS you need to build.

How difficult would the build be for an electronics amateur like myself ? (AKA how good are the instructions, if there are any)

[stj]

how should i know - i dont know your skills or equipment.

so what iron and experience do you have?

[pfrcom]

Soldering not the concern, rather assembly of components to PCB, what goes where

No need to respond further, found one of the reviewers had posted assembly video

[vinceroger69]

Originally Posted by pfrcom

Soldering not the concern, rather assembly of components to PCB, what goes where

No need to respond further, found one of the reviewers had posted assembly video

can you link the video? as i may look into this upgrade too many thanks.

[bc989]

Before I reprogram my T3, I traced the programming pad and found the RESET pad is not connected to the atmega328 reset pin. Instead it goes to pin 30 (rxd/pcint16/pd0) see attached pic.

Shouldn't the programming pad RESET be connected to pin 29 (RESET)?

[pfrcom]

Originally Posted by vinceroger69

can you link the video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSLW...ature=youtu.be

[vinceroger69]

Originally Posted by pfrcom

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSLW...ature=youtu.be

thanks theres some good videos on his page.

[stj]

Originally Posted by bc989

Before I reprogram my T3, I traced the programming pad and found the RESET pad is not connected to the atmega328 reset pin. Instead it goes to pin 30 (rxd/pcint16/pd0) see attached pic.

Shouldn't the programming pad RESET be connected to pin 29 (RESET)?

can you double-check those pads, they use that to program them after assembly.

[stj]

about that video - NEVER BEND THE FUCKING WIRES OVER.
it makes stuff much harder to remove again without damaging the pads.

damn i hate these amateur video's teaching people bad stuff.

and make sure you use 99% IPA to remove all the flux afterwards.
it may not seem important usually, but on something like this, it can effect the readings!