Dim Clock LCD on Jenn-Air wall oven

[Newb2014]

Ben7, No error code on the display. Hopefully I can find time to tear into it this weekend for a closer look and post a pic of the fan motor.. Thanks!

[rajamar]

Originally Posted by bluto

Welcome to the badcaps forums!

I guess I should have put all of that information in my original post. So after one more peek inside the oven, here are the specs and part numbers to order from Digikey. All part numbers listed are for Panasonic FC series capacitors. FM series part number shown in parenthesis where the FC series cap is out of stock at the time of this post.


On the clock module:

C1 & C4 470uF 35v P10301-ND (or the FM series: P12400-ND)
C3 68uF 35v P10292-ND
C7 22uF 50v P10318-ND

On my oven I also replaced the two caps on the power supply/relay board as a precaution. They were as follows:

3300uf 16v P10260-ND [filter cap] (or the FM series: P12373-ND)
47uf 50v P10321-ND [the only other cap on the board]

Of course the power supply/relay board could vary if you have a different model oven (gas for example).

Please update this thread if this information is useful and you are able to repair your clock module.

First - thanks to you and everyone who has contributed their success (and failure) stories.

I'm going to have a go at the cap replacements and basically need to know if the Panasonic FC, FM, and FR series are interchangeable in this application. Don't know much about component level specs, but the C3 68uF 35v have lifetimes of 1000, 2000, and 5000 hours for FC, FM, and FR respectively. FM and FR both have 130 mOhm impedence and 455 mA ripple current - FC has 350 mOhm impedence and 290 mA ripple current. All other specs appear to be the same.

Any reason not to use the FRs?

[WestLinnN8]

Hi All,

I am having the dim display issue and want to be one of the people to post a success story, but need a little help.

As you can see my Jenn Air unit (model w256w) has two circuit boards stacked on one another.

Please see attached photos.

Which is the capacitor that I need to replace?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[WestLinnN8]

Here's a photo of the other side.

[goontron]

i would replace all 3 of them, but the most likely culprit ( without the schematic in front of me ) is C11 in the second post.

[WestLinnN8]

Awesome! I'll give it a go, and your right might as well do all three. Thanks!

[Claude]

I have a jenn air model w276 and have the same problem with the temperature reading very dim. I had the two large cap changed and
still the same. Did the cap 11 solve your problem. Thanks in advance for your help. Claude

[Michaeljwyo]

Well folks, another one fixed thanks to this forum. I wish I had done it years ago. My mother-in-law's Jenn Air double oven has been like this for several years and one day I decided to google it and this post came up. I really didn't think it could be that simple but it was! Took me less than a half hour from start to finish. I didn't have time to order a replacement cap for C3 so I just went with what I had....which was a 47uf / 35V and that worked just great! It still seems like it could be brighter but then again I think the LCD display is probably a little worn....it's 20 years old for pete's sake! At least it's visible now.
Thanks so much!

[tdhawk]

Wow. Thank you bluto! Replaced the C3 on my Jenn-Air JJW9527CAB and everything is back to normal. The temp display had been dimming for several weeks and finally went out completely. The time display had been dimming much more gradually. Now both look great.

[arthu1]

Hey, many thanks for the heads up on the oven display. My second display had just gone out and after reading your post, I got the caps and replaced in both my old board and the one that just dimmed out on me and both are working great. Thanks again

[russw]

Have purchased replacement caps for Jenn Air SVE47600W downdraft slide-in range. Display began dimming years ago and later blacked out completely except that it would become barely visible after baking something in the oven for 15 minutes or longer. All controls worked anyway so that was it's state of being for years. Always a problem if there was a power failure in trying to blindly reset the clock.

Then years later a new problem developed. The oven fan would come on and the oven light would go on simultaneously and after a while a beep would sound. Again, since there was no display I was unable to determine if there was a fault code. This condition became such an annoyance I eventually shut off the power to the range at the circuit breaker box. Recently I decided that the oven and cooktop were going to be needed and I checked the service manual as to accessing the control module and discovered that a rodent had apparently chewed through the first 3 traces in the "ribbon" cable and possible trace 4. This is the ribbon cable to connector J3 and the trace 0,1,2, and 3.

