Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

[Mad_Professor]

I got a friend with LFX25960SW, it will dispenser ice but not water.



I checked the tube for blockage by disconnecting and blowing through it and it was fine and obviously water is getting to the ice maker.

I check the water valves which has three in the system, one for ice, one for water and one for a primary (pilot) shut off. Obviously primary shutoff works fine and ice works fine too.

After ohm testing the coils on the water valves that come out to 360 ohms each, I tested for voltage. Well I get no voltage on ice solenoid which I shouldn't get but on the water solenoid I get 104v on purple and on white!??!?!, obviously something is shorted. Also when water tube is disconnected from water valve it doesn't trigger the pilot valve either, but every time I switch to ice the line is full of water.

I checked the dispenser lever switch, it tested ok.

Now if you go to the diagram on page 5 of the service manual look at "PWB ASSY, DISPENSER," it's not accurate some of the connectors are reversed.
But it does wire in the same manner.

White/purple/black/skyblue/red should be on or off depending on the setting. If I select water then obviously red/black/skyblue/white should be off. I'm not sure how the dispenser door and ice water valve work, if black handles the dispenser door or if red does, because the ice water valve has red and blue wires, but a black wires goes to sole. cube on the board and blue is "N" for load/neutral/grounded conductor. I didn't get a closer look at the dispenser door, I should have.





Well here's the problem, all the relays are closed except for the auger in the ice maker, when you remove power they return to their open state but apply power and all the relays close. I removed the DISPLAY assembly connection to this small board and all the relays are still closed. obviously it shouldn't be. My guess is an IC crap out. I tested the zeners and diodes then resistors which leaves two small IC (ic2 ic3), cc1 cc2 and a 7 circuit darlington transistor.

My money's on the darlington transistor.
I can smell what appears to be electronic burning odor residue, strongest around the darlington transistor.

It's KID65003AP


Am I correct to assume this is the fault?

My guess for a replacement would be one of the these?
http://www.digikey.com/product-searc...=0&pageSize=25

[joshnz]

Re: Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

Put meter on diode check put black probe on pin 8 of the KID65003AP and test pin 16 to 10 for shorts.
then put red probe on pin 9 and with black check pins 10 to 16 for shorts.

[Mad_Professor]

Re: Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

Well I can't get a good reading, I get 742 ohms for 11,12,13,16 going from common pin 9 to them. I get 360 ohms from 9 to 10. 14,15 are not connected and get infinity on them. Going from ground to 10-16 all open unless I switch the probes around then I get 749 ohms. Seems like the relays are throwing my readings off. But then again if it going through the relays then it's not shorted correct? so whats causing it to close relays when it's disconnected from the display/logic board?

[Mad_Professor]

Re: Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

I just had a random brain fart, but uh, if I disconnect the display/logic board which provides 5v and 12v needed for the relays and ICs then shouldn't this not work at all?

[joshnz]

Re: Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

I just had a random brain fart, but uh, if I disconnect the display/logic board which provides 5v and 12v needed for the relays and ICs then shouldn't this not work at all?

Exactly with that connector disconnected nothing will happen.

Your test results show the chip to be ok there are protection diodes built in to it.
I think that is what your meter is picking up.

the connector that goes to logic board has
1. 12 volt power for relays
2. 5 volt for "I/M-S S/W" and "PADS/W" sense fror something
3. ground for 12v and 5v and control signals and sense
4. AU, auger motor control
5. SO, sole cube
6. W-V, water valve
7. S-D, sol - disp
8. D-L, dispenser lamp
9. HTR, heater
10. PADS/W, sense for something
11. I/M-P S/W, sense for something

[joshnz]

Re: Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

void post worked out how to get water below

[joshnz]

Re: Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

and the two sense wire are for switches

[budm]

Re: Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

So what AC voltage do you get at the 'N' Neutral pin and the 'WATER VALVE' PIN on the board when water dispenser switch is activate. What color wire is on that WATER VALVE connector on the circuit board. The water solenoid should have one of the terminal connected the N neutral.

[joshnz]

Re: Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

When water dispense is on and trying to fill cup you should have 115vac between red of con 3 and black of con2.
Do you get that?

[joshnz]

Re: Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

ninja posted by budm

[joshnz]

Re: Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

So what AC voltage do you get at the 'N' Neutral pin and the 'WATER VALVE' PIN on the board when water dispenser switch is activate. What color wire is on that WATER VALVE connector on the circuit board. The water solenoid should have one of the terminal connected the N neutral.

he is looking for line voltage between red on con 3 and black on con 2

aka N on con 2 and sol disp on con 3

water valve is to fill ice tray.

