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    Yamaha TSX-130 dim display

    The display on one of my two TSX-130's died after five years of being plugged in, i.e., the display had been on continuously for five years (i.e., the unit was not unused in storage. My second TSX-130 had been mostly unplugged for over five years and its display is fine.). Prior to dying totally the display had become dimmer. The fix was to replace C63 and C64 on the power supply board. The factory Jamicon SK capacitors were replaced with Nichicon VZ series (part# UVZ1J220MDD1TD). The Nichicon VZ series has a higher temperature rating than the Jamicon SK series and should, hopefully, last longer.

    ...o There were a couple indications that C63 and C64 were defective:
    ......o The voltage between pin1 and pin4 (C63) and between pin2 and pin4 (C64) of connector W5 (top right of power supply board when looking at the back side of the board; pin1 is toward the right) was:
    .........o 2.6VDC when the display is not working
    .........o 5.8VDC when the display is working
    .........o 6.6VDC per the Service Manual (but 5.8VDC is sufficient for a usable display)
    ......o The Dissipation Factor (d) of C63 and C64 was significantly out of spec (0.10 at start of life; 0.20 toward end of life). A DER EE DE-5000 revealed unacceptable d's of:
    .........o C63: d = 1.779
    .........o C64: d = 0.5

    ...o The Service Manual PDF is available at https://elektrotanya.com/yamaha_tsx1.../download.html.

    ...o To replace the capacitors disassemble the unit: see the SM for the special procedure for removing the CD cover plate and the opening the case (do NOT just remove the 7 bottom screws and attempt to remove the cover); disconnect all cables from the main board; removed both speaker boxes (each is secured by one screw); removed the main board (4 screws); unscrewed the CD assembly (4 screws; necessary in order to disconnect the cable which originates at the power supply board and connects to the board under the CD assembly). Alternatively, it might be possible to replace C63 and C64 in situ.

    ......o As I disconnected the ribbon cables from the main board, I wrote the connector number on the cable using a Sharpie. This is probably unnecessary because one cable is 20 pin and the other is 21 pin.

    .........o The two longer ribbon cables (MF120350 and MF121350) described in the Service Manual work as described in the SM and are available from yamaha24x7 dot com for $19.65 ($3.75 + $7.50 + $7.95 UPS shipping in USA). It turns out they were unnecessary for this repair but I ordered them in case it was necessary to diagnose the display board itself. That would be impossible to do without these two longer cables.

    ......o Note that the cable “connectors” on the power supply board are not removable; you must disconnect at the other end of the cable. Except the connector where the AC power comes into the board -- that one is a removable connector.

    ...o So far the repaired unit has operated fine since September 2015. (The delay in posting this repair info on BadCaps is because this capacitor fix was originally part of my Amazon review. But the Amazon TSX-130 web page is now gone. Fortunately I had archived the review as a .doc.)

    On a separate subject, some of the buttons (e.g., Vol+ and Vol-) on both of my units became unreliable (I rarely use the remote control). The original switches are Panasonic rated for 100,000 cycles. The problem switches were replaced with ones from the same Panasonic family but rated for 1,000,000 cycles: EVQ11K04K. All of the switches are the same and there are 20 switches per TSX-130.

    #2
    Re: Yamaha TSX-130 dim display

    Nice work documenting your repair and good to hear you got your unit working again.

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Yamaha TSX-130 dim display

      Hi,

      Thought I'd register, and post a quick reply to this thread to advise that I ran into exactly the same issue with my TSX-130 display, which was also fixed by replacing C63 & C64.

      Pity I didn't find this thread before I started my fault finding. Only came across it whilst waiting for my new caps to get delivered. I had also ordered up and replaced transistor pair Q12 & Q13, which wasn't necessary.

      Oh. And I replaced the caps with the power board still mounted to frame. Pretty straight forward.
      Last edited by chaser; 08-03-2018, 08:37 AM.

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Yamaha TSX-130 dim display

        Originally posted by eelliott View Post
        The display on one of my two TSX-130's died after five years of being plugged in, i.e., the display had been on continuously for five years (i.e., the unit was not unused in storage. My second TSX-130 had been mostly unplugged for over five years and its display is fine.). Prior to dying totally the display had become dimmer. The fix was to replace C63 and C64 on the power supply board. The factory Jamicon SK capacitors were replaced with Nichicon VZ series (part# UVZ1J220MDD1TD). The Nichicon VZ series has a higher temperature rating than the Jamicon SK series and should, hopefully, last longer.
        Thank you for your sharing, I had fixed my TSX-130's display after replace C63 and C64 with two audio capacitors.

        And I found that simply short circuit C63 and C64 can light up display also, but I'm not sure if it's ok for long-term use.

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Yamaha TSX-130 dim display

          Hi, does anyone have the part number for the power supply board? Mine is dead and looking for a replacement. Thanks in advance.

