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I thought it might be useful to contribute some of the things I have learnt using TCs method to replace caps. I have done several successful cap replacement projects using the information and assistance from people on this board and I thank you all. Without this board I would not have attempted these projects so big thanks to TC and his technique.
Firstly I think it is important to have a proper solder station. It is not necessary to get a digital one but feel free if you have the money. You should choose one from a major manufacturer like Hakko, Goot, Weller or ERSA which I use. I chose ERSA because it is available locally and all the parts/tips/sponges are also available locally which will prolong the life of the station, rather than ordering a japanese station from far and not having good access to the parts. You should also order 2 extra sponges and the correct tips from the supplier. Get 3 tips including one standard. It may be difficult or expensive to find them later. You will find out your own personal preference of tip by using all 3.
A 60W station is recommended, preferably one with antistatic properties. The higher wattage is recommended because the traces in the board eat up a lot of the heat from your iron. The wattage does not mean more temperature but it means that temperature can be maintained with bigger jobs.
You will not be getting anywhere with one of the corded 22W irons with fine tip from goot which I originally bought, it is not hot enough to melt the solder on the board to remove the caps. Anyway the 60W will be also useful for doing other jobs like making stereo cables or doing some electrical wiring. The good thing about proper solder stations is that they have a stand which includes a sponge. This is very important because you will need somewhere to safely put the iron while you are messing about with the board. The wet sponge is also important because you must constantly clean the iron of excess solder using the sponge in order to do a nice job.
You might think that you need a hot air pencil and desoldering station. These would make your job very easy but are an unnecessary expense if you are to recap only a few boards. Start small and you have not wasted too much money if you dont have success. Then when you move on to bigger projects you may wish to invest in better equipment.
For the solder station you will need a good tip. The size and length is very important. The smaller width and longer the tip, the less heat from the heater of the iron will be transferred to the tip.
I have found very thin tips to be useless with my iron, you just cannot melt the original solder on the board. Common guidelines say that you need a tip which is the same width as the pad which you are soldering. I am currently using a standard tip which is a chisel type. It is much wider than the pads on a board but I am using it so the thin corner contacts the pad and the rest of the tip contacts the lead.
I thought it might be useful to contribute some of the things I have learnt using TCs method to replace caps. I have done several successful cap replacement projects using the information and assistance from people on this board and I thank you all. Without this board I would not have attempted these projects so big thanks to TC and his technique.
Firstly I think it is important to have a proper solder station. It is not necessary to get a digital one but feel free if you have the money. You should choose one from a major manufacturer like Hakko, Goot, Weller or ERSA which I use. I chose ERSA because it is available locally and all the parts/tips/sponges are also available locally which will prolong the life of the station, rather than ordering a japanese station from far and not having good access to the parts. You should also order 2 extra sponges and the correct tips from the supplier. Get 3 tips including one standard. It may be difficult or expensive to find them later. You will find out your own personal preference of tip by using all 3.
A 60W station is recommended, preferably one with antistatic properties. The higher wattage is recommended because the traces in the board eat up a lot of the heat from your iron. The wattage does not mean more temperature but it means that temperature can be maintained with bigger jobs.
You will not be getting anywhere with one of the corded 22W irons with fine tip from goot which I originally bought, it is not hot enough to melt the solder on the board to remove the caps. Anyway the 60W will be also useful for doing other jobs like making stereo cables or doing some electrical wiring. The good thing about proper solder stations is that they have a stand which includes a sponge. This is very important because you will need somewhere to safely put the iron while you are messing about with the board. The wet sponge is also important because you must constantly clean the iron of excess solder using the sponge in order to do a nice job.
You might think that you need a hot air pencil and desoldering station. These would make your job very easy but are an unnecessary expense if you are to recap only a few boards. Start small and you have not wasted too much money if you dont have success. Then when you move on to bigger projects you may wish to invest in better equipment.
For the solder station you will need a good tip. The size and length is very important. The smaller width and longer the tip, the less heat from the heater of the iron will be transferred to the tip.
I have found very thin tips to be useless with my iron, you just cannot melt the original solder on the board. Common guidelines say that you need a tip which is the same width as the pad which you are soldering. I am currently using a standard tip which is a chisel type. It is much wider than the pads on a board but I am using it so the thin corner contacts the pad and the rest of the tip contacts the lead.
Thanks!
the old solder out the hole. if the lead port is damaged then you would need solder to fill the hole completely through the board, it could be difficult.
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