Post help identifying capacitors here

[MrWizzard]

Originally Posted by lti

Nichicon HD 1000uF 16V

Nichicon decided to discontinue a lot of parts, so get then while you can. Nichicon's datasheet doesn't have that value marked as "not recommended for new designs," but Digikey does. Rubycon ZL looks like a decent alternative if they do disappear.

Thanks for the advice and help!

[PeteS in CA]

Originally Posted by MrWizzard

...

Here is a picture of them. I see the letters HD Z4 1000 16V and that is it. Does not have the writing on them that other capacitors have to identify them. Can someone help tell me what I should replace the bad ones with?

Thanks

Nippon Chemicon KY series is pretty much a direct cross.

[Wester547]

MrWizzard - a couple questions - what was the power supply powering the system seeing as how they are on the +12V VRM input of the CPU buck regulator? Did it run 24/7 for several years? I find it slightly worrying hearing about Nichicon’s HD series failing like that even though going by the “Z4” date codes (the 4th week of December, 2002, according to the JIS C 5101 standard) they are over 20 years old now and were in storage for years (not particularly great, especially for water base capacitors such as the HD series). Chemi-con KZE and Rubycon ZL should be a direct cross.

[momaka]

Originally Posted by Wester547

MrWizzard - a couple questions - what was the power supply powering the system seeing as how they are on the +12V VRM input of the CPU buck regulator? Did it run 24/7 for several years? I find it slightly worrying hearing about Nichicon’s HD series failing like that even though going by the “Z4” date codes (the 4th week of December, 2002, according to the JIS C 5101 standard) they are over 20 years old now and were in storage for years (not particularly great, especially for water base capacitors such as the HD series).

+1

O/P should definitely check out (and maybe show us) the power supply that was used. While it is possible that the caps "depolarized" if they sat too long in storage, I also agree that the PSU could be part of the reason they went - especially if it's not a new PSU but rather original with the system.

BTW, haven't seen you for a while, Wester547, but good to see you're back.

Originally Posted by Wester547

Chemi-con KZE and Rubycon ZL should be a direct cross.

Other alternatives are:
Rubycon ZLH, ZLQ, ZLK, and ZLG series
Panasonic FR, FM, and FS series
United Chemicon KZH and KZM series
Nichicon HW and HV series. HE will likely work OK too, even though they are not quite up to spec as the HD series (on the other hand, HE is more durable.)

Originally Posted by PeteS in CA

Nippon Chemicon KY series is pretty much a direct cross.

UCC KY is slightly lower spec (in terms of ESR and RC) compared to Nichicon HD / Ruby ZL / UCC KZE... but they've been proven to be very reliable and should work too. Just may not filter as much noise due to slightly higher ESR.

For what it's worth, UCC KY is a direct cross with Nichicon HE, Panasonic FK, and Rubycon YXG.

I usually go with whatever is cheapest on Digikey or Mouser... and Rubycon ZLH seems to be that series currently. Years ago, Mouser used to have Nichicon HD and UCC KZE very cheap (much cheaper than other series.)

I suppose for 1 or 2 caps for a motherboard, it doesn't really matter. But when buying for lots of stuff, it does "save" a few $ here and there, which I can then "re-use" for buying other caps and parts.

BTW, MrWizzard, consider replacing all of the 16V 1000 uF Nichicon HD caps at this point, since it's hard to say whether they blew from a possibly questionable PSU or just old age. Nichicon HD series are generally pretty reliable... though they are a little more "sensitive" (particularly with heat) compared to other series from Nichicon. Their next lower step series (HE) and higher step (HC) series are both more reliable for whatever reason.

