Re: Bakon 950D "Extra Crispy" mod (19->24 Volt)
Did this mod today with my Yaxun YX-8034, it looked identical to the bakon 950d inside except the yaxun one has a way simpler power supply, no OVP, just had to put a 10~k resistor in parallel with another resistor close to a SOT-23 package no-name component (can't find the part number anywhere on the internet), which was connected to the optocoupler on the output side to get the PSU up to 24v.
After that i just did the 5v1 zener diode modification to the controller board since this one *is* identical to the one on the bakon 950d
Working perfectly after recalibration!
Might put a little fan inside to keep it cool since i can feel it get warm from the outside, and also might mod it to turn off/go in standby when in the stand later on, since the controller board has an atmega8 that might be easy to program
Also noticed the controller board has a row 6 unpopulated through hole pads, considering one of the pins on it is connected to one of the buttons (can't see where the other tracks go), i'd assume it's made to be fitted with a rotary encoder, the case has a hole in there and everything right in front and above the pads so a module could fit in perfectly, might look into that.
Re: Bakon 950D "Extra Crispy" mod (19->24 Volt)
120V and yes, but sadly the PSU is now dead lol.
They miswired the hot and neutral on the plug, so the switch was only cutting off the neutral.. I had it plugged in while working on it (to ground the tip), the controller was powered by another PSU and was planning to try replacing R10 with 100k but then I touched it and it shorted it to ground and it took some traces and D4 with it, I tried to bodge wire the missing tracks but no go, it's blowing the fuse now and there's a short somewhere.
Maybe the rectifier bridge is toasted? I'm now just tempted to use an external PSU and call it a day lol or maybe buy an off the shelf open frame 24V PSU, but it's not economically sound, may as well upgrade to an STM32 OLED T12 station instead hah
Don't do that again. The 78xx series have been around longer than I've been, and they're super stable and super reliable. There's gotta be a reason why they're still in active production.
Everything else looks good, but you had no business messing with that linear regulator. It does the job it was intended to, no issues.
Just to lower the overall heat inside the enclosure lol
I'm running into the problem where it shuts off after a while and I have to wait for the capacitor to discharge before I can turn it back on, is that the OVP kicking in? Should I try to lower R11? Or an issue with the optocoupler? It might have done that even before I did the 23V mod.
I have been powering the iron/controller board with an external 24V supply and it works fine (with the same MP2315 buck converter).
I've swapped the TL431, put in a Y cap and the 35V capacitors so far lol
I swapped the 7805 for a switcher, it's an OSKJ board based on the MP2315 (max 24V lol)
Don't do that again. The 78xx series have been around longer than I've been, and they're super stable and super reliable. There's gotta be a reason why they're still in active production.
Everything else looks good, but you had no business messing with that linear regulator. It does the job it was intended to, no issues.
Re: Bakon 950D "Extra Crispy" mod (19->24 Volt)
I swapped the 7805 for a switcher, it's an OSKJ board based on the MP2315 (max 24V lol)
The caps I have are Rubycon ZLH 25V, hope they don't blow up, I'm gonna order the FS-A eeufs1v102L as spares
I had some 20k 0805 SMD resistors so I used those
R11 swapped for 20k
R24 20k parallel (found out I had some 362 afterwards, oh well)
Measured 23V output.
To fit the board underneath, I had to trim out the bottom wall mounting keyhole flush
Converter have 20uF on both input and output, so I just added back the 22uF on the output (notice the orientation C16 + and C15 -)
Ripped off a trace, the Weller I borrowed wasn't such a joy to use lol
Trace have been cut
As for the R26 2ohm resistor, can it be removed or not? How about the D7?
so,
R11 - 27k(OVP) change to 20k 0805
R24 - 4.42k(voltage reference) change to 3.4k 0805
i'v been running 24v for several years and not damaged the optocoupler
the caps you need are panasonic eeufs1v102L
you need a 5v1 zener diode on the control board,
here is a couple of photo's - with a track cut and then bridged by the diode
First thing I did was to replace the caps, I had some spare ones from previous recapping job, wasn't planning on getting SMD resistors, I just placed 2 orders with Digikey but your mod looks so neat haha that I may end up spending another $100 for free shipping, could use some extra PSUs...wife is going to kill me
What should I be looking for the Y class cap?
What about the 7805? Have you done anything to it?
I think i'm gonna swap it for a small switcher and get rid of the R26 2R and VD7 zener diode
I ended up with R24 ~3.4kOhm and R11 21.8kOhm. No need to change current limiting resistor in primary, maybe with 110V input it is necessary but for European mains voltage, no issue.
Old thread, I know, but one can always hope for a reply
I plan to make this change: I really like my 950D, but it's a bit anemic for some of the soldering I do, and I'm forced to keep cranking up the temperature, which is a bad idea
I live in the USA, so 110V mains here. Which one is the current limiting resistor, and what values should I try to use?
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