samsung un60j620dafxza backlight led smd diode

[ca2014mp2]

I have a samsung un60j620dafxza with a many dead leds' for the backlight. What is the proper replacement for this tv. I'm looking to put them on myself, just need the right part to buy. I do have all the equipment to put on the smd's.

[Wilderone]

I haven't yet found a way to know precisely what LED's are without stripping the TV down.
When you find out let me know.
Best to buy an assortment kit off AliExpress vendor.

[neilc6]

Samsungs, unlike LGs, dont have a protection mode which shut down the backlights . I typically find 50 to 90% of leds bad and will do a full strip replacement. Repairing individual LEDs is a lot of work and the remaining ones are likely to fail. Shopjimmy can give you a clue what strips are in your tv if you search the full model number.

[ca2014mp2]

Yeah going new is 100 and only 10 bucks for loose smd. I have the right equipment for the job again just need to know what kind to get. The old ones that still work uses 770 mA at 30 volts so 23w or 4.3dc at 100mA at .43 Watts each with 7 each on a stick. So should I get 6v at 1 watt or what is best? Maybe 2 watt since they seem to blow more and just throttle them back to last longer? Idk that’s why I’m asking!

[ca2014mp2]

I’m leaning toward 3030 led but that’s me dumbly guessing . I know that’s never good so I’m asking the board!!

[neilc6]

The other issue is that the lenses have to sit perfectly both centered and height. Slightly off will create bright spots. A couple may not be too noticeable but if all the LEDs are off it's going to look terrible.

[nomoresonys]

Here's an ad with close up of the numbers on the strips, maybe someone can figure out what they are by that: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-BN9...0AAOSw8oxaw~Ql

[SLK001]

Where are your pictures? Without pictures, all WE are doing is "dumbly guessing". How did you get the voltages? I would suspect that the LEDs are around 3V devices. If they are being driven to 4.3V, that explains why you have so many failures. Is the large pad the CATHODE or ANODE? What is the size of the device?

It is incorrect to assume that Samsung only uses one kind of diode or another. Each set has to be evaluated as to the "flavor of the day" LED wise. Mostly, they used 3V one watt devices. Unless you plan on redesigning the strip PCB, you'll have to stick with what they originally used.

[ca2014mp2]

Originally Posted by neilc6

The other issue is that the lenses have to sit perfectly both centered and height. Slightly off will create bright spots. A couple may not be too noticeable but if all the LEDs are off it's going to look terrible.

Yes, I already anticipated that and have worked out the details. Ok so I know it will be hard and I thank you for your suggestion but I want to attempt it. I did take a laser measurements and found 43 thousands height over the led to the lens. I then made a shim that sits on top of the let as the lens is placed. after it sets with optically clear super glue I remove the shim and it's good. My testing shows variance but no different then what the stock lens are showing from OEM production. I'm confident this will not be an issue.
I just need the data on the best to get.

[ca2014mp2]

Originally Posted by nomoresonys

Here's an ad with close up of the numbers on the strips, maybe someone can figure out what they are by that: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-BN9...0AAOSw8oxaw~Ql

@nomoresonys - thanks for the link and the help. This link provided a clue as to the chips by following the part numbers around. Still haven't found anything yet, but every little bit helps.

Thanks and if you can think of anything else that would be helpful please pass it along.

[ca2014mp2]

Originally Posted by SLK001

Where are your pictures? Without pictures, all WE are doing is "dumbly guessing". How did you get the voltages? I would suspect that the LEDs are around 3V devices. If they are being driven to 4.3V, that explains why you have so many failures. Is the large pad the CATHODE or ANODE? What is the size of the device?

It is incorrect to assume that Samsung only uses one kind of diode or another. Each set has to be evaluated as to the "flavor of the day" LED wise. Mostly, they used 3V one watt devices. Unless you plan on redesigning the strip PCB, you'll have to stick with what they originally used.

@SLK001 -Yeah, I don't share your concern on what a picture will do but I took some anyway. I trust the picture of the diode will give you more information as to what it is. You know they don't have any numbers on them, as these don't either. As for "flavor of the day", I would also have to disagree as temperature size and ratings all play into it. As I will assume that you mean any led that is sourced from procurement, that I would agree with but they need to follow specifications and it's those specs that I'm looking for. Lastly, umm no I don't plan on redesigning the strip pcb.. umm yeah that idea is not helpful. You see I'm just trying to get an idea of the right LED to get.

[neilc6]

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100P...967087145.html

[jkb242]

Originally Posted by ca2014mp2

Yeah going new is 100 and only 10 bucks for loose smd. I have the right equipment for the job again just need to know what kind to get. The old ones that still work uses 770 mA at 30 volts so 23w or 4.3dc at 100mA at .43 Watts each with 7 each on a stick. So should I get 6v at 1 watt or what is best? Maybe 2 watt since they seem to blow more and just throttle them back to last longer? Idk that’s why I’m asking!

I don’t believe 3v/6v replacement LEDs for any strips being repaired is an option. It depends on the LED driver potential for the strips. You must replace with the same voltage LEDs. 30v?? 770ma? These are generally in series, so in that case the current is the same through each LED through the entire array.

[jkb242]

Just to comment on this subject i full agree replacement of all the strips is the fastest and easiest. For those who are familiar with SMD component soldering and choosing to replace the defective LEDs, hot air works great and it’s just a few seconds to remove the bad ones and another minute or so to reflow the replacement. Without familiarity of using hot air, however, there is no other solution unless one want to purchase a hot plate, cost more than the entire replacement areas of LEDs