warning!xcelite flush cutters!

[ratdude747]

sorry... wrong thread....

[Uranium-235]

this thread is stickeyed, so I don't think it can 'die' cause it never falls off any page

anyways, I always cut leads with my wit, sharper then ever

[tazwegion]

WIT? sharp humour?

In a pinch... right angle nail clippers do a fine job!

[Johnny P]

Why are you cutting them again? Don't youz guys use a solder sucker?

[RJARRRPCGP]

Originally Posted by tazwegion

Well this pair of side cutters does the job for me, not remotely as nice looking as those pro'sKIT pieces, but the cut is closer than whatever the mass soldering machines (or skilled monkey's) use

I suppose they could use some new rubber grips or heatshrink though

Looks like mine!

[nickBcap]

Hi, I bought a solder sucker and loved it for removing so much solder from around the hole that the capacitors needed very little heating to remove but the most annoying thing is the fact the nozzel is always plastic which melts and the shop does not sell replaceable tips.
Ok, so now I want to buy a pair of pro cutters, and, I dont think I will go with the fingernail cutter theory. Hopefully using a pro tool a few times is the start of a pleasant repair experience.
Thank you for making such this helpful thread.

[severach]

Radial lead parts should be trimmed before soldering. It's faster, easier, and the work quality is much better. The lead trim length is close to the width of the blades on many wire cutters such as Harbor Freight 98410. Hold the cap even to the blade cocked back a bit to add some length. Practice results in even and perfect length cuts every time.

[MDOC]

I never use cutters or knives to remove radial components. I use just a soldering iron and a solder wick or sucker. Apply heat to one leg, pull the cap back to pull the leg out. Then do the other leg. Then suck up the remaining solder out of the holes. No risk to board damage. This is how professionals do it. (You can also suck out the solder first before removing, but usually the leads still stick to the holes by the remaining solder, so it may take several tries.)

It's OK to use cutters to remove axial components. Don't use a nail cutter. Too bulky.

[y_not]

I was wondering if you could clarify for this "flush cutter newb".

It appears from the photos that they are angled for what, a 45degree cut?
Are they designed this way so that you do not have to hold your knuckles parallel to the board to get a parallel cut of the lead?
IE. This way you don't have to wrench your wrist or arm at an odd, awkward, unnatural angle. Instead, holding it more naturally, with your hand raised away from the board and your knuckles not jabbing into component leads. With the tool end now parallel to the board, instead of the handle being parallel. Letting it do the work of making a proper angle, leaving your hand comfortably away from the board.

Or is it the other way around?
Where by placing the handles of the tool parallel to the board, thus raising the cutting end up and off the board surface, so as to get a proper cut length from the component lead. Each and every time.
IE. The tool automatically makes the proper length each cut when used in this fashion.

I'm sure once could use it either way, but going against what the tool was designed for, kind of defeats the purpose.
Hopefully I have described this well enough to make sense.

[cheapie]

Originally Posted by y_not

I was wondering if you could clarify for this "flush cutter newb".

It appears from the photos that they are angled for what, a 45degree cut?
Are they designed this way so that you do not have to hold your knuckles parallel to the board to get a parallel cut of the lead?
IE. This way you don't have to wrench your wrist or arm at an odd, awkward, unnatural angle. Instead, holding it more naturally, with your hand raised away from the board and your knuckles not jabbing into component leads. With the tool end now parallel to the board, instead of the handle being parallel. Letting it do the work of making a proper angle, leaving your hand comfortably away from the board.

Or is it the other way around?
Where by placing the handles of the tool parallel to the board, thus raising the cutting end up and off the board surface, so as to get a proper cut length from the component lead. Each and every time.
IE. The tool automatically makes the proper length each cut when used in this fashion.

I'm sure once could use it either way, but going against what the tool was designed for, kind of defeats the purpose.
Hopefully I have described this well enough to make sense.

Mainly the first way.

[kingsapper]

In my opinion...

Cutters (Diagonal, flush, etc) should be sharp and well cared for. If you use them improperly they will damage things of course, but if you use dull banged up cutters or try and cut large or too-hard material (piano wire) with your cutters you will wreck things. So don't do that.

Likewise with fine-jaw pliers and tweezers. Very handy when you're using them correctly, but if they get banged up they're worse than useless.

Cutters should be sharp. Soldering irons should be hot. Boards/components should be clean. Always solder-cap cut leads.

And moreover, the underline for all of this: Care should be taken!

cheers,
KS

[farman]

thankssssssssssssssss

[chozo4]

I've been guilty of using these for the purpose of lead cutting post-solder. They work well but can be tough on thicker leads due to not enough leverage from their small size. That's where proper cutters come into play.

[rhomanski]

I was issued a pair of diamond flush cutters at work in 1990. I've used them until last week when I ordered a pair of xcelite. The diamonds got to were they wouldn't cut tie cord anymore. Never had a problem, it's called skill and common sense. Well I did cut a couple wires in two here and there, always happens. I had to crawl up in a real hard spot in the nose of a MD-80 one time because someone cut one phase to the standy horizon. It was laying over on it's side. I got it spliced though. Stood it right up.

[Aussie Max]

Brilliant you know your stuff
Graeme