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Kitchen range hood not turning on

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    Kitchen range hood not turning on

    I have a kitchen range hood that recently stopped working. Initially pressing any of the buttons would power on the unit and then immediately power off. I took out the control board and replaced all of the capacitors and everything worked like normal for a few days. Now the buttons on the range hood don't work. The range hood is definitely getting power. When I jump the pins on the back of the board I can get the fan to turn on. It will turn off when I jump the pins again. The LEDs that are on the switches will randomly faintly glow when the fan is on. Any ideas or recommendations on what may be wrong? I included a picture of the board in question.
    Attached Files

    #2
    Re: Kitchen range hood not turning on

    You likely still have a problem with the power supply/control board, maybe you missed a cap? or maybe there is a poor connection making the fault intermittent.

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      #3
      Re: Kitchen range hood not turning on

      Could you post a picture of the power supply board
      9 PC LCD Monitor
      6 LCD Flat Screen TV
      30 Desk Top Switching Power Supply
      10 Battery Charger Switching Power Supply for Power Tool
      6 18v Lithium Battery Power Boards for Tool Battery Packs
      1 XBox 360 Switching Power Supply and M Board
      25 Servo Drives 220/460 3 Phase
      6 De-soldering Station Switching Power Supply 1 Power Supply
      1 Dell Mother Board
      15 Computer Power Supply
      1 HP Printer Supply & Control Board * lighting finished it *


      These two repairs where found with a ESR meter...> Temp at 50*F then at 90*F the ESR reading more than 10%

      1 Over Head Crane Current Sensing Board ( VFD Failure Five Years Later )
      2 Hem Saw Computer Stack Board

      All of these had CAPs POOF
      All of the mosfet that are taken out by bad caps

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Kitchen range hood not turning on

        Originally posted by sam_sam_sam View Post
        Could you post a picture of the power supply board
        Here's the picture of the power supply board. I replaced 6 capacitors. I think that was all of them but I definitely could be wrong.
        Attached Files

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Kitchen range hood not turning on

          Originally posted by R_J View Post
          You likely still have a problem with the power supply/control board, maybe you missed a cap? or maybe there is a poor connection making the fault intermittent.
          I can check things over again. I'm not exactly great at soldering. It will definitely not be fun to take the range hood down by myself again.

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Kitchen range hood not turning on

            If you do take it back down again look at the ic chip and see if it is some type switching power supply regulator if it is and you replaced all the capacitors I would recommend replacing this ic chip also

            I could not make out the hole part number but it looks like VIPER something this is switching power supply regulator I would recommend replacing it
            Last edited by sam_sam_sam; 09-17-2020, 08:23 PM.
            9 PC LCD Monitor
            6 LCD Flat Screen TV
            30 Desk Top Switching Power Supply
            10 Battery Charger Switching Power Supply for Power Tool
            6 18v Lithium Battery Power Boards for Tool Battery Packs
            1 XBox 360 Switching Power Supply and M Board
            25 Servo Drives 220/460 3 Phase
            6 De-soldering Station Switching Power Supply 1 Power Supply
            1 Dell Mother Board
            15 Computer Power Supply
            1 HP Printer Supply & Control Board * lighting finished it *


            These two repairs where found with a ESR meter...> Temp at 50*F then at 90*F the ESR reading more than 10%

            1 Over Head Crane Current Sensing Board ( VFD Failure Five Years Later )
            2 Hem Saw Computer Stack Board

            All of these had CAPs POOF
            All of the mosfet that are taken out by bad caps

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Kitchen range hood not turning on

              Originally posted by jl22734 View Post
              Here's the picture of the power supply board. I replaced 6 capacitors. I think that was all of them but I definitely could be wrong.
              Is that a picture of the power supply board after you replaced the capacitors?
              If yes, it looks like the capacitors you used aren't low ESR/impedance type, which is usually necessary for switch-mode power supplies to get clean power. The caps you used look more like cheap no-name brands you get on Amazon, eBay, or the local store. Since you are in the US, Digikey and Mouser are usually the preferred places to get caps online. Badcaps.net/store may also have what you need in stock (and if you'd like to support the site.)

              List of suitable PSU caps (and series):
              https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...22&postcount=9

              That aside, going by the symptoms you're experiencing, the issue may or may not be capacitor-related. I suggest uploading a picture of the PSU board and any logic boards (i.e. not just the button board), so we can check them for bad solder joints too, which is another likely issue when it comes to intermittent problems.

              Originally posted by jl22734 View Post
              I can check things over again. I'm not exactly great at soldering.
              No worries. A large part of that may have to do with the equipment you have.

              If you don't have a temperature-controlled soldering station (well, why would you if you don't do repairs like this on a regular basis ) and you only have a regular wall plug-in type of soldering iron, then its power rating and the tip it uses can make a large difference.

              Generally, for single-layer or "light" multi-layer PCB work, you'll want to have a 25-35W soldering iron - again, only if it's regular plug-in wall type with no temperature regulation. 40W or more sometimes tend to run too hot and burn PCB traces, along with cause solder to oxidize very quickly and not stick to the tip or the board.

              If you're still having issue soldering, getting some flux might help. _Avoid_ "plumber's" fluxes (typically sold at home improvement stores) or any activated fluxes. Look for Rosin "no-clean" or RMA "no-clean" fluxes (most likely will have to get one online, as Radio Shack is no longer in business and the only other large store chain that I know to sell flux and soldering equipment is Microcenter.) You won't need a lot - small 10-30g tube/jar will last you for many repairs into the future.

              With flux, solder will stick a lot easier to the solder joints on the board and look much more shiny too.

              So if you're solder joints are not looking good or too "bloby", see how powerful your iron is and if it's 40W or more, clean the tip with a wet sponge, as well as don't wait until it heats to a point where the solder on the tip is turning dull (that means tips is running too hot.) And if you have flux, add a small amount of that to each solder joint that looks "dull" and then re-heat with the soldering iron.
              Last edited by momaka; 09-21-2020, 03:40 PM.

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