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#881 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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![]() I usually run them on the tester for 10 minutes, or until the power draw levels off (indicating that the temperature has leveled off), whichever comes last. The Bliss I had was in spec the whole time on all rails (although it was getting close to limit on the 12V output at full load). I agree though, that it should run at a given load level all day in order to for it to be a conclusive test, but I often don't have all day to test a PSU.
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I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!! No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards ![]() Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro Last edited by c_hegge; 12-28-2013 at 11:44 PM.. |
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#882 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
City & State: Madrid
My Country: Spain
Line Voltage: 230V 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 534
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#883 |
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 11,243
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![]() ![]() I guess it's my turn to post something... What I have for you: a Raidmax RX-380K (i.e. a Sun Pro KY-480ATX). outside: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/attachm...1&d=1388363334 label: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/attachm...1&d=1388363334 top side (taken a few years back): http://www.badcaps.net/forum/attachm...1&d=1388363334 another top side (a little more recent - you can see another cap has failed in there just from the PSU sitting in storage): http://www.badcaps.net/forum/attachm...1&d=1388363334 primary side showing diodes in bridge rectifier and the bent leads on the parts attached to the heat sink: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/attachm...1&d=1388363334 secondary side shot: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/attachm...1&d=1388363334 botton side (solder side): http://www.badcaps.net/forum/attachm...1&d=1388363334 This is probably the crappiest power supply I have around. The case is made out of paper-thin steel. The heat sinks are equally anorexic. Soldering on the bottom side is plain awful. Lots of loose solder balls came out when I first opened it. It's a miracle it didn't short out at the factory. The primary transistors have their leads so bent that they are nearly touching each other! As you can also see from the bottom-side picture, the separation between traces on the primary is very small. I'm pretty sure this thing never passed UL, CE, or any other safety marks. Then again, it's clear from the label the safety marks were forged. The wires are all 20 AWG (with 22 AWG for floppy connector) and completely unlabeled! ![]() 380 watts output??? Yeah right ![]() Primary/input side: Not much to talk about input filter. We have us two blue (but fake!) Y caps, and a sugar-cane-colored input choke ![]() Moving on... two bigger and two smaller diodes for the bridge. Too lazy to read part numbers, but I'm guessing 3A and 1.5A or 2A diodes. The two bigger diodes are always used, so this PSU should be capable of pulling 300W from the wall with these diodes (of course it won't, as you'll see from the rest of the parts list). Also on the primary: 2x 200V 330 uF Metacon GK primary caps that read 200 uF and 196 uF on an ESR Micro V4. Primary transistors are a pair of 13007 BJTs in half-bridge configuration. Main transformer is size 33. 5VSB transformer is the standard cute small stuff you always find in all cheap PSUs. Speaking of 5VSB - it's that good old friend, the 2-transistor design ![]() Secondary/output side: 12V rail has a 12A 200V fast recovery rectifier. 5V and 3.3V rails share a single 20A 40V schottky ![]() Output caps: 12V rail: 1x brown CS "LOW ESR" 16V 1000 uF cap placed after a PI coil. 5V rail: 2x JEE "LOW ESR" 10V 1000 uF caps (1x before and 1x after PI coil) 3.3V rail: 1x JEE "LOW ESR" 10V 1000 uF cap after PI coil. 5VSB: not exactly sure. I think 2x CS 16V 470 uF caps originally (1x before and 1x after PI coil), but one of them failed, causing the 5VSB to crazy with anything higher than 50 mA of load. I think I saw the auxiliary rail for the PWM controller (an AZ7500BP) go as high as 30V when this was going on. I recapped the failing CS cap with a questionable STONE 16V 470 uF cap out of a Philips TV that had other STONE caps of the same ratings failed. But it's a crap PSU, so why waste good caps on it? I just wanted to get it working again, which the STONE cap did. 5VSB is good for up to 1.5A of load now, though it does get warm with that load. Before you jump and scream at me... don't worry - I'm not going to put this PSU back in a PC ever again ![]() Actually, the case from this power supply is now housing the guts of a beefy HiPro HP-P2507F3P 250W PSU that a friend gave me. Sorry for that wall of text above. Hope you liked this one ![]() Last edited by momaka; 12-29-2013 at 07:54 PM.. |
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#884 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2009
City & State: Thessaloniki, Greece
My Country: Greece
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 2,140
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![]() Great post! Thank you! Though I wouldn't bother warming my soldering iron for that thing...
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#885 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Prague, 50°4'52.22"N, 14°23'30.45"E
My Country: CZ
Line Voltage: 230 V/50 Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4,774
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![]() I am curious why they call themselfs Sun Pro. Something in common with shining like a tiny sun when it starts burning and melting? It may start nuclear reaction one day if they try to squeeze too much power into that
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Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry! ![]() ![]() Exclusive caps, meters and more! Hardware Insights - power supply reviews and more!
