Dim Clock LCD on Jenn-Air wall oven

[rsico]

Thanks everone for your technical help. I followed the above procedure for replacing the capacitors and it worked perfectly.

[rdevers]

Thanks for the alternative to below:

Called Jenn-air dealer for help they said could order part "if and when off back order status" at $250 plus s&h, with half up front.

[rustanj]

Thanks a bunch Bluto!!! Yes people are still googling for other options instead of paying the outrageous price of a new board. 2 bucks and change for all four caps plus shipping sure beats $120 (cheapest I found online but was still questioning if it would be an exact match or not) Now I shouldnt have to worry about the wrong board either since I have no doubts as to being able to get the repair done and working properly again. Thanks again!!!!

[delaware74b]

Bluto, thanks to you for your cap list on this board. My boss' wife asked me to replace the clock board in her Jenn-Air range last night. I remembered seeing this article about the board. I had to get the model number of the range and it was the same one as yours.

I went through my stock of caps and luckily enough, I had all 5 for the clock board. The 68uF read only 17uF with ESR of 5! It now has Panny FC's.

Boss' wife was surprised when I turned the breaker back on and the clock reappeared for the first time in 2 years. Present cost of replacement board $175USD+ S/H. Cost of 5 caps I had on hand $2.

Many thanks to Badcaps.net and all members!

[bluto]

I bet your boss thinks you are a genius now

[CC25]

Bump to an old thread... The wonders of the internet and google brought me here. First, my hats off to you all for posting the how to and the follow up confirmations of individual successes. It gave me the courage to try.... and fail?

Bought the part from digikey, soldered it in, and at the post installation test, the clock came on very dimly, and there was a faint smell of smoke. I took the panel apart to find the capacitor top, domed and was very warm Is it possible I got a bad capacitor? I have already risked the thirty for cents on a reorder of the part....

Thank you!

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by CC25

Bought the part from digikey, soldered it in, and at the post installation test, the clock came on very dimly, and there was a faint smell of smoke. I took the panel apart to find the capacitor top, domed and was very warm Is it possible I got a bad capacitor? I have already risked the thirty for cents on a reorder of the part....

Did you put the cap in backwards? Electrolytic caps have polarity (positive and negative). If you put it in backwards, you will hear a pop and the cap will bloat.

Also, did you order the correct cap in terms of capacitance and voltage rating? Did you check the cap to make sure it is what you ordered?

While it is possible that you got a bad cap, the two above scenarios are more likely.

[CC25]

Thank you for the reply. I didn't know there was a direction of flow for capacitors. That said, I didn't check that and most likely did not install it correctly. Hopefully, I didn't cook anything else on the board. Based on cap markings, which way is correct? I did get the proper cap.

thanks again..

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by CC25

Based on cap markings, which way is correct?

See

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpos...46&postcount=8

[CC25]

Thank you very much. When it comes in in a day or two, I'll have no excuse for failure!

[CC25]

Based on a comparison to the photo on page 1, and the link you posted, the capacitor was installed backwards. My college student son (engineering student) insisted that there was no right or wrong way to do this. I am billing him the 34 cents for this error!!!



Ok, so what are my chances of board failure due to this error? did I burn something else out?

[Th3_uN1Qu3]

Originally Posted by CC25

Ok, so what are my chances of board failure due to this error? did I burn something else out?

Since you said the clock came on dimly and stayed on as the capacitor smoked, your board is fine. Just install a new capacitor in the proper orientation and your clock will be back.

[seanc]

If that's a picture of your board, it's definitely backwards.

[Longbow]

Originally Posted by CC25

My college student son (engineering student) insisted that there was no right or wrong way to do this.

Which institution of higher learning does he attend, by the way?

[CC25]

Originally Posted by Longbow

Which institution of higher learning does he attend, by the way?

Success. Part came today and we're back in action.

He's a Case Western Reserve Bio Med student. He did get a "B" in intro to circuits.

Thanks all!

[guitarman66]

Originally Posted by bluto

I actually fixed this bugger a while ago, but though it would document it now so someone else with the same problem might be able to Google this and save some $. I have a Jenn-Air electric wall oven with all digital controls. At some point the VFD display module began to get dim to the point it was unreadable. Some times it would come back to life but eventually faded out completely. After much teeth gnashing I determined the problem to be a bad capacitor. C3 a 68uf 35v was bad. The was a very small dot of electrolyte on the board below it. I ended up replacing all 4 capacitors on the clock module while I was at it. It has been about 2 years now and it is still going strong. Now I just need to get around to replacing the 2 caps on the power supply/relay board before they roast and burn out the whole works!

The clock module has the following numbers on it: 100-00695-20 CN 7601P483-60. The maytag part number is 71001799. The part costs around $170. May also be used on other Maytag made brands (Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Magic Chef, Kenmore, Whirlpool, etc).

Pics attached:

Hi Nice work how did you move the display out of the way to solder the parts? please post pictures....

[bluto]

The glass vfd display piece was not an impediment to replacing all 4 capacitors on the board. The capacitors are far enough to the side of the board that they are not covered by the display. Removing the plastic shroud is all that is necessary. I don't really feel like opening up the oven again to take a picture.

[P10292]

Originally Posted by bluto

Welcome to the badcaps forums!

I guess I should have put all of that information in my original post. So after one more peek inside the oven, here are the specs and part numbers to order from Digikey. All part numbers listed are for Panasonic FC series capacitors. FM series part number shown in parenthesis where the FC series cap is out of stock at the time of this post.


On the clock module:

C1 & C4 470uF 35v P10301-ND (or the FM series: P12400-ND)
C3 68uF 35v P10292-ND
C7 22uF 50v P10318-ND

On my oven I also replaced the two caps on the power supply/relay board as a precaution. They were as follows:

3300uf 16v P10260-ND [filter cap] (or the FM series: P12373-ND)
47uf 50v P10321-ND [the only other cap on the board]

Question: are FC and FM series interchangeable? it looks like FM series have longer life at 105 degree C. So could I all use FM series instead? (I do notice that ripple current and impedance are different between FC and FM series, does that matter?) Thank you for your help.

[marcottefamily]

Hi - I ordered and replaced the caps as instructed. The panel lights up now, but I'm getting a beeping sound with FC displayed. Any advice? Thank you.

[bluto]

@P10292: In this case FC and FM should work the same.

@marcottefamily: You should verify that all the connectors were re-installed properly. If it still won't work, post some pictures of both sides of the board for our experts to look at.