Its pretty hard to ID them, most T3 google images show the battery cables under the LCD, but there are still a couple of differences to mess it all up.
Anyhow, great! I'll likely test with the 8MHz first. And while waiting for the rotary encoder, can I go ahead and flash the test file first? Will basic functions still work with the std button?
Just in case, I need to revert or reflash back to recover... are there any dump of the original factory default software/firmware that came with these T3/T4?
you can put a header on with jump wires - unfortunatly they didnt route the tracks to any pads for one.
i'v said this to people before, but put a good 16MHz crystal on it.
you will increase the accuracy, and enable the crystal/resonator tester.
(needs a software upgrade.)
you can put a header on with jump wires - unfortunatly they didnt route the tracks to any pads for one.
i'v said this to people before, but put a good 16MHz crystal on it.
you will increase the accuracy, and enable the crystal/resonator tester.
(needs a software upgrade.)
Before I reprogram my T3, I traced the programming pad and found the RESET pad is not connected to the atmega328 reset pin. Instead it goes to pin 30 (rxd/pcint16/pd0) see attached pic.
Shouldn't the programming pad RESET be connected to pin 29 (RESET)?
Before I reprogram my T3, I traced the programming pad and found the RESET pad is not connected to the atmega328 reset pin. Instead it goes to pin 30 (rxd/pcint16/pd0) see attached pic.
Shouldn't the programming pad RESET be connected to pin 29 (RESET)?
can you double-check those pads, they use that to program them after assembly.
about that video - NEVER BEND THE FUCKING WIRES OVER.
it makes stuff much harder to remove again without damaging the pads.
damn i hate these amateur video's teaching people bad stuff.
and make sure you use 99% IPA to remove all the flux afterwards.
it may not seem important usually, but on something like this, it can effect the readings!
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