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    PCchips M810S v7.0a board

    Some time ago my friend Morphy give me this board for experiments and components, maybe if I could repair it? It is a bit older one, SDRAMs and 100 or 133Mhz FSB only, but it should take AXP cpu's since SiS 730s chipset support AXP. I mainly love on the board the nicely done 3 phase Vcore
    The board however did not kick in, no matter what my stepbro did or did not, so it was pronounced dead until I noticed that someone made scratch on the mobo that damaged the PSB traces, so it was immediatelly clear to me, why it did not psoting at all. The traces between chipset and ram are important and mobo will not post w/o two or more of them at all.
    After reasonably hard repair work I got lucky and these traces looks like pretty well repaired to me. It is enought to patiently with the tip of blade scratch the paint from the trace big as thicker dog chair and when it shine with the cooper, then solder, solder, solder it
    I was happy how the repair went well, so I pushed my stepbro to give her another try. And you will never quess what happend next. When I power up the mobo then the room was shocked (and mainly my stepbro, who run away from the board to the other end of the room) by lound crack sound and from the bottom of the there primary Vcore pre-filtering 5V rail line caps flew into air about 50 cm high column of internals of the poor G-Luxon cap.
    It was so loud, that my hearing get partialy noticably lowered for some time, it was like a gunshot!



    Dear G-Luxon went open, as you can see. Luckily the testing unlocked oldie AXP Barton 2500+ survived this, as well as everything else, even it took a while till the in shock turned this thing off.

    Conclusion from this is - if you see even a little bit bulging G-Luxon, expect a loud booom. I know that already, this is how my Chemi-con KZG on my DFI board went to hell...

    Another point - in our todays overscarred world from "terrorists" - what do you think it happen, when cap with such loud boom explode into your notebook when you fly into commercional jet? Hell, you might even get shoot


    So, these there imput G-Luxon caps 2200uF 6.3V I exchanged for Samxon GC 2200uF 10V and even my stepbro did not want this thing to be turned on again, we tried it again. And - well, nothing
    But I'm not the type to give up soon, so I checked on web, if the AXP is supported with oldest bios and quess what - sure it is not. It took a while till we located what exact type of M810S boards this one is - there is a LOT's of different M810S versions - so we picked this one, witch PCB matched these PSB we have in hand and when we find one, it was clear that bios update is need to work with AXP - in case no-one updated the bios.

    http://www.pcchips.com.tw/PCCWeb/Downloads...nuID=35&LanID=0

    So, I tried add new battery and also flash new bios - the chip was small, modern one, 2MB size. Theoreticaly, because I won BIOS Saviour, not a rpoblem, right?

    http://trodas.wz.cz/index.php?act=ST&f=14&t=288

    But quess what! The chip that was used there is not supported by my favorite AWDflash tool, witch I love to use on my DFI with parameters like flash.exe hell3.bin /py/sn/LD/f/tiny/E/cc/cd/cp and simply refused to work. So I downloaded the original flashing utility, however this one refuse to work on different board and just crashed badly... Great

    Now what? Oh, my stepbro Duron one!
    And really - the board kicked in with Duron easily and after a flash it ran well with AXP as well! Sadly there is no overclocking past 133Mhz and it is not even possible to change the multiplier, so the Barton run instead of AXP 2500+ (166x11) as AXP 1700+ (133x11). Well, at least something

    Maybe someone can hack the bios for adding the possibility of increasing at least the multiplier - the Vcore regulator sure take it, when I stuff it with Samxon GC caps

    For recap you need:
    9x 2200uF 6.3V d10
    3x 1500uF 6.3V d10
    4x 1500uF 6.3V d8 (orginally 1000uF 10V Teapos)
    14x 120uF 16V+ d6 (orginally 100uF, but I proabably use Panny FM 120uF 16V caps)
    15x 22uF 16V+
    "It is dangerous to be right in matters on which the established authorities are wrong." - Voltaire
    "I believe that all the people who stand to profit by a war and who help provoke it should be shot on the first day it starts..." - Hemingway my config - my caps