I should also mention that several of the membrane pad control buttons were non functioning at that point in time. About the only oven function that worked was the Clean and maybe Broil. Half the number pad button didn't function either.

I've had to order a new replacement membrane keypad control panel since the "ribbon" cable seems to be a difficult hassle to try to scrape off insulating plastic coating to solder in jumper wiring. I though I could try to use a hot needle to make a pin hole through good sections of the traces and try to solder in jumper leads. I hate those cheap trace ribbon cables.

Anyway the incomplete circuity leads between the clock control module and the membrane touch panel in my situation might indicate that others having issues with button function may have a poor connection at the connector J3 among the first four trace leads. BTW, the range is white but the replacement touch panel is only available in Black today, so if all goes well I've have a Black touch panel with while burner knobs and white trim and oven door.

[digit1]

My experience so far-
I was thrilled to find this forum thread- my jenn aire w30400w surprised my wife one day by beeping and showing F1 on the display. The oven was not in use at the time. Then, over a few hours, the display dimmed down and then out.
She went ahead and used the oven blind to make pizza, and it works.

Since then I opened things up and poked around. My first thought was bad transformer. After unplugging the control board and reconnecting it, I found the board would light up and then dim down and then out all over again. I was pricing boards and reading the troubleshooting manual, which said F1 meant either bad J2 harness or bad Power Relay Board.

Then google brought me to this forum and thread. Very happily I ordered 6 new caps from digikey. This morning I swapped all caps out on the control board and relay board.

It seems like the first time I reconnected everything, it acted just as before- display dimmed down to eventually 100% off. The oven still works. Even at it's brightest after the repair, the amber display to the right was barely legible.

I read through the entire thread and checked my capacitor orientation and tested for burnt traces- everything looks good. I tested for continuity from each side of the new caps to the next solder point to make sure I didn't burn a trace, all seemed to test out as good.

Does anyone have any hints? I'd just as soon shop craigslist for (another) used wall oven as buy repair parts for this one.

Thanks to everyone for the great documentation found here!

[Longbow]

You have multiple problems. The dim display symptom is well-known and the fix IS to replace 2 electrolytics on the display board. They will usually be vented or have rounded tops.

Error Code F1 means: "Power to element relay energized during time of day display." That's a bit difficult to decode. Remember this model controller board can throw all kinds of F codes randomly. Pressing Cancel Off will clear the code. Removing power at the breaker for a minute or two and then re-booting will often help - for a while. Label the controller board connectors and check your bake relay solder connections. If the bake element shorts out, the relay connections will melt. The relay might still be ok, or you might have to order one from Mouser. They are easy to get.

The most common reason for the touch membrane pad failing is spraying cleaning fluid on it. The fluid gets up underneath the membrane and destroys it. Instead of spraying the panel, just spray your rag or towel and then wipe it down.

The next most common problem with this model is that the broiler fan runs all the time. See my earlier long thread on this subject also. I have concluded that the EEPROM on the controller board becomes corrupted. I replaced my controller board about 3 years ago and haven't had any further problems...

[digit1]

Originally Posted by Longbow

You have multiple problems. The dim display symptom is well-known and the fix IS to replace 2 electrolytics on the display board. They will usually be vented or have rounded tops.

Error Code F1 means: "Power to element relay energized during time of day display." That's a bit difficult to decode. Remember this model controller board can throw all kinds of F codes randomly. Pressing Cancel Off will clear the code. Removing power at the breaker for a minute or two and then re-booting will often help - for a while. Label the controller board connectors and check your bake relay solder connections. If the bake element shorts out, the relay connections will melt. The relay might still be ok, or you might have to order one from Mouser. They are easy to get.

The most common reason for the touch membrane pad failing is spraying cleaning fluid on it. The fluid gets up underneath the membrane and destroys it. Instead of spraying the panel, just spray your rag or towel and then wipe it down.

