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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#121 |
New Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
City & State: Sandy, Utah
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1
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![]() Thanks for the thread Bluto, you are the man. 10 minute repair saved me over 2 bills, worked like a champ. No display for 7 years and no way I was gonna pay close to $350 for the part. Thanks again.
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#122 |
New Member
Join Date: May 2013
City & State: Pennsylvania
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1
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![]() Hi all, I just wanted to post another thank you and success story if anyone is still watching this thread after 4 years ! 50-year-old housewife here, and I didn't have any problems. The heads up about the polarity and the part numbers were very helpful. I also took the advice to order all the capacitors, including an extra C3 just in case. All I needed was one C3!
I found the thread using Google, and I followed the directions precisely, even ordering through Digi-Key and selecting First class mail, $2.75 to Pennsylvania. Capacitor C3 currently goes for 68 cents, (May 2013). It took 3 days to get here and about 15 - 20 minutes start to finish to remove the board and replace the bad capacitor and button everything back up. Thanks Bluto and the other commenters who posted photos and advice. My display was out for over 5 years. I'm so happy and my husband is amazed. |
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#123 |
New Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
City & State: Safety Harbor
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1
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![]() To all: THANKS do much!!! I just completed the Capacitor replacement on my Jenn-Aire Control Panel Board as well and saved $150-300! Great posts, photos and instructions. This forum ROCKS!!! Can't thanks you all enough. A quip trip to radio shack and now "Mama" will be happy tonight when she get home and sees the nice blue clock staring at her!
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#124 |
New Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
City & State: sac, Ca
My Country: uSa
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1
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![]() Thanks Bluto!
After a power failure the display went dim.... Sure enough when I looked at C3 it was burnt a little. Did not have a 68uf 35v cap. but did find some 47uf 35v caps and paralleled 2 of them which would equal 94uf so the display is a little brighter but still good. Didn't cost a dime, but did take some time digging through my electro-scrap in my garage to find the two 47uf caps. on some PCB's and pull them. ![]() |
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#125 | |
New Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
City & State: Ottawa, ON
My Country: Canada
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1
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![]() Quote:
Thanks! |
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#126 |
New Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
City & State: santa cruz, ca
My Country: usa
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 2
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![]() This is the third time my Jenn-Air wall oven's display has gone dim. I read the posts and this time I purchased a Digi-Key 68uF cap and planned to replace the old one. The circuit board in the oven is reconditioned. See my two photos attached.
The component presently in position "C3" isn't similar to the 68uF that I purchased. The board looks like that component was replaced in the past. Any suggestions? |
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#127 |
Black Sheep
Join Date: Nov 2008
City & State: Madison, IN
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 16,675
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![]() Just replace the *cough* mess *cough* in that location with the new capacitor. It looks like some moron for whatever reason thought a crap cap could be made to last longer by limiting voltage/ current with a bodged-in resistor... Yeah, good one! (sarcasm)
Whoever refurbed that board must not have been the hottest soldering iron on the bench... that's pretty terrible. Damn. Hall of shame material?
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#128 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2007
City & State: Illinois
Posts: 432
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![]() Damn. If I were going to 'refurbish' things in that manner, I sure wouldn't want to take credit for my work. Much less have it traceable with that fancy 'refurbished' sticker.
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#129 |
New Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
City & State: santa cruz, ca
My Country: usa
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 2
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![]() Thanks for the help. The repair was successful!
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#130 |
Super Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2003
City & State: dayton ohio
My Country: U.S.A!
Line Voltage: 12vdc,120/240vac,480vac 3ph on my bench
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 8,297
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![]() wow.and just to think a proper low esr cap in that position would have lasted the rest of the units useful life!but no we will bbq it with a resistor!
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#131 |
CapXon Be Gone
Join Date: Sep 2011
City & State: Idaho
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hardcore Geek
Posts: 3,216
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#132 |
New Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
City & State: Hoover, al
My Country: Usa
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1
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![]() Thanks for the help & pictures about replacing C3 capacitor. My display now works for the first time in about 3 years. Yea!
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#133 |
New Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
City & State: Boston MA
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1
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![]() Bless you badcaps.net and contributors to this topic:
(fixed post to use attached/uploaded image rather than my hosted image) Last edited by mdseuss; 12-16-2013 at 05:40 PM.. Reason: followed FAQ for hosting images :-) |
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#134 |
5000!
Join Date: Dec 2011
City & State: South Greeley, Wyoming
My Country: US
Line Voltage: 13.9kv HT service and some 240v center tap oddity.
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 4,035
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![]() my jennair just went dim so i replaced the cap with a 50uf 100v (its what was at hand) and i like how bright the display is now.
just a hint for anyone who might come across this thread and thinks there display is too bright. |
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#135 |
New Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
City & State: Lexington
My Country: United States
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1
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![]() First of all, thank you for this thread!
I've sent off for the digi-key replacement caps. While I wait, I have a 35V 100uF cap to replace in the C3 position. Would that work? Thanks and looking forward to not having to show you my work. (pictures taken now just in case) Phil |
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#136 |
New Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
City & State: hanover, pa
My Country: usa
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1
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![]() haven't soldered in 20 years. ordered the caps from digikey ($2.07) and ran to radio shack to get a soldering iron, desoldering bulb, solder and flux ($30). removed 4 screws from the oven display panel. removed 4 screws and 3 plugs from the control panel. replaced the caps mentioned above. saved my girlfriend's mom $500 that was quoted to her from a repair man. thanks to everyone for the info. i got a lot of points for this! (this was a jenn-air double wall oven)
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#137 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2007
City & State: Illinois
Posts: 432
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![]() You should probably just wait and put the 68uf in position C3.
Quote:
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#138 |
New Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
City & State: Richmond, VA
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 2
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![]() Thanks Bluto! As with the many others, my clock went dim, then out and my keypad became unresponsive. Pulled the clock module, replaced all caps and, who woulda thunk it, the darn thing now works like new. The downside is that now I want to tear all of my electronics apart looking for bad caps. Got to justify the purchase of that Weller WP35.
Upside? My Klipsch iFi is now also working again after I replaced the 5 caps in the power supply. |
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#139 |
New Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
City & State: West Virginia
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 2
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![]() I know this is an old thread but just wanted to say thanks for the help. I have never soldered before but after reading this post and watching a couple YouTube videos I was able to successfully repair the dim display on my oven in under 30 mins. My soldering job on the first terminal was not good so I had to redo it. But this was easy since I used a desoldering braid to remove the solder. I actually really enjoyed getting to learn a new skill.
I am also having another issue with my oven (Jenn-Air model SVD48600B) that hopefully someone can help with. My exhaust fan (downdraft fan) does not come on. When I press the button it beeps but then nothing happens. Can someone point me in the right direction on how to troubleshoot it? I am no master electrician but I do own a couple multimeters (as the name suggests I am a newb at this). Thanks! |
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#140 | |
Capaholic
Join Date: Jan 2011
City & State: Trenton, NJ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 240/120V 60Hz
I'm a: Hardcore Geek
Posts: 3,989
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![]() Quote:
I wonder, does the display give an error code? Otherwise, the fan motor may be toasted. if you could get us a picture of the fan motor, we can point out where to check it with the multimeter.
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