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LG 42PJ350 Clicking PSU (TL;DR inside)

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    LG 42PJ350 Clicking PSU (TL;DR inside)

    Hello!

    TL;DR: Replaced blown Q801, Q802 and fuse, but it didn't fix the problem.

    I'm trying to repair this TV, since it developed clicking symptom. I disconnected Y-SUS and Z-SUS boards, but PSU was still clicking, so then I was sure problem lies in PSU. When you plug it in, you can hear 2 clicks from relay and then one click when it shuts down. I found two shorted mosfets Q801, Q802 and blown fuse F801. I replaced those elements, but it's still doing the same.

    After some research, I found out resistors R108-113 need to be checked and sure one was showing resistance in Megaohms instead of 680K Ohm. Also replaced this one, but still clicking. I also replaced most of capacitors for peace of mind, even though they read low ESR.

    When I have just PSU and mainboard connected, I have all voltages on P813 connector (measured on P813 connector on outer-visible pins) for short time, until it clicks of.

    Voltages I get when I short pin 10 and pin 18 together to get into standby mode (as per manual):

    17V: 0V,
    5.1V: 0V,
    STBY_5V: 3.25V
    RL_ON: 0V,
    M_ON: 0V.

    Voltages I get when I short pin 13 and pin 15 with 100 Ohm resistor to get 17V and 5V lines running:

    17V: 17.1V,
    5.1V: 5.11V,
    STBY_5V: 5.19V,
    RL_ON: 0V,
    M_ON: 0V

    Voltages I get when PSU and mainboard connected (Y-SUS, Z-SUS disconnected) - only for short time:

    17V: 17.1V,
    5.1V: 5.11V,
    STBY_5V: 5.19V,
    RL_ON: 2.4V,
    M_ON: 3.25V

    What I found is I get between 290-320V on fuse F302 in standby, where I should get 160V. When switching on the TV, voltage on this fuse starts dropping to around 260V, then PSU switches off (relay clicks) and it jumps back to 290-320V. I should be getting 160V here in standby and 390V when running.

    I also found out chip on the back L6599AD gets very hot when I enable 17V and 5V lines, to the point I cannot touch it with a finger or I would get burned. I see it's maximum operating temperature is 150 degrees C, so maybe it is normal... or not? I desoldered this chip to verify if standby voltage on fuse F302 would drop to 160V, but it stayed the same.

    Here is service manual:

    Below is layout of the PSU.

    Please bare with me, I'm not electrician, nor do I have required knowledge to fix these SMPS's, but before I throw anything out, I try to fix it.

    Thanks!

    Oh, here is short explanation how this PSU works (from manual):

    AC Voltage is supplied to the SMPS Board at Connector SC101 from the AC Input assembly. Rectified by the Bridge
    rectifier D101 generates a primary B+. The Power factor circuit generates a Primary supply which can be read at Fuse F302
    160V. This primary voltage is routed through T301 and routed to the Standby 5V supply. The STBY5V (standby) is B+ for
    the Controller chip on the back of the board (IC701) on the SMPS and output at P813 pins 13 and 14 then sent to the Main
    board for Microprocessor (IC1) operation (STBY 3.49V RUN 5.23V).
    When the Microprocessor (IC1) on the Main Board receives a “POWER ON“ Command from either the Power button or
    the Remote IR Signal, it outputs a high (2.43V) called RL_ON at Pin 15 of P813. This command causes the Relay Circuit to
    close both Relays RL101 and RL103 routing AC to the Bridge Rectifier D101 which then routes the primary voltage to the
    PFC circuit (Power Factor Controller) 390V which can be read measuring voltage at Fuses F302 (390V) and F801 (389V)
    from “Hot”Ground. AC Detection (AC Det) is generated on the SMPS, by rectifying a small sample of the A/C Line and
    routed to the Controller (IC701) where it outputs at P813 pin 16(4.45V) and sent to P301 to the Main Board where it is
    sensed and monitored by the Main Microprocessor (IC1). If AC Detis missing the set will come on, but shut off in 10
    seconds.
    When RL_ON arrives, the run voltage +5V source becomes active and is sent to the Main Board via P813 (5.24V at
    pin 5, 6 and 7). The (Error Det) from the SMPS Board to the MainBoard can be measured at pin 8 of P813 (2.88V STBY
    and 4.93V RUN), but it is not used. The RL-ON command also turns on the 17V (Audio B+ 16.79V) which is also sent to the
    Main Board. The 17V Audio supply outputs to the Main board at P813 pins 1 and 2 and used for Audio processing and
    amplification.
    The next step is for the Microprocessor IC1 on the Main Board tooutput a high (3.27V) on M_ON Line to the SMPS at P813
    Pin 17 which is sensed by the Controller IC701, turning on the M5V line and outputs at P811 pins 9 and 10 to the Y-SUS
    board.
    The Controller (IC701) also uses the M_ON line to turn on the VA and the VS supplies. (Note there is no VS On Command
    in this set). VS is output at P811 to the Y-SUS board P201. (VA pins 6 and 7 and VS pins 1 and 2). Note: The Va is fused
    on the Y-SUS then routed out P209 to the X-Board Left. VS is also routed out of the Y-SUS P206 pins 1 and 2 to the Z-SUS
    P2.
    AUTO GND Pin 18 of P813: This pin is grounded on the Main board. When it is grounded, the Controller (IC701) works in
    the normal mode, meaning it turns on the power supply via commands sent from the Main board. When AUTO GND is
    floated (opened), it pulls up and places the Controller (IC701) into the Auto mode. In this state, the Controller turns on the power supply in stages automatically. A load is necessary to perform a good test of the SMPS if the Main board is suspect.
    Attached Files

    #2
    Re: LG 42PJ350 Clicking PSU (TL;DR inside)

    Check the tall white ceramic resistor next to the vs adjuster. Should have continuity AND read 10 ohms.

    Comment


      #3
      Re: LG 42PJ350 Clicking PSU (TL;DR inside)

      Already replaced R927 and R929. On this board they are 22 Ohms 5W. I also reflowed and added 60/40 solder to all transformer pins and elements mounted on heat sink in case of dry solder.

      Comment


        #4
        Re: LG 42PJ350 Clicking PSU (TL;DR inside)

        Just an update. TV is now back up and running. I replaced IC801 (L6599AD) which was overheating and now TV stays on. Ignore my standby voltage reading on fuse F302, because I was measuring from chassis ground and not on "hot" ground which is on PSU.

        So in short, if you have blown Q801, Q802, check IC801 if it's overheating.

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