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#141 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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![]() Wasn't brand new, but it was still fairly new (hardly a speck of dust on the fan) and the caps still looked OK. I think it is because it has no PI filter coils
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I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!! No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards ![]() Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro |
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#142 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2010
City & State: North England
My Country: United Kingdom
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 700
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![]() Could have been substandard/unbranded silicon?
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#143 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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![]() Considering that the 12V rectifier is only rated at 10A it wouldn't surprise me at all.
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#144 |
KABOOM!
Join Date: Jul 2010
City & State: Lehigh Acres, FL (Fmr, AR)
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V/60Hz
Posts: 134
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![]() At least there's still ONE decent use for these: somewhat sturdy project boxes
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#145 |
Believe in
Join Date: Jul 2010
City & State: Bucharest
My Country: Romania
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,691
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![]() Somewhat sturdy... They're pretty useless even as project boxes IMO as most just tear themselves apart when you try to drill some extra holes.
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#146 |
I see dead caps
Join Date: Oct 2007
City & State: Hiding inside a plated-through hole
My Country: New Zealand
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 4,700
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![]() Then you're drilling too hard for the material, practice on some tinfoil or gold leaf if you can get it, neither are as thin as a bad PSU case but you'll get the idea
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#147 | |
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 11,236
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![]() Quote:
![]() I haven't haven't ran into that problem (yet). |
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#148 |
Capaholic
Join Date: Jan 2011
City & State: Trenton, NJ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 240/120V 60Hz
I'm a: Hardcore Geek
Posts: 3,989
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![]() Had TWO computers come in, of course silly e-machine crap, with "BESTEC" brand power supply. DOA In the end, a certain small capacitor had failed in both the power supply, and KILLED the mobos! both mobos are SHORTED-DEAD. So crappy Jamicon caps in a "Bestec ATX 250-12E" are bad for your computer!
Not only was it a Jamicon, but was next to the heatsink! ![]() Might post a pic, its a pain to open the computer up after putting it back together. ![]() Bestec == ![]() -Ben |
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#149 |
Believe in
Join Date: Jul 2010
City & State: Bucharest
My Country: Romania
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,691
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#150 |
I see dead caps
Join Date: Oct 2007
City & State: Hiding inside a plated-through hole
My Country: New Zealand
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 4,700
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![]() Yeah that model PSU is widely known to be a killer, because of bad capacitors in the 5vSB circuit.
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#151 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2009
City & State: Williamsburg, Virginia
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,229
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#152 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2009
City & State: Williamsburg, Virginia
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,229
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#153 | |
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 11,236
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![]() Quote:
![]() I've already modded the cases of two PSUs by drilling 1 - 1.2 cm diameter holes in the vent area. No problem whatsoever. Their cases were only slightly thicker than the standard gutless wonder. I also modded the back covers (the metal shields) of two LCD monitors with extra 4 mm diameter holes about 5 mm apart. One of them had a very thin shield (almost aluminium foil-like) - on that one, the area around 2 or 3 holes did get slightly twisted, but not that much. And I did something like 25 holes on that monitor, so not too bad I think. |
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#154 |
EVs Rule
Join Date: Apr 2011
City & State: Leeds
My Country: UK
Line Voltage: 230Vac 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 32,373
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![]() This PSU was in a computer while my friend was demonstrating a game. It claimed 400W; from the layout, looks barely capable of 250W. (The silkscreen says 235W for the fuse installed.) Whilst the game was playing the game it suddenly went BANG and then was dead. The two primary transistors shorted (~20 ohms) very impressively (large explosion), and the resulting fireball charred quite a bit of the PSU. The on-board fuse blew, although the plug fuse did not.
Beforehand he had been reporting stability issues - his computer would crash or freeze during games. Seems to be a classic case of bad caps. Fortunately it is beyond repair, or I might actually have wasted time on this. --- This other PSU claimed 800W and was dead. Had many bad caps. I tried to repair it but that was before I knew how to desolder properly, and I wrecked the PCB - lifted several traces. ![]() The rectifiers were doubled up, including the bridge rectifier. But the caps were absolutely tiny for the output power and were no doubt a cause of the failure. The failure mode was that when turned on, a faint clicking is heard and the power supply does nothing. The 12V rail rises to 12V then shuts down, about three times a second. The transformer is no bigger than the one in my 250W unit. Maybe it's improved technology, or maybe it's just a poor design. --- A cheap PSU. This is a 250W unit. It's a cheapie. But it actually looks like it could put out 250W. Decent heatsinks, okay filter caps (good sizes), a very nice transformer and well sized power components. Took it apart and never got around to reassembling it. It also has a decent primary side filter. 2 X, 2 coils, 2 Y, plus if I remember another PCB with 1 X and 1 coil on it. It has a real bridge rectifier... Tosin (Kyogo?) primaries, CapXon secondaries + 1 Jamicon, but none bulging or failed. --- I had a nice 120W power supply a while ago, ELENCO if I remember correctly. Anyway it was a really superb design and was full of Chemicon capacitors, including the primaries. I modded that one to have a variable output voltage, which worked well. I don't have pics, but I do have video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mK_rIs7uFlo [I was young, and stupid... not much has changed!] Last edited by tom66; 08-26-2011 at 05:43 PM.. |
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#155 |
Believe in
Join Date: Jul 2010
City & State: Bucharest
My Country: Romania
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,691
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![]() Tosin isn't Toshin Kogyo (which is distributed by OST, but it's unclear who actually makes them). Yeah that looks like an honest 250 watter there.
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#156 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2004
City & State: North Springfield, Vermont
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 118-127V 59-63.5 Hz-> actualizo: pérdido de voltaje
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 6,197
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![]() Quote:
And I was forced to use that PSU for my Athlon 900 Mhz in 2001! ![]()
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#157 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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![]() Deer and sun pro did use similar heat sinks, although they are two completely separate companies.
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#158 |
Black Sheep
Join Date: Nov 2008
City & State: Madison, IN
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 16,689
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![]() Smells like a deer has been through these woods... looks like an "antlers" PSU to me.
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#159 |
I see dead caps
Join Date: Oct 2007
City & State: Hiding inside a plated-through hole
My Country: New Zealand
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 4,700
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![]() Probably they're in cahoots or it's industrial espionage - though why you'd want to copy a Deer I have no idea.
Then again, Solytech\Allied\Deer\Hyena (which one is the original?) must make a good profit off them, since they're _everywhere_ I guess perhaps copying isn't such a stupid idea at all... |
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#160 |
Large Marge
Join Date: Aug 2008
City & State: Kalamazoo, MI
My Country: United States
Line Voltage: 0-120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 2,928
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![]() Deer is the original company, Solytech was a textiles manufacturer who bought out Deer not too long ago, around 2003ish.
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