Dim Clock LCD on Jenn-Air wall oven

[KeithMcC]

This is a Whirlpool

The LED display is OK, but the beeper has been getting weaker for months. Recently the up arrow button (by the beeper) stopped working (and beeping), and a few days later the oven light and clock buttons (down arrow still working).

Of course I don't know if the beeper and button issues are related.

There are three 220Ufx35V and two 1000Ufx6.3V. The 220s measured OK capacitance in-circuit. The 1000s didn't, but one measured OK out of circuit (replaced it from my junk box - didn't help).

Does this sound like a capacitor issue? (I know I should just replace them all, but I will have to have them shipped.)

[KeithMcC]

Originally Posted by KeithMcC

This is a Whirlpool

Disregard. Fixed it dead. Going to buy new range.

http://cuug.ab.ca/kmcclary/WHIRLPOOL_RIP.JPG

[johnhenderson1961]

Thanks for this info and can you tell me what this UL stamped part is for? I found stuck to the top of the oven opening and it is magnetized and the connections have rusted.

Originally Posted by bluto

Welcome to the badcaps forums!

I guess I should have put all of that information in my original post. So after one more peek inside the oven, here are the specs and part numbers to order from Digikey. All part numbers listed are for Panasonic FC series capacitors. FM series part number shown in parenthesis where the FC series cap is out of stock at the time of this post.


On the clock module:

C1 & C4 470uF 35v P10301-ND (or the FM series: P12400-ND)
C3 68uF 35v P10292-ND
C7 22uF 50v P10318-ND

On my oven I also replaced the two caps on the power supply/relay board as a precaution. They were as follows:

3300uf 16v P10260-ND [filter cap] (or the FM series: P12373-ND)
47uf 50v P10321-ND [the only other cap on the board]

Of course the power supply/relay board could vary if you have a different model oven (gas for example).

Please update this thread if this information is useful and you are able to repair your clock module.

[bluto]

Are there any numbers on it? Can you show it from another angle?

[fzabkar]

Can you see it in the oven's parts list or diagram?

http://www.google.com/search?q=site%...22wall+oven%22

[mxslick]

Originally Posted by johnhenderson1961

Thanks for this info and can you tell me what this UL stamped part is for? I found stuck to the top of the oven opening and it is magnetized and the connections have rusted.

That is a magnet commonly used with alarm switches....the pic shows the magnet half.

You might have another part in the vicinity that looks exactly like that in the pic, but with two wires coning out of one end.

What connections are you referring to? Get a pic of those connections so we can see what is going on.

[kentak]

My board, 71003424R, has a resistor in series with a 35v 220uf capacitor in the C3 position. Can these be replaced with a 68f 35v capacitor? Why is the resistor in the circuit? Thanks for your help!

Ken

[bluto]

There was another one a while back in this thread that was a reconditioned part and had a resistor in line with the capacitor. Does it look like this?

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpos...&postcount=126

It is probably fine to just go back with a 68uf capacitor in the C3 position.

[kentak]

Yeah, mine looks just like that. Except that the resistor looks like it may have burned out. The solder spot on the board looked like it got hot. Probably after the holidays I'll experiment with some parts. Right now we're doing too much baking and holiday food prep to put the oven out of commission if I blow up the board while playing with it.

Ken

[Ljent]

Thank you for your information. Picked up new Caps at radio Shack and replaced all except the one under the display. My soldering is not that good. Display works and wife is happy.

Thanks again.

[Kyrie]

Another Jen-Air, model SVD48600, fixed thanks to the insights posted in this thread. Thanks!

Annoyingly, it developed the "constantly running broiler fan" problem at exactly the same time the clock gave up the ghost. I know I've seen others reference that problem in this thread, and I suspect that they may be related somehow. I've posted the details of my experience in the thread on that subject should anyone else be interested.

[Sno pro]

Thank for the info guys .

[pjkovie]

Ok - I have a Kenmore gas range with a 316080102 control board. The display has been getting progressively less bright for the last year or so. Now it's really hard to even see what temperature settings and readings are. The clock display is really dim as well. Anyhow, I removed the control board and display to see what caps I would need to order and replace, but I found another problem. The board with the caps is kind of sitting in a frame atop the display board. I would need to remove the "cap" board from the frame to gain access to the solder points of the caps. Is there a tool or a bit of "tribal knowledge" that will allow easy removal of the top board from the plastic frame without breaking anything? It really seems to be fitted quite tight into the frame.

[bluto]

I can't really tell from the pictures. But usually these things are made to snap together quickly on an assembly line. Is it possible that the tabs on both ends are what is holding the board down?

[pjkovie]

Thanks Bluto, I guess that it'll take brute force. Looking at the 1st picture - along the long sides you can see 3 lighter color plastic tabs. That is the circuit board itself protruding though slots in the plastic frame. There are 2 boards with the lower board containing the LCD and the upper board having the caps in question. The frame does flex some, but it certainly feel as though it would break before the tabs release. I guess that I could glue it back together after the repair (if I do break it). I just thought that someone here had some experience with a similar or the same board enclosure since this problem with the bad capacitors seems so prevalent.

[Silveruser]

Originally Posted by johnhenderson1961

Thanks for this info and can you tell me what this UL stamped part is for? I found stuck to the top of the oven opening and it is magnetized and the connections have rusted.

Some Jenn -Air ovens have a drying mode. The magnet end sticks to the door in a small indented area - as you close the door it pushes in on the door switch. This lets the fan run with the door open slightly for drying at low heat.

[SundayRacer]

Jennair SVE47600B

I have a Jenn air model # SVE47600B (s) 18746375WK. Slide in electric range, all operates except the clock display is to dim to read... other then that bake / broil operate. once you get the hang of the inputs. Replaced the board recently, was not aware of this site. Cost a little over $300 with labor. Have the old display... would like to try and repair as spare. original is part # 71001799R. Mine is similar, but not same. Cap C3 is Xion 220uf-35v, -40 - +105c 20%... its connected to a resistor 29om / 5% (red, white, black, gold) or 28om / 5% (red, gray, black, gold). if the C3 is the problem part, has anybody else had this combo.


Thanks

[bluto]

This has been seen on other refurbished boards: (http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpos...&postcount=126)

The resistor is a crutch. Remove both the resistor and capacitor replace with a high quality, low esr 68uf 35v capacitor as described in the first post of this thread.

[SundayRacer]

Thanks, does it matter the original capacitor is a 220uf 35v, how will changing it to a 68uf affect the board.do I install a replacement resistor with it.

[bluto]

No, 68uf is what was there originally in C3. The board in your pictures was refurbished by someone other than the factory that made it. The cheapo cap and resistor job screams this fact. If you look at my board in the first post and compare it to yours they will look almost identical. Never mind what they did and just put it back the way it was but with a quality low ESR capacitor (such as Panasonic FC as mentioned in the first post).

Rant to mods.. At some level these really long threads should be able to have the first post be editable so that new information can be added and the first post in the thread becomes the definitive holder of all relevant knowledge that would otherwise be lost among 10 pages of replies. See the avs forums for examples of this.