    #2
    Re: PCchips M810S v7.0a board



    So, in the end I used all Samxon caps (Pannyes did not come...). I used GC for all the big caps (the first PSU filtering Vcore caps was 10V ones used, because at the time these G-Luxon blew at me, I did not have there 6.3V 2200uF GC in hand) and only for the small ones I used Samxon RS. 22uF Samxons did not make it yet, because manufacture delay... But at least the mobo is working and seems very reliable - at least as the Prime tests and folding goes Looks like the Samxon RS ones does good job for the little capacitances on mainboards. I tested also PCI, AGP, network as well, as prime CPU/ram stability and it worked well. WinXP installed and folding being two weeks ago
    There is only one slight problem - after power on or reboot sometimes the keyboard or mice don't work. Sometimes both not working, and sometimes all working. The board made such problems even before the caps exchange, so it is nothing new under the sun. Cleaning the connectors did not seems to help, so I think it is because of the cursed Teapo 22uF 16V caps - just there are right nearby the PS/2 signal port/traces and another are in place where the SB chip usualy are, so I do believe that after the years they are gone for good... I getting assured that it is caps because these PS/2 device missing problems happens even w/o any physical contact with the board itself, so it can't be just caps or dirty connector...
    Of course we are sure only when I finally exchange all remaining 15 pcs of 22uF 16V caps for the Samxon RS ones



    Last look on the chipset w/o heatsink:



    And now, there it is - new big shiny Revoltec heatsink. Even after week of folding the chipset w/o and heatsink was cool, because the Zalman CNPS 7000Cu I used partly blowing air on it, I think it is good to have a nice heatsink there for future overclokcing



    There is picture of the Samxons on my mobo. HoNY reported that these caps have at least 3x better parameters that the small ones that are usualy put into mainboards



    Sadly the problems with keyboard and mice is only increasng... Now I can't get even keaboard to work. Damn Teapos. Big Pope said he have some ideas that might fix these PS/2 problems, but I don't know. Only complete recap help there, I'm affraid. Neverless, there are hi-res pics of the PS/2 part:



    Also messages "CMOS Battery low" did not going away, so it is another reassureing that these Teapos are the damn culprit. I can't wait to kill them bye-bye!
    And I got a link for this page of moded bios for this board (and by better reading of the mainboard guide it looks like that I did not have M810S v7.0a, but a M810L v7.0a - because it has a network) and it looks like I can use the best bios there:http://www.lejabeach.com/M810/M810.htm
    Unfortunately ATM it is not possible to test the bios, because the keyboard don't working at all, however from what I read it looks like a miracle - the standard bios did not allow me ANY tweaking at all (only 100 or 133Mhz FSB and not one single ram timing settings), but this one has outstanding number of settings, not onyl complete timings for ram, but also drive settings as well, as very interesting overclocking up to 166Mhz FSB - witch my ram's sure did not make out
    Damn, it is a torture not being able to test it out
    "It is dangerous to be right in matters on which the established authorities are wrong." - Voltaire
    "I believe that all the people who stand to profit by a war and who help provoke it should be shot on the first day it starts..." - Hemingway my config - my caps

    Comment


      #3
      Re: PCchips M810S v7.0a board

      I don't think that keyboard problems are caused by bad caps. I sometimes replace the PS/2 connectors to fix keyboard and mouse problems - when the keyboard/mouse doesn't work reliably and moving its plug makes it better/worse.

      Comment


        #4
        Re: PCchips M810S v7.0a board

        Well, but in my case, I did not need to even slightly touch the PS/2 ports and suddently it work (after reboot/power up) or don't. Therefore (and also because I used Kontox spray already to clean out the connectors) I dubt the connectors itself are the trouble - but we find out very soon about it.

