Honda generator inverter 230v 1900uf caps

[JFA]

I have a Honda generator with a faulty inverter. The inverter is encased in black resin with just the tops of a dozen small electrolytic caps and four 230v 1900uf electrolytic caps poking out of the top of the resin. The plastic cover of one of the 230v caps was burned off but there was no sign of bulging and the capacitor can was in good condition. The heat source looks likely to be from the outside rather than from the component itself but since the inverter is basically unrepairable, I chiseled away and removed the capacitor. I had to destroy the capacitor so had no chance to test it but it was still wet inside, not dried out or swelled. I now have the terminals exposed and can replace the cap if I consider it worth it; my dilemma. A replacement cap is around $100 and I have no way of determining positive from negative connection but a replacement inverter is $1500.
So, if I try a new capacitor but connected it backwards, will it be destroyed?
What is the general consensus, should I risk $100 to save $1500?
Thanks for any suggestions or ideas.

[petehall347]

i can find those much cheaper than that

[stj]

if you removed the cap, isnt the polarity marked on the board?

[sam_sam_sam]

Originally Posted by stj

if you removed the cap, isnt the polarity marked on the board?

Do not count on that being the case because I have seen a lot of boards not marked or it might not be correct ( this is rare but happens) and it is even worse when they are potted

[CapLeaker]

Originally Posted by JFA

I have a Honda generator with a faulty inverter. The inverter is encased in black resin with just the tops of a dozen small electrolytic caps and four 230v 1900uf electrolytic caps poking out of the top of the resin. The plastic cover of one of the 230v caps was burned off but there was no sign of bulging and the capacitor can was in good condition. The heat source looks likely to be from the outside rather than from the component itself but since the inverter is basically unrepairable, I chiseled away and removed the capacitor. I had to destroy the capacitor so had no chance to test it but it was still wet inside, not dried out or swelled. I now have the terminals exposed and can replace the cap if I consider it worth it; my dilemma. A replacement cap is around $100 and I have no way of determining positive from negative connection but a replacement inverter is $1500.
So, if I try a new capacitor but connected it backwards, will it be destroyed?
What is the general consensus, should I risk $100 to save $1500?
Thanks for any suggestions or ideas.

To tell you the truth, the odds don't look good that just this capacitor is the sole problem unless it is shorted inside. I would expect at least 2 of them 4 caps to be screwed, not just a single one.

However, look at the bright side:
Everything is covered in epoxy, makes it a very difficult and time consuming repair to start with.
A cap isn't that bad to fix even it is epoxied. Cut the top lid and "unwind" the capacitor. DO NOT SNIP the old two legs that go from the cap into the main board. You need them later to solder carefully your new cap to, either with or without wires.

[JFA]

The board is not exposed, just the two tags that were part of the capacitor. The inverter just makes that squealing sound that inverters seem to make to indicate a fault. Removing the cap made no difference to the faulty inverter.

[CapLeaker]

I figured it wouldn’t be the problem.

[JFA]

I’ve decided not to waste money on the off chance that this one capacitor is the problem.