Dim Clock LCD on Jenn-Air wall oven

[bluto]

Post some pictures. It may be possible to see what is wrong. Also double check the obvious things like making sure the connectors are all securely connected and oriented in the right direction.

[davnjax]

I am new to this forum. I replaced the C3 capacitor in my Jenn Air wall oven board (modelww27430p). Before the replacement, the oven would work even though there was no display to show the temp, etc. The clock displayed dimly. After the repair I can't get oven to even start, nothing beeps when I press the buttons to start a function and no clock. I tested the extra 68uf 35v capacitor (purchased from DigiKey) and get the same ohm reading with both the unused capacitor and the one on the board so it would seem that the one on the board is connected. Any suggestions on what I can do next to fix this issue? I purchased all the capacitors listed in one of the first messages in this thread. I am confident of the polarity on the capacitor as the orientation is the same as it was originally.

[ben7]

Originally Posted by davnjax

I am new to this forum. I replaced the C3 capacitor in my Jenn Air wall oven board (modelww27430p). Before the replacement, the oven would work even though there was no display to show the temp, etc. The clock displayed dimly. After the repair I can't get oven to even start, nothing beeps when I press the buttons to start a function and no clock. I tested the extra 68uf 35v capacitor (purchased from DigiKey) and get the same ohm reading with both the unused capacitor and the one on the board so it would seem that the one on the board is connected. Any suggestions on what I can do next to fix this issue? I purchased all the capacitors listed in one of the first messages in this thread. I am confident of the polarity on the capacitor as the orientation is the same as it was originally.

Check to make sure all the connectors are connected up tightly.

[davnjax]

I have reconnected and all seem to be tightly coupled. I even had a friend check to see if he could find something easy that I had missed on the connections. My first reaction is that the ribbon cable isn't connected but that seems tight as well. The oven light on the exterior input panel does control the oven light, not sure if that goes through ribbon cable and board.

[ben7]

Originally Posted by davnjax

I have reconnected and all seem to be tightly coupled. I even had a friend check to see if he could find something easy that I had missed on the connections. My first reaction is that the ribbon cable isn't connected but that seems tight as well. The oven light on the exterior input panel does control the oven light, not sure if that goes through ribbon cable and board.

Maybe you have a bad solder joint somewhere on the board.

[davnjax]

The capacitor seems tight as do the other connections on the board. I'm wondering if my problem is the ribbon cable because that connects the board to the touch panel. How do I know that the cable is well seated (pushed far enough in)? Also, is there a fuse that I might have popped because I'm thinking I disconnected or connected when the power was on once. I have attempted to attach a picture of the soldier joints. The joints aren't as flat
on the board as the originals - is that my problem? Is there a way I can get them to flow to the board better?
Thanks, Jackie

[ben7]

Originally Posted by davnjax

The capacitor seems tight as do the other connections on the board. I'm wondering if my problem is the ribbon cable because that connects the board to the touch panel. How do I know that the cable is well seated (pushed far enough in)? Also, is there a fuse that I might have popped because I'm thinking I disconnected or connected when the power was on once. I have attempted to attach a picture of the soldier joints. The joints aren't as flat
on the board as the originals - is that my problem? Is there a way I can get them to flow to the board better?
Thanks, Jackie

Ah! no wonder why it isn't working, you broke a copper trace.

[davnjax]

where is the broken copper trace (trying to learn, not questioning your response). Does this mean I just anty up and buy a new board? I'd really like a working oven even if I have to pay the price. And, how do I avoid breaking a copper trace - I want to fix my daughter's oven and not mess it up like I did mine
Thanks, Jackie

[ben7]

Originally Posted by davnjax

where is the broken copper trace (trying to learn, not questioning your response). Does this mean I just anty up and buy a new board? I'd really like a working oven even if I have to pay the price. And, how do I avoid breaking a copper trace - I want to fix my daughter's oven and not mess it up like I did mine
Thanks, Jackie

Here it is. Just use a thin piece of wire (like from a component lead) to bridge the gap there, and solder it in good. That should fix your problems!

[bluto]

Some more advice that is given often on this site: Find some other electronic device that is no longer working and practice soldering on it. Remove some of the components and re-solder them back in place. Your joints should look like all the others. Once you are more comfortable with your soldering skills, then you can make another attempt on the piece that you are trying to fix.

Try watching some youtube video videos on soldering too!

[ratdude747]

Originally Posted by bluto

Try watching some youtube video videos on soldering too!

I have a few good ones on my channel I made a while back:

Capacitor installation: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Op-UQLcH5Rc&feature=plcp

Desoldering braid usage: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2L4iv_m0ZgE&feature=plcp

Radio shack desoldering iron usage: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bt5liP59jBY&feature=plcp

There is another method I like using a thin metal pick... sometime I'll have to make that video using my special "solder cam" rig I built.

