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#261 |
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Join Date: Nov 2011
City & State: CA.
My Country: USA.
Line Voltage: 120-125VAC 60Hz.
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,266
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![]() Not arguing that, though I wonder how hot they are in an AC adapter when the AC adapter only feels scantily warm (I guess there's no way to find out)?
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#262 | ||
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 11,236
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![]() Hmm... let's see if we can decipher this one...
- Mismatched diode sizes on the bridge rectifier - CHECK - "7700" marks on the 5vsb transformer - CHECK - very shitty built quality - CHECK ... Looks like a Sun Pro or Powmax/Leadman to me. The worst of the worst really (or is it the best of the worst?). I'm surprised they put in a 30A schottky on the 5V rail though. How generous! Too bad the 12V rail "schottky" is only that "diodes-on-a-bracket" crap. Quote:
I'll take your word, though. Rulycon is such a pile of crap that I wouldn't be surprised if we are both right ![]() Quote:
Last edited by momaka; 07-26-2012 at 12:55 AM.. |
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#263 | |
Capaholic
Join Date: Jan 2011
City & State: Trenton, NJ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 240/120V 60Hz
I'm a: Hardcore Geek
Posts: 3,989
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![]() Quote:
Cant wait until it breaks to see whats making it so hot inside ![]() Drawing ~3A at 19v, my computer makes this thing get hot! And the fact that it mostly sits on carpet doesn't help at all!
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Muh-soggy-knee |
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#264 | |
Capaholic
Join Date: Jan 2011
City & State: Trenton, NJ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 240/120V 60Hz
I'm a: Hardcore Geek
Posts: 3,989
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#265 | |
I see dead caps
Join Date: Oct 2007
City & State: Hiding inside a plated-through hole
My Country: New Zealand
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 4,700
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![]() Quote:
That's probably because the Laptop is a P4 3.3GHz which is based on Prescott. Yep. Prescott. In a Laptop. ![]()
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"Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous" -David VanHorn |
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#266 |
Capaholic
Join Date: Jan 2011
City & State: Trenton, NJ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 240/120V 60Hz
I'm a: Hardcore Geek
Posts: 3,989
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#267 |
I see dead caps
Join Date: Oct 2007
City & State: Hiding inside a plated-through hole
My Country: New Zealand
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 4,700
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![]() Yours sounds faster, although with HT and 2GB of RAM mine can still hold its own OK. Graphics are a bit sad though - Radeon 9000 - but probably better than an Intel IGP from that era.
Of course, with the high power, you get high heat too, so mine has two CPU fans, and when you put a good load on the system, you can really hear it ![]() |
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#268 | ||
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 11,236
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![]() Quote:
Surprisingly that laptop never ran too hot though. Neither did the power adapter. Actually calling it a power "brick" would be more appropriate. Quote:
![]() Last edited by momaka; 07-26-2012 at 06:40 PM.. |
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#269 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
My Country: Hungary
Line Voltage: 230V/50Hz
Posts: 190
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![]() That gutless Gigabyte psu I mentioned here
Fuse, mosfet blown. -some EMI filtring -passive pfc -470 Capxon primary capacitos -10A bridge diode... why -3842 pwm chip -6A mosfet; -ERL 35 trafo -12V: sbr10200; 5V: mbr2040; 3,3V:2040 -some weltrend supervisor -ntc on heatsink -tiny capacitors, missing filter coils; I think it could be usefull after a full rebuild though. |
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#270 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Prague, 50°4'52.22"N, 14°23'30.45"E
My Country: CZ
Line Voltage: 230 V/50 Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4,774
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![]() By coincidence, I found some ASUS which looks similar - at least from outside it had also black stick, similar heatsinks and 80mm fan. Will try to get my hands on it
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#271 |
Banned
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 637
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#272 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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![]() Low end Gigabyte PSUs aren't that good. I posted one on post 119 of this thread with half a PCB and miniscule heat sinks
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I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!! No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards ![]() Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro |
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#273 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Prague, 50°4'52.22"N, 14°23'30.45"E
My Country: CZ
Line Voltage: 230 V/50 Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4,774
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![]() OK guys. I couldn't resist and opened intelligence module for our Symmetra LX 16k UPS. It was suspicious that it dies, well, not dies, becomes to behave strangely every like 2 or 3 years. Of course there are four bulged caps (T.I.C. brand) on its power supply part.
If this will be the only problem - and I bet it will - I just saved worth 640 E / 780 USD. Just how the sucks use Chemi-Cons on the parts where it could die in less than 2 years where they would have to change it under warranty!! ADD// Guess what? It works!! This is one of the worst cases of fraud I have ever seen. Yes, I heard botu the plasma TVs, but never had them in my hands. This, I had. And the price is pretty much the same. Last edited by Behemot; 08-02-2012 at 02:27 AM.. |
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#274 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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![]() I bet no one thought a Delta would ever end up on here, but today I have just that - a destroyed delta. THe fan was branded T&T (Thieves & Thugs ?) and it quit. Here's the carnaige. The PCB discolouration didn't show up quite as clearly in the photos as I'd hoped, so if it looks slightly discoloured in the photo, it's really bad in real life. The cool part is, it still runs, albeit with very high ripple due to all the bad caps. I'm thinking it might be salvagable by replacing the caps, fan and secondary torroids.
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#275 |
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Join Date: Nov 2011
City & State: CA.
My Country: USA.
Line Voltage: 120-125VAC 60Hz.
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,266
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![]() How did it (almost) murder itself like that? Is it the tan/brown glue? Placement of diodes? Or something else?
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#276 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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![]() ^
The fan quit, as I said, and it lacks OTP |
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#277 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Prague, 50°4'52.22"N, 14°23'30.45"E
My Country: CZ
Line Voltage: 230 V/50 Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4,774
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#278 |
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Join Date: Nov 2011
City & State: CA.
My Country: USA.
Line Voltage: 120-125VAC 60Hz.
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,266
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![]() Whoops, I don't know how I missed that. ^^; No surprise that cheap sleeve bearings seize sooner than late. I'm surprised it could still start up given all the capacitors were bloated (usually the capacitors on the 5VSB rail prevent a system from posting whence they fail).
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#279 |
Capaholic
Join Date: Jan 2011
City & State: Trenton, NJ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 240/120V 60Hz
I'm a: Hardcore Geek
Posts: 3,989
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![]() WOW, that thing really fried up!
I laughed at how the one taicon is not vented, and the rest (capxon and ltec) are :P |
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#280 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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![]() It's probably just dried out. Given the amount of heat discolouration, I wouldn't blame a Panny for failing.
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