Dim Clock LCD on Jenn-Air wall oven

[Longbow]

The code FC means "communication error between boards". Mostly likely the flexible plastic connector is not plugged in correctly to the timer board, or the wired connector is in the wrong position. Pressing "Cancel/Off" will stop the beeping, but if the error is still present the beeping will continue. Re-check your connectors. The flexible cable is a bit difficult to install.

[tshirk]

My sincere thanks to everyone who posted on this forum. I just repaired my Jenn-Air model SVD48600B stove for essentially 0.34 cents. The stove was experiencing the symptoms of very dim clock and no temperature display. I ordered the capacitors from Digi-Key Corp. (www.digikey.com) on Friday and they were delivered on Monday (today). This was a very easy repair. Though I replaced all four capacitors on the clock control board only the C3 capacitor required replacement. The soldering iron I used was a Black & Decker C1500S dual temp. With it's pencil point this is an ideal circuit board soldering iron. For the money, (less than $20) the Stahl Tools SSVT Variable Temperature Soldering Station is another good choice. Also useful is a desoldering bulb (Model:64-2086 Radio Shack) or desoldering braid to aid removal of circuit board solder holding the capacitors to the board.

[thebrainfarm]

Thanks for posting Bluto and Webtalk for your very concise pics.
I was surprised at how common a problem this is.
Thankfully I have all of my repair instructions in this forum.
Love the net!

[arrowdad]

I have a JennAir SVE47500 oven. The display is extremely dim for the clock; the temp and other controls don't display at all. I think I need to replace the caps, but when I look at them they look OK. They are not bubbled on the top. Could they still be bad? Attached is a picture of the board, if that is helpful to anyone. Thanks in advance for your help.

arrowdad

[Th3_uN1Qu3]

Yes, they could have dried out without bloating. Replacing them should fix the issue.

[arrowdad]

Thanks for your quick reply. I will try to get the caps replaced and see what happens.

[bluto]

On mine the small 68uf was bad only one totally bad (causing the problem). It is so small that it did not bulge. There was a small dot of electrolyte underneath it. I replaced all the other caps at the same time as a precaution. But the path of least resistance would be to just do the one.

[primeq]

Originally Posted by bluto

I actually fixed this bugger a while ago, but though it would document it now so someone else with the same problem might be able to Google this and save some $.

Bluto - you saved me $100 (or $170) . Some guy on eBay is offering repair of these units for $100 a pop. Good margin I think.

C3 was in fact bad on my board. I never had a 68uF/35V lying around so I tried a 100uF/50V and it works well (fair warning - I tested the 100uF and it measured 100uF, so you mileage may vary).

[IthinkIcan]

Another thanks to Bluto for the repair instructions and everyone else’s trials and tribulations. My situation:
Jenn-Air JJW9630BAW Double Oven
Clock # 71003401 with dim readout (second time in 9 years).

C4* 470uF 35v
C3 68uF 35v
C7 22uF 50v
*= No access to C1 soldering points as the display is in the way (possibly guitarman66 comment)…no matter, didn’t need to replace to repair it.

I picked up all 3 pieces for $3 at my local electronics store, and ½ hour from shutting off the breaker to turning the breaker back on. I’m uncomfortable with electronics but capable of soldering (I could have just as easily put the cap in backwards like the other guy).

You helped save me $150+…THANK YOU!

[ratdude747]

this thread deserves an award... maybe a sticky?

[bluto]

@IthinkIcan: Congratulations on the repair!

@primeq: It looks like the ebay repair deal is for an old style mechanical clock wherein the refurbisher procured a quantity of NOS parts to accomplish the repair. Although I have seen some examples of our clocks on ebay that were refurb'd. Or more like fubar'd? There is a picture of one earlier in the thread where the replaced C3 was sticking out like a sore thumb.

@RD: Its currently #6 with the most views under "Other Devices". If only Dell W1700 LCD Rev00 were moved to "Computer Displays", I would have a crack at the top spot

[ratdude747]

Originally Posted by bluto

@RD: Its currently #6 with the most views under "Other Devices". If only Dell W1700 LCD Rev00 were moved to "Computer Displays", I would have a crack at the top spot

well, so what?

thats not what makes the thread notable.

what does is the number of people who were not orginally members being helped by it is.

Especially considering it is not a device normally thought of as recappible, makes this a rather unique thread. LCD's, yeah, most do need a recap eventually. Wall ovens on the other hand are a tad obscure not what comes to mind as "needs a recap".

way to got Bluto for a great thread!

[buni]

Well, I tried it too -- went ahead and replaced all 4 of the caps --- and now nothing works. (Before, I could at least operate things with the buttons even tho I couldn't see what I was doing.) Who knows what I did wrong - it's my first time trying something like this (tho I am very handy). Maybe I injured the board somehow when I was putting it back together? I dunno.

