Old shuttle recapped and running strong

[Preowner]

Got my cap kit in a few days ago for my fv25 board. Sofar I ran it for 8hrs next to me at work. Only instability I found was when I was 5min into running some 3d demos to see what the onboard vid could do (of course, not much). That was most likely because of heat though:

I hadto replace some of the stock fans, so I undervolted them to save my ears. It got spicy enough in there that psu and cpu hsf were almost burning to the touch, and hdd and optical were way too hot for comfort. I was forced to put the cpu fan and rear 60mm fan(the only case fan) back to 12v.

As far as recapping goes. I have only replaced the 3 big 3900uf caps that were bulging and venting. This is mostly because I thrashed that board while trying to remove those 3. I had to heat the solder pads so so many times to remove the caps and clear of solder. At one point I was balancing the board on its side with the iron in one hand and the sucker in the other. Needless to say I heeded almost none of the advice on this site/forum but I got the job done, and it seems to be doing pretty well under some intense heat loads.

Lets see If I can scrounge up some pics for fun.

[Preowner]

BTW I used some 62/36/2 .020" solder and it worked great. Flowed so nicely even with my never-cleaned tip. Silver electronics solder kicks ass.

I got it at Jameco

[Deric]

good results

One thing I have used since my school days is a vise to hold the electronics board while I solder. Oh and BTW I just recapped a SV25 and so far 3-4 weeks with no issues. I originally noticed the bulging on the 3 same caps you mentioned (by the CPU) I did a Google on SV25 capacitors and found this site. I had to go with the 6.3v version as the 10v is difficult to locate. Oh and on the Silver bearing solder, I've used the same stuff for over 9 years and have had nothing but good luck with it.

-Deric

[Topcat]

I had to go with the 6.3v version as the 10v is difficult to locate.
-Deric

The (3) caps only have VCORE present at their positions, never exceeding 2 volts. 10v caps is overkill, and un-necessary. The 'Gloria' caps they used were likely the cheapest they could find, and just happened to be 10v caps. I've recapped a LOT of these, using 4700uF 6.3v caps, and well over a year later, still running flawlessly. The substitution was made after a lot of testing and homework.

[yanz]

what if i recap these with 2200uF 6.3V caps? I've found panasonic 3300uF (FC)caps but the leads are too big for the hole.

[kc8adu]

what if i recap these with 2200uF 6.3V caps? I've found panasonic 3300uF (FC)caps but the leads are too big for the hole.

get regular radial in the fc.
maybe you were sold snap in type?
go up in capacitance if you cant get the original value.more is better up to a point.those 3 caps filter cpu vcore.

[yanz]

ya, that 3300uf one is 16v, and i can't find those 10v or below. it's super big (12mm diameter?)

"snap in type" ? is that the model with very short leads (1+ cm)? yes i have those. the other model i can find of FC series (panasonic) is 1000uF 10V.

go up in capacitance if you cant get the original value

well, i have another mobo (shuttle mv19) with bloated caps. the value are 2700uF. so would it be okay if i recap those with the 3300 uF caps? i'll try to find the 10v model (can only get rubycon 85c "YK" and some "made in japan" brown 105C caps -- but they aren't nichicon)...

[yanz]

i was wrong. that 3300uf ones are 10v, and they are 12mm diameter.

[AK0R]

Here is a link to another site that sells replacement capacitors (I received Rubycons) that has 3300uF, 6.3V, 10mm caps available:
http://www.computekinc.us/prod01.htm

[yanz]

thanks, but i live in indonesia..
all rubycons i can get here is "YK" series (85C)

also if anybody know is this cap good? -> [M]CEHFQ Japan 105C (1500uF 16V) with darkblue color and silver strip.