Dim Clock LCD on Jenn-Air wall oven

[bluto]

I actually fixed this bugger a while ago, but though it would document it now so someone else with the same problem might be able to Google this and save some $. I have a Jenn-Air electric wall oven with all digital controls. At some point the VFD display module began to get dim to the point it was unreadable. Some times it would come back to life but eventually faded out completely. After much teeth gnashing I determined the problem to be a bad capacitor. C3, a 68uf 35v was bad. It has been about 2 years now since replacing this capacitor and the clock is still going strong.

The clock module has the following numbers on it: 100-00695-20 CN 7601P483-60. The Maytag part number is 71001799. The part costs around $170. It may also be used on other Maytag made brands (Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Magic Chef, Kenmore, Whirlpool, etc).

The capacitor needed (C3) is a 68uf 35v, 105C, low esr cap. I recommend Panasonic FC series (Digikey p/n P10292-ND) capacitor, but any other brand that is good quality, low esr and rated for 105C will work. After removing the cap, clean up any electrolyte that may have leaked out of the bottom with a q-tip and alcohol. If your clock has a different value in C3, be sure to replace it with the same value as what was removed.

If you order from Digikey, the cost is $0.31 as of 6/2018. They do not have a minimum order at this time. Be sure to choose first class mail as the shipping method and the total cost will be around $8. I would recommend purchasing from badcaps.net, but TC does not stock a cap of this value.

It is usually not required to replace the other capacitors as described in some of the other posts in this thread. Try replacing C3 first to see if it solves the problem before attempting to replace any of the other caps.

Some people have reported finding a resistor being attached inline with C3 in what appears to be refurbished clock modules. These modules may have an 'R' at the end of the part number on the sticker. See picture here: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...&postcount=126

If your board has this resistor along with C3, it is safe to remove it and just replace C3 with a 68uf 35v cap as outlined above.

[japlytic]

Those capacitors look like Panasonic units - are they original or replacements?
Good repair job too.

[bluto]

Thanks! The originals were Nichicon [PL(M)? 105C]. The until was about 10 years old when it failed. The replacement panny's are shown in the pictures that I took today. 3 FCs and one NHG on the left side. I had to remove the microwave recently for some under cabinet lighting, so I opened up the oven again for some pictures.

[jeffschindler]

Thanks bluto for the great post for the problem/repair! I had the same issue and now I have fixed it with minimal cost rather than $170 for new board, which is what I would have done. I bought new caps from Digi-Key, whose web site was great for getting the exact caps you need. I replaced all 4 caps and the unit works fine again.
Best Regards,
<>< Jeff

[paul gobat]

Great post because I'm in the same boat. I need to replace the capacitors on the board and now I'm wondering what sizes they all are. I know C3 is 35V and 68 mFd but don't have any idea about the others. Can anyone help?

[bluto]

Welcome to the badcaps forums!

I guess I should have put all of that information in my original post. So after one more peek inside the oven, here are the specs and part numbers to order from Digikey. All part numbers listed are for Panasonic FC series capacitors. FM series part number shown in parenthesis where the FC series cap is out of stock at the time of this post.


On the clock module:

C1 & C4 470uF 35v P10301-ND (or the FM series: P12400-ND)
C3 68uF 35v P10292-ND
C7 22uF 50v P10318-ND

On my oven I also replaced the two caps on the power supply/relay board as a precaution. They were as follows:

3300uf 16v P10260-ND [filter cap] (or the FM series: P12373-ND)
47uf 50v P10321-ND [the only other cap on the board]

Of course the power supply/relay board could vary if you have a different model oven (gas for example).

Please update this thread if this information is useful and you are able to repair your clock module.

[rogerstkr]

Thanks for the repair info. I had already replaced the clock module on my 8 year old Jenn-Air Radiant Range with Convection Oven (Model SCE30600) about 4 years ago. I wasn't about to add another $160 to the range's total cost by purchasing yet another complete module.

I replaced just the 68UF 35V ELECT FC RADIAL capacitor in position C3 as suggested in this thread. Ordered cap from DIGI-KEY (P10292-ND $0.28 + $8.13 for ground shipping) since I couldn't find it locally. The bad cap registered around 34UF on my meter. No signs of external leakage or damage. Put everything together and success!

[bluto]

Glad to hear that your clock is visible again. You could probably re-cap your 1st clock module if you still have it and put it on ebay! Just a tip, parcel post on digikey is usually cheaper than UPS ground.

[Edcap]

Hey Bluto I have to thank you also for posting you original message more than a year ago now. I had the same exact issue of a dimmed display on my Jenn-Air display and this fix worked like a charm! C3 cap replaced just saved me 170 bucks! Glad I decided to do a quick search online to see if anyone had the same issues! Can't thank you enough! Where can I send you a Virtual payment for the virtual troubleshooting ;-) j/k!

[bluto]

glad to hear the there are still plenty of these out there that are repairable!

[Professor Peach]

I assume 2497 measns week24, 1997.
Amazing to see such a lot of t/h components this late-on.
AFAIK, Robertshaw are now part of Invensys, after combining with Barber-Colman, Satchwell, et-al.

[bluto]

Yes the oven was manufactured in 1997. Still going strong! But then again it has only been turned on about 15 times in the last six years that I have lived here

What is a t/h component?

[Krankshaft]

Through hole components.

[bluto]

Right. I knew that. Just never have seen it written like that.

[PCBONEZ]

Couple weeks ago I fixed a controller board for a fridge that was manufactured in 2001.
It was also all through hole.
.
Same-same with a compressor board from 2005.
.
Perhaps when they have lots of room through hole is still cheaper.
.

[Professor Peach]

Originally Posted by bluto

But then again it has only been turned on about 15 times in the last six years that I have lived here

You're not a great one for cooking then!

Originally Posted by bluto

What is a t/h component?

Yes, that is, indeed, through-hole, sorry for the confusion.

[Krankshaft]

Originally Posted by PCBONEZ

Perhaps when they have lots of room through hole is still cheaper.

It's kind of bizarre since after etching they still have to drill all those through holes for the components with a computer aided drill.

Maybe it's cheaper because the SMD placement machinery costs more than their coarser through hole counterparts?

[Krankshaft]

Originally Posted by PCBONEZ

Perhaps when they have lots of room through hole is still cheaper.

It's kind of bizarre since after etching they still have to drill all those through holes for the components with a computer aided drill.

You'd figure that extra step would cost more.

Maybe it's cheaper because the SMD placement machinery is more costly to operate or costs more upfront than their coarser through hole counterparts?

[PCBONEZ]

Small companies might not even have machinery. They may outsource the PCB manufacture and use Chinese girls fingers for component placement & soldering. I imagine they can pay a lot of Chinese girls for a long time for the cost of one high-end machine.
[That scenario is probably where the odd-ball brand 'DEER' based PSU's come from.]

Alternately there are CAD machines that are 30-40 years old that can't do high density high accuracy drilling jobs, but work fine and reduce the initial investment.

During my short stint as a Millwright [2002-ish] one of the machines I maintained was a drilling machine from the 1940's. It was originally manual but had been custom modified in-house several times over the years. By the time I had to deal with it it had hydraulics, controlled by pneumatics, controlled by PLC's, controlled by [a very simple] computer via an LCD/button panel.
There was NO documentation on how this thing worked but other than an occasional oil or air leak it never had problems.
.

[Professor Peach]

Yes, but this is Invensys, a huge corporate company.