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#886 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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#887 |
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 11,243
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![]() Thanks for sharing. Those reviews scratched an itch I had about crappy PSUs
![]() I'm still really surprised with the results of the Bliss power supply, though. It doesn't have PI coils and has really crappy heat sinks. Yet it managed to do over 300W with the ripple still in spec with over 75% efficiency. That's not too bad for a cheap PSU. I was honestly expecting results more along the lines of the NSCom. |
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#888 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: May 2011
City & State: Romania
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 3,720
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![]() I just re-opened this thread after seeing the nscom psu to say ... o.m.g
That one's a killer... |
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#889 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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![]() The bliss does have PI coils. They are small, but they are there. I would circle them in the picture of the secondary side if I had access to a computer right now. It's much harder to do on a tablet. I think what really made the nscom PSU such a killer was the fact that it only had one smallish (Possibly GP) cap per rail. I find that you can sometimes get away with no PI coil if you use better caps (not that I recommend it, though. The ripple will still be high).
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#890 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Prague, 50°4'52.22"N, 14°23'30.45"E
My Country: CZ
Line Voltage: 230 V/50 Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4,774
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![]() Just curious, what power meter do you use? Are you sure it is able to measure all the harmonics? Mine had problems with Zalman ZM400-LE without PFC, clearly it was measuring BS on higher load. Here it is not that clear but I seriously doubt the efficiency, I think some input power still went through without being detected, showing lower-than actual power draw.
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#891 | ||
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
City & State: Madrid
My Country: Spain
Line Voltage: 230V 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 534
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![]() Quote:
Quote:
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#892 |
CapXon Be Gone
Join Date: Sep 2011
City & State: Idaho
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 3,227
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![]() Regarding that Bliss PSU, it really isn't that bad and has some potential. I'm amazed that those 13007's almost did 330W! That's impressive, the fan must have been keeping them nice and cool. If you upgraded the transistors, and recapped it, it'd be a decent 300W PSU. And even being half bridge the efficiency was very respectable.
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#893 | |
Capaholic
Join Date: Jan 2011
City & State: Trenton, NJ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 240/120V 60Hz
I'm a: Hardcore Geek
Posts: 3,989
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![]() Quote:
The reason why the 13007's did so well is, I suspect, because of the efficiency of the PSU, they weren't being stressed as much. (Maybe they were switching on and off faster than other PSUs)
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Muh-soggy-knee |
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#894 |
5000!
Join Date: Dec 2011
City & State: South Greeley, Wyoming
My Country: US
Line Voltage: 13.9kv HT service and some 240v center tap oddity.
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 4,036
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![]() is it the main switchers that went on all of them? i cant tell from the video
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Things I've fixed: anything from semis to crappy Chinese $2 radios, and now an IoT Dildo.... "Dude, this is Wyoming, i hopped on and sent 'er. No fucking around." -- Me Excuse me while i do something dangerous You must have a sad, sad boring life if you hate on people harmlessly enjoying life with an animal costume. Sometimes you need to break shit to fix it.... Thats why my lawnmower doesn't have a deadman switch or engine brake anymore ![]() Follow the white rabbit. |
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#895 | |
Capaholic
Join Date: Jan 2011
City & State: Trenton, NJ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 240/120V 60Hz
I'm a: Hardcore Geek
Posts: 3,989
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![]() Quote:
(Read it in the PSU roundup) I also think the PSI did fairly well too. Even being inefficient, it would shut down on overload... something other supplies don't do, which can be lethal to the rest of the computer! Last edited by ben7; 12-31-2013 at 02:25 PM.. |
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#896 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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![]() Yah. The only one I decided fix up and keep was the Cooler Power, mainly because it is the only 2TF unit, and it was just a matter of replacing the 12V rectifers and recapping it. It was also the only one with a really decent fan and cable configuration.
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#897 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
City & State: Madrid
My Country: Spain
Line Voltage: 230V 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 534
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![]() Hey, I've noticed that the last PSU in the 2013 Cheapo Roundup, the Zumax '400W', looks quite like my Tooq '480W' wonder was once:
May be Topower perpetrated both crimes. I'm 'delighted' the Zumax managed 300 and 'only' exploded on the way to 350W ![]() And believe it or not ladies and gents, the one reviewed by C_Hegge is the fancy premium iteration in the Zumax '400W' family ![]() Behold the disowned black sheep: WARNING - NOT FOR THE FAINT HEARTED! ![]() . |
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#898 | ||
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 11,243
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![]() Quote:
... And I swear my mouth has been as dry as a desert these holidays ![]() Quote:
On the other hand, whoever took the pictures in that review above was... not a very competent photographer (to put it mildly). ![]() By the way, if you find any you think are worthwhile, we have a thread for that here: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...hlight=smileys I'll definitely suggest the one above ![]() Last edited by momaka; 01-02-2014 at 07:44 PM.. |
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#900 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Prague, 50°4'52.22"N, 14°23'30.45"E
My Country: CZ
Line Voltage: 230 V/50 Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4,774
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![]() SunPro?
Last edited by Behemot; 01-03-2014 at 10:08 AM.. |
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