While buying caps, also consider getting more caps for the rest of the motherboard. Better yet, start a new thread, post some pictures of the motherboard, and list what capacitors it has. Being an Intel i845 series, it probably doesn't have many other large caps, aside from the ones around the CPU. Look out for any brown caps with label "KZG", though - particularly if they are 6.3V 3300 uF. These are known to go bad too. Nichicon HM and HN series starting with date codes of H01_ _, H02_ _, H03_ _, and H04_ _ are also known to have reliability issues and should be replaced.
Anything 330 uF and up in capacitance is usually OK to leave as-is... though sometimes Intel likes to put some small caps around hot linear regulators (particularly in the area close to the AGP slot between the NB and SB). These may be bad too if you see the board darkened around the regulators and if these caps were in the vicinity.

[MrWizzard]

Originally Posted by PeteS in CA

Nippon Chemicon KY series is pretty much a direct cross.

Thanks from the first post this is what I ordered already. Hopefully they will work.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...6HwRTXu1qeNSWT

[MrWizzard]

Originally Posted by Wester547

MrWizzard - a couple questions - what was the power supply powering the system seeing as how they are on the +12V VRM input of the CPU buck regulator? Did it run 24/7 for several years? I find it slightly worrying hearing about Nichicon’s HD series failing like that even though going by the “Z4” date codes (the 4th week of December, 2002, according to the JIS C 5101 standard) they are over 20 years old now and were in storage for years (not particularly great, especially for water base capacitors such as the HD series). Chemi-con KZE and Rubycon ZL should be a direct cross.

I got this motherboard from ebay about 5 years ago built a windows 98 machine out of it that sits powered off except for maybe 5 days out of the year where I play a old game. So it had been in storage for about 6 months and when I turned it on about 20 seconds after power on there was 2 pops. The PSU I have it hooked up to is a Corsair CX500 that was new when I put this machine together.

I don't know if the original capacitors were Nichicon's just the ones I was suggested to replace them with.

[MrWizzard]

Originally Posted by momaka

+1

O/P should definitely check out (and maybe show us) the power supply that was used. While it is possible that the caps "depolarized" if they sat too long in storage, I also agree that the PSU could be part of the reason they went - especially if it's not a new PSU but rather original with the system.

BTW, haven't seen you for a while, Wester547, but good to see you're back.




Other alternatives are:
Rubycon ZLH, ZLQ, ZLK, and ZLG series
Panasonic FR, FM, and FS series
United Chemicon KZH and KZM series
Nichicon HW and HV series. HE will likely work OK too, even though they are not quite up to spec as the HD series (on the other hand, HE is more durable.)


UCC KY is slightly lower spec (in terms of ESR and RC) compared to Nichicon HD / Ruby ZL / UCC KZE... but they've been proven to be very reliable and should work too. Just may not filter as much noise due to slightly higher ESR.

For what it's worth, UCC KY is a direct cross with Nichicon HE, Panasonic FK, and Rubycon YXG.

I usually go with whatever is cheapest on Digikey or Mouser... and Rubycon ZLH seems to be that series currently. Years ago, Mouser used to have Nichicon HD and UCC KZE very cheap (much cheaper than other series.)

I suppose for 1 or 2 caps for a motherboard, it doesn't really matter. But when buying for lots of stuff, it does "save" a few $ here and there, which I can then "re-use" for buying other caps and parts.

BTW, MrWizzard, consider replacing all of the 16V 1000 uF Nichicon HD caps at this point, since it's hard to say whether they blew from a possibly questionable PSU or just old age. Nichicon HD series are generally pretty reliable... though they are a little more "sensitive" (particularly with heat) compared to other series from Nichicon. Their next lower step series (HE) and higher step (HC) series are both more reliable for whatever reason.

While buying caps, also consider getting more caps for the rest of the motherboard. Better yet, start a new thread, post some pictures of the motherboard, and list what capacitors it has. Being an Intel i845 series, it probably doesn't have many other large caps, aside from the ones around the CPU. Look out for any brown caps with label "KZG", though - particularly if they are 6.3V 3300 uF. These are known to go bad too. Nichicon HM and HN series starting with date codes of H01_ _, H02_ _, H03_ _, and H04_ _ are also known to have reliability issues and should be replaced.
Anything 330 uF and up in capacitance is usually OK to leave as-is... though sometimes Intel likes to put some small caps around hot linear regulators (particularly in the area close to the AGP slot between the NB and SB). These may be bad too if you see the board darkened around the regulators and if these caps were in the vicinity.

