So If you look on page 15 this is where your problem is. Could be a bad connection on the display board a bad solder joint or one of the pins on the ic are floating. file:///C:/Users/Ann/Desktop/TEDS%20SERVICE%20MANUAL.pdf
It does not matter if it is exactly yours the principle will be the same.
I noticed in this model the heat sinks are bigger an flatter then the one I had. It would be interesting to know what else is designed different.
Here are the photos of the front panel, I replaced the 3 capacitors but it didn't help. cheked the diode and it's ok.
But, what I noticed is after that I cleaned the main board with a compressor, when I turned on the wine cooler the temperature went down to 17 degrees Celsius but after a few hours got back to 23.
before I cleaned it, the temperature didn't fall under 25 degrees.
Here are the photos of the front panel, I replaced the 3 capacitors but it didn't help. cheked the diode and it's ok.
But, what I noticed is after that I cleaned the main board with a compressor, when I turned on the wine cooler the temperature went down to 17 degrees Celsius but after a few hours got back to 23.
before I cleaned it, the temperature didn't fall under 25 degrees.
Does your compressor have oil in it? I would so back and clean the board with alcohol. The type you get from the pharmacy. If you ever want to clean a board with air use clean air. You get that in a can and there are no impurities in it. I would say that the temp setting and reading has to do with the those metal looking things on the small board. The board has a + temp a -temp and a set written on the board. I am not sure what they are? Perhaps "BudM" could enlighten us on what they are and if they can be adjusted. There may be other reasons why the temp does not go down. The caps you replaced on the readout board may have been tune. If you put the old caps back we would find that out. In the process of unplugging a connector one of the wires maybe loose in the plug and now it is not making contact. I would clean the main board with alcohol first. you can use a paper towel to blot any residue. Then I would replace the old caps. Then check the connectors for continuity.
Important question is the read out board in agreement with the internal temperature of the cooler? If so or if the differences in the internal temperature and the read out temperature has changed then I would say it is an adjustment on the readout board and changing those caps made a difference.
So I see the metal coil looking things are some sort of push buttons.
If the + side markings of the cap is not in agreement between the top side of the board and bottom side of the board then it could be in backwards. When you replaced it you may have gone by the top side marking and that might be incorrect. You could trace it's line to see what it is connected to too verify it is in correct.
Let me ask this in a different way. Is the temperature you "set" on the cooler read out and the temperature the cooler "reads" two different temperatures or are they one in the same?
If they are one in the same then I would be in agreement with BudM the sensor itself could be bad. If the "set" temperature and the "read" temperature are different then the problem is in the read out board.
Let me ask this in a different way. Is the temperature you "set" on the cooler read out and the temperature the cooler "reads" two different temperatures or are they one in the same?
When I set the temperature, the temperature blinks on the cooler read out display and notifying me that "OK, I GOT IT" and then goes back to the temperature that is in that moment inside the cooler. After a few hours it should drop to the temperature that I set previously but it doesn't.
When I set the temperature, the temperature blinks on the cooler read out display and notifying me that "OK, I GOT IT" and then goes back to the temperature that is in that moment inside the cooler. After a few hours it should drop to the temperature that I set previously but it doesn't.
So lets back up to your first post;
"I have a wine cooler that seems to work fine but the temperature displayed on the panel doesn't match the temperature inside of the wine cooler, I meen, the temperature inside the wine cooler is 12 degrees but on the panel it shows 23 and fluctuate a few degrees up and down.
I have replaced all the capacitors on the board and it didn't help.
Which temperature is the 12 degrees? Just inside the cooler "or" is it the set temperature and the cooler temperature? The 23 degrees is that the read out temperature "or" the set temperature.
I have read a little on the 28 bottle wine bar wine cooler. One thing you should know is that it has an automatic defrost cycle. They say that the temperature will be 13 degrees less then ambient. The set on your machine is confusing me. On other brand wine coolers the set is used to go from upper cooling unit to the lower cooling unit and their display is only what you set the temperature to read. The actually temperature in the unit may be different. Your unit does not explain what actually triggers the defrost cycle other then it is automatic. I believe your temperature sensor is a Negative temperature coefficient which means as temperature rises then the resistance of the sensor decreases. Therefore more current goes through them which turns on the power supply more. I have seen that these thermo-electric coolers Pulse Width Modulators power supplies. So what is varied is the duty cycle of the supply and not the voltage. This means that the more the resistance is dropped by the temperature sensor when your unit is hot. The extra current flow is felt by the PWM power supply and instead of turning on for a short on time and a long off time. The on time increases and the off time decreases.
I am a little confused. I forget if you posted the user manual. I will look through the post again to try and find it.
When the internal temperature of your cooler was 12 degrees about how hot was the ambient at that time?
I believe your auto defrost cycle also has the same type of temperature sensor as the cooler. So I would say when the temperature gets to a maximum coolness then this sensor warms the unit by turning off the power supply. After it get a certain temperature then the cooler sensor kicks back on cooling the unit because the defrost is no longer turning off the power supply. The defrost sensor is now of high resistance.
I believe my last two post describe how your unit is working. Now with that knowledge we need to understand what has happened from the time your internal cooling temp was at 12 degrees and now.
Which temperature is the 12 degrees? Just inside the cooler "or" is it the set temperature and the cooler temperature? The 23 degrees is that the read out temperature "or" the set temperature.
12 degrees is the set temperature and inside the cooler temperature (I measured that).
23 degrees is the read out temperature
12 degrees is the set temperature and inside the cooler temperature (I measured that).
23 degrees is the read out temperature
That's what I heard too. But, I can't understand then how it should show on the read out display.
The read out display is not really a read out. It is only the temperature you set and would like to have inside cooler. The actual read temperature you get using a thermometer is the true temperature,
Did you find out why the cooler will not go down to the 12 degrees that you once had it go down to?
The cooler never went down to 12 degrees (on the display), that is my main problem.
If I measure it with a thermometer I do get 12 degrees inside the cooler but, not on the display.
The cooler never went down to 12 degrees (on the display), that is my main problem.
If I measure it with a thermometer I do get 12 degrees inside the cooler but, not on the display.
So what you are saying is you can not enter 12 degrees on the display?
If this is the case what can you enter on the display?
If you are able to enter anything but 23 on the display does the inside temperature change?
Also, can you switch between C and F and does the F led light up?
Can you switch between w and r and does the r led light up.
Most likely you will not be able to switch between W and R because you do not have a dual zone cooler. So that you can keep your white wine at 7 to 12 C and your red wine between 14 to 18 C
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