EuropAce EWC 913 Wine Cooler power board fuse blow /shorted

[lotas]

Originally Posted by SergeAuckland

Just found this forum and registered, and hoping members here can help me.

A family friend just gave me their Wine Cooler to repair, and this thread has already greatly helped in identifying the VIPer 22A on the power board as faulty, so I have a replacement on order.

However, the hanny10-12C power board had already been removed, so don't now have a record of where each of the wires go. I'm assuming that the red and black plugs go in their respective coloured sockets, but there are two two-pin white plugs, which could go into two different sockets, and then the Brown, Red and Blue cables on spade connectors.

I would be very grateful if anyone has a photo or a description of what wire goes where.

With thanks

S.

This video will help you figure it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zxgGCip8ms

[SergeAuckland]

Thanks Lotas,
Unfortunately, the video shows a different board. The picture you posted is the right board, but the white two-pin connectors are the ones I'm not sure of. There are two sizes, and two sockets for each size.

The Display board has the larger 6 pin connector, and one small two-pin connector with just a single green wire. I'm assuming that connects with NTC1, as that has one pin that goes to earth. It could equally connect with CN1, but as that's labelled as a fan connector, I don't think that would connect with the display board.

The other larger 2 pin connector, which comes from the body of the cooler, could go in either the connector labelled LED, or the one labelled OUT. I don't see any way of telling which as I don't know what this does.

Any further help would be really appreciated.

S.

[lotas]

NTC1 is a thermal sensor.
In the video, you can see the colors of the wires going to the connectors.

[SergeAuckland]

Thanks, but which of the wires with the three two pin connectors goes where?
1) I have one connector with a single green wire coming from the display PCB.
2) I have one connector with a black wire and a white wire.
3) I have one connector with two black wires.

On the board:-
I have one socket marked CN1, which you kindly identified as being for the fan.
I have one socket marked NTC1
I have one socket marked LED
I have one socket marked OUT.

Four labelled sockets, three wired connectors without identification. That's my confusion.

Best regards

S.

[lotas]

Green is more likely on NTC1. Black is white next to it.

[SergeAuckland]

Fortunately, the person who removed the board took the precaution of photographing the connections before removing them.

Hopefully, when the parts arrive, I should be able to repair the board.

Thanks to Lotas for their help.


S

[SergeAuckland]

I thought it was too easy!
I've replaced the VIper22A switch-mode chip, and C1 ([email protected]) and C2 ([email protected]) and put it all back together. Although the fuse F1 doesn't blow any more, and F2 is intact, the cooler doesn't start up and there's nothing on the display.

Any ideas as to what I can check next?

Thanks
S.

[lotas]

Is there voltage across this capacitor?

[SergeAuckland]

No, nothing there.

C1 (33uF 400v) has 325v across it, so volts are getting that far.

S

[lotas]

If the VIPer22A burned out, then these component diodes could burn out, their resistors must be checked with a multimeter.

[lotas]

And the VIPer22A could also carry the optocoupler with it.

[SergeAuckland]

Thanks, will do, and report back.

S.

[SergeAuckland]

Originally Posted by lotas

If the VIPer22A burned out, then these component diodes could burn out, their resistors must be checked with a multimeter.

Can you check what value R35 should be? Mine reads brown black brown, which should be 100 ohms at 5%, but it measures 193 ohms. Before I change it, I would like to be sure that the colours haven't faded and that yours is 100 ohms.

Diode D1 is short, D2 measures OK, but I'll change it anyway. Other resistors measure OK.

I'll change the optocoupler as I can't be sure what I'm measuring and the cost is trivial.

Best regards

S.

[lotas]

I do not have such a board, all the photos that I posted from the Internet, so all measurements and replacement of components are up to you, if the color rings should be 100 Om, then change to 100 Om.

[SergeAuckland]

It works! Had to replace the Viper22A chip, two capacitors, two diodes, one resistor and the optoisolator, but now it runs. The temperature display is faulty, it displays rubbish, so I assume that whatever damaged the power board also damaged the display driver, but that's more of an inconvenience than a serious fault.

Thanks for your help in finding my way through an unfamiliar board.

S.

[sam_sam_sam]

You could put a digital external temperature sensor controller and just use it for a display and from EBay you can find them and they are not very expensive