Thanks, hopefully the ones I linked above will work, I did read through other posts and figured I should replace all 4 of them 2 are bad two are fine. To keep them from depolarizing what do I need to do power the system on 1x a month? Thanks

[momaka]

Originally Posted by MrWizzard

Thanks, hopefully the ones I linked above will work, I did read through other posts and figured I should replace all 4 of them 2 are bad two are fine.

Well, they are not ideal replacements, but they should work OK. Might run into noise issues only if doing a really high CPU OC or something similar. Otherwise, it'll probably be fine for many years with these.

Originally Posted by MrWizzard

To keep them from depolarizing what do I need to do power the system on 1x a month? Thanks

No, most caps should be fine even if powered on very infrequently and sitting on the shelf for years. The Nichicon HD caps you had were probably just old and tired... and again, while they are fairly reliable, they aren't as durable as some other series from Nichicon. So in the end, their time just came, and that was that.

As for the Corsair CX500 PSU... it's probably too new at 5 years old to have bad caps. Of course, it never hurts to try to look through the fan vent to see if any of the caps inside look bulgy. And if the warranty is expired, feel free to crack it open. But again, I think it's still likely OK at this age. (Though if it has CapXon caps, you never know. )

[jayjr1105]

HI guys, trying to figure out the voltage of these caps I ordered a while back. Obviously 22uf but voltage is either 4 or 6.3. They are roughly 6mm tall and 5mm diameter.

[andrewsawesomr]

Are you sure it's not a 25 volt capacitor? From what I found, the capital E means 25 volts, whereas a lowercase j means 6.3 volts.

[jayjr1105]

Originally Posted by andrewsawesomr

Are you sure it's not a 25 volt capacitor? From what I found, the capital E means 25 volts, whereas a lowercase j means 6.3 volts.

You may be right, for some reason I assumed low voltage.

[andrewsawesomr]

In case you're wondering, here is the graphic I found:

[jiroy]

Originally Posted by andrewsawesomr

In case you're wondering, here is the graphic I found:

If you don't mention the specific company whom made those capacitors , it's worth nothing but for the same series and the same company , so only useful for those whom know which company they're .
Different markings by different companies are like hair on my head .. Sanyo or Panasonic for an example put only the specific voltage and capacitance directly plus a series name , while they don't put "Sanyo" or "Panasonic" .. And so on .

[jiroy]

Here's an example from Sanyo .. Notice that , among other criteria , height and dimensions are specific to the company itself ..

[andrewsawesomr]

BTW the capacitors that were asked about are Panasonic FK series. However, the letters for voltages work for Panasonic, Rubycon, and probably other brands.

[jiroy]

Originally Posted by andrewsawesomr

BTW the capacitors that were asked about are Panasonic FK series. However, the letters for voltages work for Panasonic, Rubycon, and probably other brands.

That's better ...

[alcatote]

Hi I've just found a "bad cap" on my Lenovo motherboard.
20230314_140959_kindlephoto-201782884.jpg

I've located the schematic for the board and found the cap value.
Screenshot_20230314-170303_kindlephoto-202104856.png

It's a 4.7UF 0603 6.3V 6K. I can find 4.7UF 0603 6.3V but I'm having problems finding the 6k version. Is it important?

[jayjr1105]

Is it bad or just acting bad because of the water damage/corrosion? Any 4.7uf 0603 is fine.

[alcatote]

I cleared the corrosion but it's still a dead short. Thanks for your help.

[Slimtedi23]

looking for this cant find anywhere any help will be appreciated thanks
ic v718279