        I give up waiting to 22uF RS Samxons and asked for 47uF ones that shall be there in about a week, or so. If they did not help, I admit I was wrong

        And start looking where to buy the PS/2 combo (keyboard+mouse) connectors. Are they at sale somewhere in our small countries, Rainbow?
        "It is dangerous to be right in matters on which the established authorities are wrong." - Voltaire
        "I believe that all the people who stand to profit by a war and who help provoke it should be shot on the first day it starts..." - Hemingway my config - my caps

        Comment


          #5
          Re: PCchips M810S v7.0a board

          Dead board and a heat gun = proper connectors and free

          Comment


            #6
            Re: PCchips M810S v7.0a board

            Originally posted by trodas
            And start looking where to buy the PS/2 combo (keyboard+mouse) connectors. Are they at sale somewhere in our small countries, Rainbow?
            I don't think the problem will fix even replaced with a new PS/2 combo(keyboard+mouse) connector. The resistor(822) for PS/2 is the main problem, try to remove or replace it first.
            My SAMXON Capacitors Database HERE!!

            X-CON is a new brand for SAMXON's Polymer Capacitors.

            Comment


              #7
              Re: PCchips M810S v7.0a board

              Looking at the photo...isn't that a cold/broken solder joint on the wire placed in F1 position?

              Comment


                #8
                Re: PCchips M810S v7.0a board

                LOL - looks like everybody has different opinion why the keyboard/mouse on this mobo won't work anymore at all...

                BigPope seems to believe that the resistor RN5 (822) is up to blame.

                Rainbow focus on contacts and see the PS/2 port as guilty one (or the wire).

                trodas sticks with his belief that the cursed Teapo 15pcs 22uF 16V caps are the culprit.

                Why I think so? Because these ports sort-of working very recently. Yes, unreliably, but working. Yet after first full week of nonstop folding (no keyboard/mouse connected) it stoped working.
                So, could resistor damage in mere week itself (again, nothing connected) from unreliable to entierly not working, not even keyboard alone? I dubt it. Could be the connectors up to blame? I cleaned them out with spray, so, that hardly could be the case. Also, if they are the culprit, they still continue their unreliable work, and nothing else. Not get after week of folding completely dead. Bad contacts not acting like this, unless there is strong current going trough then and sparks happening often...

                That is why I insist that caps are up to the blame. Just look at them:



                Teapos. (the 4th in line is already recapped one, Samxon 100uF RS one) They are likely to be VERY old, I have no idea how old the board is, but some of the components looking even pre-2000
                First bioses are from the start of 2003, so maybe 2002? Dunno. There is only THIS on the mobo:



                So if anyone can say how old the board is - feel free to shoot. The 94 might suggest a 1994 year, but that is a little bit too extreme, IMHO?

                Anyway, the board stability is perfect, just the booting seems starting to need another reboot as the remaining Teapos losing their specs, IMHO. Damn. I wish the post is not so lazy, I first thought that I can use Pannyes there, yet they end up in Canada instead... So I waiting for 47uF RS Samxons from BigPope and the cursed post is trying on my nerves, aaaargh
                My board is dying and there is nothing I can do, thanks to one suxxka in Canada and another groups of suxxkas in Czech post or where the hell... Damn.

                Rainbow - I resoldered today the contact you did not like, but no change at all. In fact, it be beginning to be only worser...

                Oh, yes, I forget important thing to say - on power up, the keyboard (or keyboard and mice) blink all their led's correctly, only lather the mobo completely fail to recognize them and I can hit the Del as hard as I can, but no setup come - ever. Same for trying caps lock or num lock keys to see led indication of function.
                But once again, on power up, it blink the led's correctly, so no problemo should be there - except the god damned caps!

                And yep, any day we will know better what caused it - unless the post want make me mad, tough...

