Good evening,
Given a cap value of, say, 100uF/10V (but can be any other), I'd like to know if there's much difference in (worse, better or no variation) performance comparing it to a, say 100uF/50V.
I know it's (way!) safer to use the 50V rated version. But will it do a "better" job as it "should"? How the plates and dielectric are made and how they behave in different voltages?
I'm curious about this, since 'modern' electrolytics are much smaller than their older (and vintage) counterparts, which some still do a really good job. Example, I replaced a labeled 1991 Matsushita cap with a modern (2017) Nichicon, same capacitance but rated 50V. Results were pretty disappointing with no significant improvement in terms of sound (or video) quality.
Thank you.
P.S.: the newer 100uF/50V had some 3 days of the "burn-in" process, the amp was always on during this time.
Given a cap value of, say, 100uF/10V (but can be any other), I'd like to know if there's much difference in (worse, better or no variation) performance comparing it to a, say 100uF/50V.
I know it's (way!) safer to use the 50V rated version. But will it do a "better" job as it "should"? How the plates and dielectric are made and how they behave in different voltages?
I'm curious about this, since 'modern' electrolytics are much smaller than their older (and vintage) counterparts, which some still do a really good job. Example, I replaced a labeled 1991 Matsushita cap with a modern (2017) Nichicon, same capacitance but rated 50V. Results were pretty disappointing with no significant improvement in terms of sound (or video) quality.
Thank you.
P.S.: the newer 100uF/50V had some 3 days of the "burn-in" process, the amp was always on during this time.
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