But that said, I wouldn't have been happy replacing the board without trying - so I guess it's all part of the game. Only problem I had is I foolishly attempted the repair while some cookies were "resting" for 2 hours -- and I ended up having to go to a friend's to bake all the cookies.

Plan ahea . . .
.............d!

Thx for your good info - it was, at least interesting, and I learned something even tho my efforts failed. I now know I can replace the board. So -- that's the next task. I'm going to buy a used one off ebay (guaranteed)- $75 -- hopefully it will work. Not sure I'm willing to sink a couple hundred $$ for a new board on an older range. Time will tell.

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by buni

Well, I tried it too -- went ahead and replaced all 4 of the caps --- and now nothing works.

1) Caps have polarity (positive and negative). Check to see that you put it in right.

2) Check your soldering. Give the caps a gentle tug. They should be held in firmly.

3) Post a clear focused picture of your work and maybe we can tell you if the solder is good or not. See my sig file below for instructions.

[BobDel]

Hi All, great thread, my stove display went dark about 5 years ago and drives me nuts. The caps from DigiKey arrived today and hopefully by tomorrow I will be able to see what my stove is actually doing for the first time in awhile. Thanks for all the info!
Bob

[bvig]

Thank you for all the great information in this thread. If you are reading this and afraid to replace the badcap, don't be. You can do it. Just be aware of the positive and negative sides of the caps (see video below)

I moved into a house which had a "Dim display" Jenn-Air double oven model JJW9630AAW.

1. Purchased a cap from Fry's Electronics for replacement of C3 cap. Used 100uF 35v (High Temp) 105 deg.

Mfr: NTE, Model: VHT100M35, FRYS.com #1005393, UPC: 768249103936

2. Purchased solder iron ~$15, 35Watt cheapest version
3. Purchased solder ~$3
4. Turned off power to Oven from breaker panel
5. Removed oven faceplace (see other pictures in previous threads). I took digital picture of board before I did anything (just in case for reference).
6. Used sharpie to mark back side of C3
7. Watched youtube videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCSNWi3UHf4 "Cap Replacement"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ieoM_40nRVs "How to solder"

8. Removed bad cap, added new cap w/ negative side matching other caps
9. Bingo, works like a charm

[PCBONEZ]

NTE are rebranded generic Chinese junk.
It will last a while but you'll be doing it again.
.

[BobK]

I had the same prob. with my Jenn-air wall mount oven Model # W156.
It has a slightly different PCM board than what has been dicussed here but I thought I'd try to recap it.

The problems were the digital readout was going dim, at times needing a "TAP" to come back on.

Finally the readout went blank and didn't come back on.



here is the oven.




The digital readout after removal from the oven.












The touch screen buttons are connected to the board via this ribbon. It simply pulls out to disconnect.





The date code reads 9223 which equals 1992, week 23 of the year.








Here are my soldering jobs. Except for the 1st cap I replaced(guess which one) The soldering job looks o.k.















I replaced all 5 of the caps that were on the board. The 2 large ones are rated at 105c 1000uf at 35v. the smaller cap by the pins on the right side is 105c, 0.47uf at 50v





2nd of 3 of the 105c,0.47uf, 50v cap






3 of 3 of the 105c,0.47uf, 50v cap on the left and one cap rated at 105c, 47uf at 35v on the right.





Old cap. All 5 had no signs of leakage or bulging.









So I reinstalled everything and it works great!

Total fix cost...$3.23 in caps,$2.80 shipping via the postal service. Got the parts from Digi-Key
www.digikey.com
The cheapest replacement board was $260 and the most expensive was about $360.00
I thought spending $3.23 for caps was worth a try. I had nothing to loose and at the least $257 to gain.


The wife is back in the kitchen where she belongs



I Just want to thank the board for the great info.




Bob.

[olamp]

I just did this repair before finding this website. If you look at each cap while it's mounted you will see a heavy black line on the board next to the negative stripe on the cap indicating polarity. Making sure these two indicators match up when installing the new cap makes it goofproof.

[davnjax]

I attempted to replace the C3 capacitor in my jenn air ww27430p double oven. Before I did the "repair", the clock display was visible and I could use the timer and ovens. After my "repair", I get nothing. No display at all and there are no beeps when I try to press the buttons to start an oven. The capacitor I put in was from digikey 68uf 35v. I bought more than one capacitor because my daughter's range has the same problem. I get the same readings with an ohm meter on my board as I get from a capacitor I have not installed. Any suggestions how I trouble shoot this? I was so excited to fix this oven for a reasonable price. I have had a few circuitry classes when I was working on my comp sci degree(years ago, I'm now retired so you know it's been a while) Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. (I'm new to the forum) Thanks