The next most common problem with this model is that the broiler fan runs all the time. See my earlier long thread on this subject also. I have concluded that the EEPROM on the controller board becomes corrupted. I replaced my controller board about 3 years ago and haven't had any further problems...

Thanks Longbow.
The display is no longer lighting up. Not sure what I've done, but is very dead and rebooting does not help.
You are right on regarding element shorting. The broiler element shorted during a preheat cycle a little over a month ago. That scared the wife near to death. I bought a replacement element and the oven continued to work well. I thought to myself="what a great machine, it was arc welding through circuits never intended to handle that kind of current but it still works great." A few weeks later, the F1 error popped up and spooked her as she was not cooking, just hanging out in the kitchen. She cleared it, and then watched the display dim out.
That began my research on fixing the display. While my first attempt at replacing caps looked successful, the display only lit up one more time before dimming out, to never light again.
I think it's over for this oven. I've always thought it worked well, but my wife is quite sick of it. If anyone on the board is looking for components please don't hesitate to PM me. At the least I think the white membrane switchboard is still good.
Thanks to all for the great help-
-Dylan

[goontron]

a member from ARF fixed his jenn-air display thanks to this thread. cheers
http://antiqueradios.com/forums/view...p?f=2&t=262005

[bluto]

Originally Posted by goontron

a member from ARF fixed his jenn-air display thanks to this thread. cheers
http://antiqueradios.com/forums/view...p?f=2&t=262005

Why do you say this: "that was discovered by both goontron (me) and bluto. we had to have sent dozens of emails between us before we found the fix. i wasn't registered at the time so bluto posted all about it" in that thread?

That is one huge lie. I have never had an email conversation with you. I fixed this problem in 2007 and posted it on BCN in September 2009. You did not post in this thread until December 2013.

[goontron]

Originally Posted by bluto

Why do you say this: "that was discovered by both goontron (me) and bluto. we had to have sent dozens of emails between us before we found the fix. i wasn't registered at the time so bluto posted all about it" in that thread?

That is one huge lie. I have never had an email conversation with you. I fixed this problem in 2007 and posted it on BCN in September 2009. You did not post in this thread until December 2013.

that wasn't you? i was emailing somebody in illinois about it. it was so long ago that i can't remember there name. or where that in arkansas? i cant remember any more.... anyway error corrected. my bad. my apologies. don't pelt me with blown tepo caps

[russw]

Although I found Bluto's OP and other posts some years ago, I never got around to it until this summer. Caps cost me more at my local electronics store but I didn't have to pay shipping so worked out to be the same. A great and helpful thread! I forgot to say thanks here although I got sidetracked on a related thread since I had developed secondary problem with the oven light coming on and the fan running continuously.

Thank you and to the other OP and posters at: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...560#post485560

[Aml]

I am not a religious man. I was born in the late 60's so I remember life without the internet, that is, pre-information age. I also live in Canada so we get gouged on consumer products. Like the $600 estimate to replace the bloody "dim to done" display on the Jenn-Air gas grill.

Nonetheless, bless you all for this site and the great information: The original post, later instructions and comments were perfect. I picked up the 4 capacitors (minimum quantity 5 or each type, but at less than a buck each, who cares!) a pencil tip soldering tool and a some electric solder and for under $35 bucks it works like a charm!

I found the toothpick trip elsewhere to ensure the board holes were open and the whole operation took less than 30 minutes.

Again, thank you all for participating in the information age. It is really remarkable how much value your selfless activities contribute.

For the record, this was a Jenn-air (Maytag) model SCD48600BC (b=black, c=Canada) from about 1999 which is a natural gas range.

Now I just have to figure out why the fan comes on prematurely...off to hunt in the information jungle!

[pbrabner]

I have a Jenn Air model# JJW9530DDS. Should I assume the same problems with other wall ovens you've discussed would be the same for mine? Would I have to replace all the caps on the board or just certain ones? I would have to get the numbers off each cap and order those, correct?