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Yamaha TSX-130 dim display

            I followed the instructions on this page and was able to fix the dim display issue on my Yamaha TSX-130. I've attached some images for reference.
            Attached Files

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Yamaha TSX-130 dim display

              Originally posted by eelliott View Post
              The display on one of my two TSX-130's died after five years of being plugged in, i.e., the display had been on continuously for five years (i.e., the unit was not unused in storage. My second TSX-130 had been mostly unplugged for over five years and its display is fine.). Prior to dying totally the display had become dimmer. The fix was to replace C63 and C64 on the power supply board. The factory Jamicon SK capacitors were replaced with Nichicon VZ series (part# UVZ1J220MDD1TD). The Nichicon VZ series has a higher temperature rating than the Jamicon SK series and should, hopefully, last longer.

              ...o There were a couple indications that C63 and C64 were defective:
              ......o The voltage between pin1 and pin4 (C63) and between pin2 and pin4 (C64) of connector W5 (top right of power supply board when looking at the back side of the board; pin1 is toward the right) was:
              .........o 2.6VDC when the display is not working
              .........o 5.8VDC when the display is working
              .........o 6.6VDC per the Service Manual (but 5.8VDC is sufficient for a usable display)
              ......o The Dissipation Factor (d) of C63 and C64 was significantly out of spec (0.10 at start of life; 0.20 toward end of life). A DER EE DE-5000 revealed unacceptable d's of:
              .........o C63: d = 1.779
              .........o C64: d = 0.5

              ...o The Service Manual PDF is available at https://elektrotanya.com/yamaha_tsx1.../download.html.

              ...o To replace the capacitors disassemble the unit: see the SM for the special procedure for removing the CD cover plate and the opening the case (do NOT just remove the 7 bottom screws and attempt to remove the cover); disconnect all cables from the main board; removed both speaker boxes (each is secured by one screw); removed the main board (4 screws); unscrewed the CD assembly (4 screws; necessary in order to disconnect the cable which originates at the power supply board and connects to the board under the CD assembly). Alternatively, it might be possible to replace C63 and C64 in situ.

              ......o As I disconnected the ribbon cables from the main board, I wrote the connector number on the cable using a Sharpie. This is probably unnecessary because one cable is 20 pin and the other is 21 pin.

              .........o The two longer ribbon cables (MF120350 and MF121350) described in the Service Manual work as described in the SM and are available from yamaha24x7 dot com for $19.65 ($3.75 + $7.50 + $7.95 UPS shipping in USA). It turns out they were unnecessary for this repair but I ordered them in case it was necessary to diagnose the display board itself. That would be impossible to do without these two longer cables.

              ......o Note that the cable “connectors” on the power supply board are not removable; you must disconnect at the other end of the cable. Except the connector where the AC power comes into the board -- that one is a removable connector.

              ...o So far the repaired unit has operated fine since September 2015. (The delay in posting this repair info on BadCaps is because this capacitor fix was originally part of my Amazon review. But the Amazon TSX-130 web page is now gone. Fortunately I had archived the review as a .doc.)

              On a separate subject, some of the buttons (e.g., Vol+ and Vol-) on both of my units became unreliable (I rarely use the remote control). The original switches are Panasonic rated for 100,000 cycles. The problem switches were replaced with ones from the same Panasonic family but rated for 1,000,000 cycles: EVQ11K04K. All of the switches are the same and there are 20 switches per TSX-130.

              Excellent post.
              My unit has the dim display fault and I have tried to source the referred to capacitors

              UVZ1J220MDD1TD

              But am struggling to find any in the UK

              I have found someone selling UVZ1J220MDD on eBay
              These seem pretty similar would these be suitable instead ?

              Thanks

              Ian

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Yamaha TSX-130 dim display

                UVZ1J220MDD is the same as the UVZ1J220MDD1TD; the 1TD refers to the packaging as Tape Dispensing or some such.

                Another alternative: Farnell in the UK stocks the Panasonic ECA1JHG220 (shown on bottom left of the linked page), which Farnell says is equivalent.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: Yamaha TSX-130 dim display

                  Originally posted by Ian mountain View Post
                  Excellent post.
                  My unit has the dim display fault and I have tried to source the referred to capacitors

                  UVZ1J220MDD1TD

                  But am struggling to find any in the UK
                  That part number suggests Nichicon VZ series.

                  You don't necessarily need to get Nichicon VZ, or even that particular part number to get the repair going.

                  Since VZ is general purpose and worked fine, then just about any other 105C-rated cap will work fine too. Of course, my suggestion is to stick with the known and tried-true Japanese brands: Panasonic, Rubycon, Nichicon, United Chemicon, and Suncon (formerly Sanyo). Just match the capacity and voltage in this application, since ESR and ripple current don't seem to matter much.

                  I also suggest to -avoid- eBay and Amazon, or other cheap China-supplied e-stores, as they may carry counterfeit Japanese capacitors. Sticking with vendors that stock genuine parts like Digikey, Mouser, Farnel, and RS Components, is recommended. Badcaps.net also has a cap store and ships to Europe. And then there's Behemoth, a member here on the forum that sells caps too. He is based in Czech Republic.
                  Last edited by momaka; 07-19-2020, 07:59 PM.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Re: Yamaha TSX-130 dim display

                    I followed the above and it worked for me too. An easy fix, though my display seems a little dimmer than when it was first purchased.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Re: Yamaha TSX-130 dim display

                      Very usefull information to get the TSX to life again. I think of getting the c63 & c64 also.
                      It looks very simple But.. I'am a bit of a rookie and I need some advice for the removal, cleaning and reassemble of the C63 and C64.