[Mad_Professor]

Re: Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

There's two water valves in the fridge door, ice valve had red and blue, water valve has purple and white. Purple goes directly to this board and the white does not ground but goes to the dispenser switch but also to "PADS" on the board. The dispenser switch also has blue connected and I'm pretty sure that goes back to neutral. Since PADS doesn't have a relay and is handled by ic2 I'm not sure how this works, if I select water, ic1 pin 12 should trigger ry3 which will close and provide 120vac to the water valve solenoid assuming that the dispenser switch closes and completes the connection to ground/netural, but why am I getting 104v through white???

To answer your question, I get exactly 104vac on all relays when they should be open and no power on the output, but that's not whats happening, I assume they are open since connector that supply 5v/12v is disconnected, so something is backfeeding 104v in the fridge and I don't know where.

I'm going back out sometime this week, maybe tomorrow after work and ohm out the wires, test the board pin out, test the hardness live and see which one has the crappy 104v coming back through, worst case disconnect everything and plug one thing in at a time.


Also ic2 ic3 are NEC "2561 DJ643"

[joshnz]

Re: Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

dispenser level switch provides the connection to neutral for
ice tray water aka water pilot valve marked as water valve on con 2
solenoid cube marked as sole cube on con 2
auger motor.

for water dispense solenoid one side should be connected to neutral and other to sole disp on con 3.

please check neutral is connected between plug of fridge and N of con 1

[joshnz]

Re: Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

ic2 ic3 provide feedback to display board tells it whether ice maker is on via ice maker power switch and if ice is full via dispenser lever switch.

white has a connection via D2 D3 IC2 R1 to line.
white is only connected to Neutral when dispenser lever switch is closed, otherwise it floats.

[Mad_Professor]

Re: Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

Ok so that's what I thought, it floats and allows voltage to water valve, when the dispenser switch is closed both are grounded completing both circuits, then the water valve solenoid is just bad? The only way to test that is to wire directly to a plug and connect to an outlet and see if it actually works.

also I will test supply voltage to make sure it's not just low voltage issue.

Edit: I think the ic2 is to signal the display/logic board when the dispenser lever switch is depressed by the user, to send voltage to the darlington transistor array which then engages relays ry1 and ry4 which opens the dispenser door, starts auger motor. The cube solenoid is probably for it's water valve, since the ice maker is a stand alone unit only sends a signal to this board when the trays are empty and needs water.

[joshnz]

Re: Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

ok so for water to work ry 3 needs to be closed and dispenser lever switch needs to be closed.
do you get line voltage across the water valve when there should be?

It might a good idea to test the solenoid to see if it operates.
you can also connect a low wattage 110 volt bulb across Purple and white in place of the solenoid if lights when water should come out the control is working.

[budm]

Re: Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

"I get exactly 104vac on all relays" You can see that the Line (120V) is fed to the all the relay contacts, the output contacts then are routed to the output connectors on the board, so that is why I asked to check the voltage on the Line and Neutral on the board to see if you are getting 120V @L & N, and N and all the relay out puts.
"ninja posted by budm"????????

[Mad_Professor]

Re: Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

Well reinstalled board, test water solenoid in the door for power. When pedal is depressed, it reads 120v so that's good, disconnected the tubes and depress the pedal again but no water coming from main. I pulled the fridge out more and remove the floor panel to gain access to the "inlet valve" (what it says on the back of the fridge.)

Turns out this is a double solenoid single valve vs the door which is a double solenoid double valve. I tested the solenoid for voltage and had someone depress the pedal on the front, got 120v as well but I heard a vibration coming from tube, disconnected the tube no noise, put my ear up against the solenoid heard a faint buzz, no water coming out.

So inlet valve is bad, water/ice valve in door ok.

Sad thing the part is hard to find, but we found a substitute.

When that comes, I'll update this thread if it fixed the problem or not.

[budm]

Re: Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

I get most of my appliances repair parts from appliancepro.com

[Mad_Professor]

Re: Fridge ice disp ok, water no go!

ok so I got the valve but it did not come with the wiring harness as shown in the picture. In the picture it shows the wiring harness with a blue box, black wires coming from the solenoid to this blue box and with purple and red tied to together in the connector and ground(blue) to ground. After examining other photos from various sites, I found one that show a clear picture of the blue box and it's a film capacitor mkp wk1118. Now why would a solenoid need a film capacitor? doesn't make any sense.

Anyways I took the old hardness and spliced it, hot connector to hot connector then to sliding connector and ground to ground, water valve worked with no problems, but still curious on why a solenoid would need a mkp when there is a relay upstream that connects it directly to 120v line.

Guy is happy that he has water working.