Brother “P-Touch” PT-2040SC modified with metal hydrate AAA 700 milliampere hour battery pack originally for cell phone

[sam_sam_sam]

I have gotten so tired of battery cells leaking and it happen to this device and it is not very old I had bought these battery packs from The Electronic Goldmine for $1.00 a pack when they had a sale and I am putting 3 packs to good use so I do have to deal with leaking battery cells I am over it

I bought the label maker at Sam Club a while back for $29.99 it come with 4 cartridges and they had them on sale again for $29.99 again so I bought another one because I was not sure if I was going to able to get it to work on the battery cells that I had planned on using for this particular project

Right now I have the battery pack on charge at 250 milliamperes and when it gets finished I going to put it back together and wait for some Lipo 4 BMS protection boards to come in from China and use it to charge the battery cells in the battery pack and I will be ready to use it with out having to worry about battery cells leaking or just plain dead

More pictures later on today when the battery pack is finished charging

[sam_sam_sam]

Here are some pictures of the battery cells holder and how I glued the battery cells in place
Yes they are Panasonic brand battery cells from Japan and they seem to be very close to there rated milliamperes I do not know how long they have been in storage because I when I checked the voltage on them they were at 0.8<-something

So they seem to be ok and they have not degraded very much
Well the battery cells tested better than what they had on the battery pack says that they 700 milliamperes but my battery testing machine shows 1476 milliamperes instead so this is even better than what I expected it to be

The battery pack had 3 battery cells in series for a voltage of 7.6 and fully charged is 9.0 volts and alkaline battery voltage is nearly 10.0 volts and I am not sure exactly what voltage the low voltage icon comes on

So I removed one battery cell from each battery pack so I have 3 loose battery cells that I have rejoin back together and probably more battery cells for another battery modification pack I not sure exactly what project I going to do next I but I will probably post some pictures of it as well

I have a battery pack that has a solar panel on top of it and two pouch battery cells that are swollen so I think I going to fill the space with some of these battery packs and put this back in to service again as well

Here is the website link to where I bought these battery packs from

https://theelectronicgoldmine.com/co...roducts/g23904

[sam_sam_sam]

I did some calculations and I going to have use a normal 18650 BMS protection board because if I use a Lipo 4 type of BMS board the metal hydrate battery cells it will not fully charge up the battery cells

Correction on the voltage for 3 battery cells should 3.75 and fully charged should have been around 4.5 volts I was calculating the voltage for six battery cells

I have to slightly modify the power supply board because when you have the power supply plugged into the label maker and the screen comes on briefly but does not stay on so I have to put a diode in the positive battery supply line so that when I have it plugged into the wall outlet it will charge the but if it is connected to the power supply it will still only momentarily turn on and back off to let me know that the power supply does not have any voltage on the switching power supply

What piss me off the other day I need to use this label maker to make a couple of labels and I could not use it anymore because of battery issues with this device

[dmill89]

I have a similar (though slightly older) PT-2030 and ended up just going the "simple" route of some Fujitsu low-self discharge NiMH AAs (similar to Panasonic Eneloop but these happened to be on sale when I bought them) rated at 1900 mAh. They often last a year or more before needing a recharge (the device is lightly used), which of course just involves popping them out and putting them in a normal NiMH charger. Though this is a far less exciting and likely a bit more expensive (depending on what those BMS boards cost you) solution (I got the Fujitsu AAs for $5/4-pack when Newegg had them on sale, but you could expect to pay $20-25 for 8 of these cells or the Eneloop equivalents normally).

[stj]

2 packs of ikea eneloops = $10

[redwire]

I just modded an AC adapter and said goodbye to all the battery hassles with the P-Touch.
The stupid thing is reverse-polarity: barrel outside (+), inside is (-).
I took a junkbox 9V 1A wall adapter for Arduino stuff and chopped off the end and rewired the DC jack.

[stj]

should have just put a rectifier in the printer - then it would be universal polarity

[sam_sam_sam]

should have just put a rectifier in the printer - then it would be universal polarity

If I was going down this route I would remove the diode from the board and replace it with the rectifier that STJ mentioned in his post above yes you would have to modify the circuit board slightly in order to accommodate the rectifier but you would not have as much of a voltage drop as you would if you were to leave the diode on the board as well

[sam_sam_sam]

I just modded an AC adapter and said goodbye to all the battery hassles with the P-Touch.
The stupid thing is reverse-polarity: barrel outside (+), inside is (-).
I took a junkbox 9V 1A wall adapter for Arduino stuff and chopped off the end and rewired the DC jack.

To me it is better to open the power supply enclosure and reverse the wires and superglue the enclosure back together for better results

[DriversScrew]

I just modded an AC adapter and said goodbye to all the battery hassles with the P-Touch.

That's what I did with a Dymo Type Label printer, too. It came with no DC input at all. Now no more 6xAAA batteries needed. Working fine for years.

[sam_sam_sam]

The replacement P Touch label maker I will probably do the same modification as well but I might do the battery pack a little bit different but I have to wait for the BMS protection boards show up to do some testing and see how well this setup works

[redwire]

To me it is better to open the power supply enclosure and reverse the wires and superglue the enclosure back together for better results

It is ultrasonic-welded and I hate taking those apart.
Brother Ptouch AC adapter is ridiculous expensive $30 and 9V at 1.6A but nobody stocks it as well. I think a labeller uses maybe 1A for short bursts though?

[sam_sam_sam]

It is ultrasonic-welded and I hate taking those apart.
Brother Ptouch AC adapter is ridiculous expensive $30 and 9V at 1.6A but nobody stocks it as well. I think a labeller uses maybe 1A for short bursts though?

A scraper blade can open them very easily I use them for this purpose

Warner-2-1-2-in-4-Edge-Scraper-Blade-2-Pack-2826/205052603

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Warner-2...2826/205052603

[redwire]

I'll have to try those and see if there's less blood lol.
What I do usually is put the wall-wart/power brick in a vice diagonally and squish them just enough to crack the seams first.