                      What's the best way to remove the old ones and clean the board?
                      Then just solder the new ones in or do I need additional attention for something?

                      Thanx in advance!

                      Bob

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Re: Yamaha TSX-130 dim display

                        Originally posted by Bspsar View Post
                        What's the best way to remove the old ones and clean the board?
                        I can't say there is a "best" way, as different people can have slightly different soldering/desoldering techniques.

                        Personally, I like to use this method myself:
                        https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...7&postcount=23
                        Just a note about this method: if the components you're trying to desolder have leads bent close to the board, the above technique may sometimes make the component damage the PCB as the component lead pulls through. To avoid that, you may have to heat and straighten the component leads first (I do it with a small flat head screwdriver) before using the above method.

                        After this, I clean the holes by inserting a pin/needle in them on one side and melting the solder on the other side with the soldering iron.

                        Originally posted by Bspsar View Post
                        Then just solder the new ones in or do I need additional attention for something?
                        Nope, just solder the new caps and clean the flux from the board with IPA (if you want - regular rosin solder fluxes can usually be left on there, but any RMA fluxes should be cleaned off if that's what you used.)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Re: Yamaha TSX-130 dim display

                          Hi all,

                          thanks for the instructions. I replaced C63 and C64 on my daughter's TSX-130. The display had been dead for some months before. Now, it is back but very dim, hardly readable in full daylight. I tried twice, putting in new caps, but with the same result. Did someone else see this problem? Any ideas?

                          Regards,
                          Frank

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Re: Yamaha TSX-130 dim display

                            C63 & C64 are for the FL display heater. Check the +VP voltage, it should be around +33 volts, you may need to replace C22, C66, C60 or maybe C768, C767 & C766 on the display board

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Re: Yamaha TSX-130 dim display

                              Replaced listed caps + C62-100uF@16V and C49-100uF@25V. CD now not reading. No Disc message constantly. Any other suggestions. Display is plenty bright now. All were down in value with high ESRs. Equivalent Series Resistance.

                              Comment


                                #16
                                Re: Yamaha TSX-130 dim display

                                Hi all, and praise be unto eelliott for such an excellent and detailed guide!

                                I can confirm that it is quite possible to change the two caps in question without fully dismantling the unit. The two main ribbon cables cross over, so you can remove the screws from the underside, remove the front of the CD tray, lift the top of the case up and then rotate it 180º to give you enough cable length for sufficient access.

                                I decided to record my repair and post it on YouTube so you can see this method for yourself.

                                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3DxWawC10c

                                I bought way more of the caps than I needed so feel free to PM me if you're in Australia and would like me to mail you a few.

                                Comment


                                  #17
                                  Re: Yamaha TSX-130 dim display

                                  Originally posted by Long Peter View Post
                                  I decided to record my repair and post it on YouTube so you can see this method for yourself.

                                  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3DxWawC10c
                                  Nice video!
                                  And really cool that you linked back to this thread and gave credit to the person that posted the repair. Very few people do this nowadays, so big THANK YOU!
                                  Also like the labeling you have on your toolbox.

                                  The only part that made me cringe slightly was when you drilled the holes to clear them from solder - be careful with that method, as it can ruin the plating / vias that connects the two (or more) layers on the board. This is especially more so the case with computer motherboards.

                                  Some people prefer to use wick to clean the holes, others a solder sucker or pump. I go with the simpler (and very dependable) method of using a sewing needle. Just heat the solder on one side and push through the other side of the hole with the needle. Once the needle goes through, move the iron away, then wiggle the needle a little diagonally as the solder is cooling, but don't pull it out yet. Give it maybe 2-3 seconds for the solder to cool down fully (as leaded solder can take a bit longer). Then pull the needle out, and the hole should be big enough to pass the capacitor lead through. This method is much safer for cleaning solder without any risk for damage to the board.

                                  BTW, the ride-able exercise bike was a really funny and cool idea!
                                  Keep up the good work with the videos - you channel looks good.
                                  Last edited by momaka; 05-10-2021, 02:57 AM.

                                  Comment


                                    #18
                                    Re: Yamaha TSX-130 dim display

                                    Originally posted by momaka View Post
                                    Nice video!
                                    And really cool that you…
                                    Thanks for all the kind words

                                    I would have felt like a prong if I didn't link back. I couldn't believe that exactly the repair I was looking for was only a Google search away. Eelliott deserves all the credit!

                                    That's a good point about drilling the vias out. I was more worried about leaving swarf in the unit. Will try the needle trick next time. I had tried solder wick (you can see me get it out of the toolbox) but it just wasn't taking. A solder sucker would be handy.

                                    I'm rather proud of the toolbox and exercise trike, despite the latter serving no purpose beyond being a humorous was of space

                                    Comment

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