                But once the board is up and running - it stay running and folding with Samxons like everything was in the best possible older

                Last edited by trodas; 10-30-2006, 09:32 AM.
                "It is dangerous to be right in matters on which the established authorities are wrong." - Voltaire
                "I believe that all the people who stand to profit by a war and who help provoke it should be shot on the first day it starts..." - Hemingway my config - my caps

                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: PCchips M810S v7.0a board

                  "94V-0" is some flameproof rating. There is 00 datecode on the chipset so the board is probably dated 2000 or 2001.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Re: PCchips M810S v7.0a board

                    Flameproof?! LOL

                    Speaking of witch - the hot gun you mention for desoldering stuff like PS/2 ports - do it damage the mobo? Or make the PCB change color? Witch temperature you use? And how long?

                    /me thinking about adding another toy to my worktoys
                    "It is dangerous to be right in matters on which the established authorities are wrong." - Voltaire
                    "I believe that all the people who stand to profit by a war and who help provoke it should be shot on the first day it starts..." - Hemingway my config - my caps

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Re: PCchips M810S v7.0a board

                      I have Steinel HL1910E - it has a dial to adjust power. Using something around 6 or 7 (out of 10) for about 35-45 seconds I can remove almost anything from a board.
                      The problem is that it melts some types of plastic (like that one used for bottoms of jumper pins). Chips are much more resistant to heat - super I/O chips survive desoldering from a dead board and soldering to another one (that's not very reliable so some of the pins must be manually resoldered).

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Re: PCchips M810S v7.0a board

                        Rainbow - yep, I know these cheapo PVC types that melt just when solder look at them ... And sounds like I has to get myself a new toy! ยจ

                        Anyway, caps made it yesterdays (of course these from Big Pope, in just a week) so I soldered these 47uF 16V Samxons RS caps insted of these 22uF 16V Teapos:



                        Even at audio output they are:



                        But quess what - no change on the keyboard/mouse behaviour. That alone make me lost and solutions from Big Pope and Rainbow remain. I then opened a keaboard to check if the pins have connection to these on mainboard through the connectors and - all have, except one.
                        The bottom right one did not have connection. So I cleaned these again with Kontox spray and when I bend a very little the keaboard and mice left down pins (these go to the right down holes in the mobo connectors) it got contact and worked right away since

                        Hoooray!

                        So, Rainbow was right. The PS/2 connectors are the culprit. Bending a pin a very very little is all it need and frankly, there is a little cut into the holes in question, so someone before me must stuffed there something that make the pins inside wide and therefore losing the connection after few keaboard/mice attachments.

                        So I finally flashed the honey X superbios (damn, the number of settings there are overhelming, the bad thing is, that I don't know witch many of these means That indeed suxx

                        So, currently I got this beauty:



                        overclocked to 150 x 11 as that is the default multiplier of my oldie unlocked Barton 2500+ and battling trough the settings to archieve long time prime memory test stability At default settings it result in not memory, but "error reading the template file" error after 41min.
                        And the board react weird to wire multiplier changes, eg. I tried enforce 12.5 multi, but the mobo failed to boot into windows, dunno why. Maybe the instability get so much worser at fast clock?
                        It does not have multiplier nor Vcore changes in bios, tough by wire mod, 1.775Vcore setting resulted in 1.850Vcore - but no change in stability on the 12.5 multi, sadly. Let's first find out if 3-4-3-6 can help the poor PC133 rams maintain prime stability at 150Mhz
                        "It is dangerous to be right in matters on which the established authorities are wrong." - Voltaire
                        "I believe that all the people who stand to profit by a war and who help provoke it should be shot on the first day it starts..." - Hemingway my config - my caps

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Re: PCchips M810S v7.0a board

                          Originally posted by trodas
                          So, Rainbow was right. The PS/2 connectors are the culprit. Bending a pin a very very little is all it need and frankly, there is a little cut into the holes in question, so someone before me must stuffed there something that make the pins inside wide and therefore losing the connection after few keaboard/mice attachments.
                          Bad (damaged) PS/2 connectors usually show signs of "heavy usage" on the plastic.

                          Comment

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