[davnjax]

Thanks for the advice. I have bridged over the bad copper trace. Now the top oven is working but no display or lower oven function. I'm wondering if the ribbon cable is not seated quite right. Great advice on practicing on an old board and watching you tube videos. I'm sure practice will help. I'm not ready to give up so will try what you've suggested.

I'm retired now and used to have the benefit of working with wonderfully talented technical people that could point me in the right direction to fix/resolve problems. This forum is wonderful, thanks so much.
Jackie

[bluto]

The solder joint on the other side of the capacitor doesn't look too good either. You might want to touch it up too. Hopefully doing that will bring life back to your clock.

[davnjax]

Thanks to this forum my oven now has a display, etc. This was wonderful. Now I'm wondering how I could figure out if there is a bad capacitor in my other jenn air oven. I can't adjust the temp on that oven. That oven doesn't get as hot as it should. There are steps to input and bump the temp by 5 degree increments but they don't work. Jenn Air says I need a new control board so for now I'm setting the temp 20 degrees higher than I want to circumvent that problem.

[ben7]

Originally Posted by davnjax

Thanks to this forum my oven now has a display, etc. This was wonderful. Now I'm wondering how I could figure out if there is a bad capacitor in my other jenn air oven. I can't adjust the temp on that oven. That oven doesn't get as hot as it should. There are steps to input and bump the temp by 5 degree increments but they don't work. Jenn Air says I need a new control board so for now I'm setting the temp 20 degrees higher than I want to circumvent that problem.

Are you sure the heating element is not worn out?

Open it up and have a look inside

[davnjax]

I had the local appliance repair company try to "fix" the oven. He has a good reputation and has been great on other things. He called Jenn Air when he was working on the oven because it would not register the temp increase he was trying to enter. Jenn Air tech said it needs a new board. I had installed a new thermostat and element prior to that service call but it made no change in the oven temp so I think we can rule out a bad element. The oven is in my vacation rental, when I get an open day I'll open the cover and check for bulged capacitors, etc so your comment to open it up and have a look is a point well taken. Thanks!!

[jmcbrg]

I also have the dimming LCD problem, Jenn Air SVD48600W model. Mine continued to get worse and worse, just like everybody else's but before seeing this forum I ordered a replacement clock module. I replaced it, it worked for about a week then that one went completely dim. The place where I bought the module sent me a replacement at no cost, but before I put it in I wanted to see if anyone knows of any other reason this could be happening. I realize the module they sent could have been faulty (it looked for all the world like a used piece; even felt a bit greasy as though it had come out of a different range rather than new). All the functions still work fine, controls the stove, everything beeps as it should, but the clock is dimmed out completely. Is there an additional board that I should be investigating?
Thanks
--Jeff

[ben7]

Originally Posted by jmcbrg

I also have the dimming LCD problem, Jenn Air SVD48600W model. Mine continued to get worse and worse, just like everybody else's but before seeing this forum I ordered a replacement clock module. I replaced it, it worked for about a week then that one went completely dim. The place where I bought the module sent me a replacement at no cost, but before I put it in I wanted to see if anyone knows of any other reason this could be happening. I realize the module they sent could have been faulty (it looked for all the world like a used piece; even felt a bit greasy as though it had come out of a different range rather than new). All the functions still work fine, controls the stove, everything beeps as it should, but the clock is dimmed out completely. Is there an additional board that I should be investigating?
Thanks
--Jeff

Nope, there still is an issue with the board! Have you ever soldered before?

@davnjax:
If the caps aren't bulged its still a good idea to replace them, they can go bad without bulging!

[jmcbrg]

Yes I have, but as I say I already have another replacement board in hand from the company I bought the first one from; I was just hesitant to install it for fear the actual problem was on some power supply board earlier in-line and it would just pop this one as well... at this point I'd just as soon replace the whole thing and be done. The first one I got from them was suspicious to start with, it wasn't in a box and it felt a bit greasy, so I wondered if it had come out of a used range somewhere. When I mentioned that on the phone the woman said, no, we would never d that and all our parts come new in the box. I told her this one hadn't and that it failed, she said I'll send another right out, she did and this one indeed was in a box and new. So I'll give it a shot.

[bluto]

I am sure it is possible that there is something else afoot.... But as you said yourself, the oven works fine, all controls are functional, just a dimmed out display. This matches the symptoms that my oven had and just about everyone else that posted in this thread. I don't think anyone here claims to be an whirlpool-based oven expert, so I don't think you are going to get an alternative explanation for this issue on this forum. If you are worried about this second replacement, why not gamble $ to replace the capacitor on your original clock? You really don't have anything to lose. If it works you can send the replacements back to this shady sounding company and get the $$$ that you spent on it back.