Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP
@godnr - you need a capacitance meter or a DMM with a cap range.
>>And it's doubtful that I can test them without desoldering them.<<
You didn't read the last line of my post.
There is a large thread in here somewhere on soldering irons and stations. I think it's "recommend me a soldering station" or like that.
Aoyue is rebranded same as BlackJack from HKFA Co., LLC ®.
I have the BlackJack.
Hot air station is overkill for removing or replacing these caps. Some solder-wick and a large enough tip (size-wise not heat) will do fine. Or, you can get some Chip-Quik and go that way.
The trick is not to move them until the solder is liquid and you've popped the glue bond. Typical problem is movement of one end while the other is still bonded resulting in peeling the plating off and making it unusable. Get it flowing on both ends, then a gentle twisting action will break the glue.
Toast
@godnr - you need a capacitance meter or a DMM with a cap range.
>>And it's doubtful that I can test them without desoldering them.<<
You didn't read the last line of my post.
There is a large thread in here somewhere on soldering irons and stations. I think it's "recommend me a soldering station" or like that.
Aoyue is rebranded same as BlackJack from HKFA Co., LLC ®.
I have the BlackJack.
Hot air station is overkill for removing or replacing these caps. Some solder-wick and a large enough tip (size-wise not heat) will do fine. Or, you can get some Chip-Quik and go that way.
The trick is not to move them until the solder is liquid and you've popped the glue bond. Typical problem is movement of one end while the other is still bonded resulting in peeling the plating off and making it unusable. Get it flowing on both ends, then a gentle twisting action will break the glue.
Toast
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