Halo 5 inch and 6 inch White Integrated LED Recessed Downlight, destroyed by 180v power surger (Newfoundland Power Company).

[Bubbsy 2002]

Hi all, I am on a 100% diagnostic spree and need some more assistance.
I have looked at the board of this poor light and it appears I have an fuse/resistor combo.

I have isolated what I believe are RV1 (destroyed by the surge) and you can see RV2, so I am assuming they are same or similar.
Can you tell me what the name of the component, amperage/resistance, so I can order from DigiKey?

And now I noticed the light went up $10 Canadian, to $46.

Any help in this regard would be greatly appreciated.

[Per Hansson]

FR1 has a hole in it: that is a bigger problem.
RV1 and RV2 are probably varistors, they will clamp when the voltage is too high, board will work fine without them for testing (if there are no more voltage surges).
You can replace FR1 with a small incandescent light bulb, 25 to 60W should be enough: if it is on fully bright it means the fuse (FR1) did it's job and the fault remains.
If neither the incandescent bulb nor LED switch on then you have an open circuit, possibly there is a hole in capacitor C3, hard to tell.
I would be spending my time with the insurance company instead.

[Bubbsy 2002]

HI, thanks for your response the event took place November 19, NLPower refused responsibility on two counts 1) they blamed the weather 2)They blame the customer for not calling before event, go figure (I have to do their preventative maintenance?). Anyways Insurance is involved and I am not complaining just having fun fixing what is broken, have a nice day.

[Bubbsy 2002]

Hi again, I tested the varistor its open circuit at that point RV1, and I noticed FR1 after I posted I am going to check it soon (FR1 is a fuse/resistor correct?).

[redwire]

A friend had a lightning strike, streamer came in on CATV line and destroyed everything connected to it. TV, VCR, set top box, stereo etc. Seemed to be between cable and mains/ground.

For an insurance claim, he had to take the units to an electronics shop and let them assess. It makes sense, people could cry fake claims to get a new TV etc.
They found the arcing and damaged components related to mains and wrote it up. So no problem getting the gear replaced.

OP you should stop fixing some of this stuff without first getting some professional to assess the damage. Then you have a case and can go after the power company. Your neighbors must have been zapped too, unless you had an open neutral in your service.

[Bubbsy 2002]

As I have said to Per Hansson, already done my friend, thanks.

[stj]

R5,R13 blown, R4 maybe blown
so the semiconductors are in question.

[Bubbsy 2002]

Thanks for your feedback really appreciate that.

[Bubbsy 2002]

Hi all, as for what Per Hansson has said in earlier post, I connected a light bulb across FR1 (blown). and it did not light up. The C3 appears to to give me a reading in ohms .441 and reversed .414 I am thinking its still good, but could be wrong.
Looks like more components failed, then FR1 blew.
Thanks for your time all, this one is going in the garbage!

[Per Hansson]

Ok, I agree with stj here, the SMD resistors he mentioned look like they could be damaged.
If you want to use the thing for learning you can measure the AC voltage on the bridge rectifier, up to that point everything should be ok.
Then after the bridge rectifier you should see DC voltage, with 115VAC on the incoming side it should be √2 x 115 = 162VDC

[Bubbsy 2002]

Thanks Per Hannson, appreciate the feed back.

[stj]

in future when your buying stuff, try to get things with universal input voltage - 100-260vac
then your protected from this type of shit happening.
unfortunatly you cant do that with motors, fans or heaters - but electronic stuff should be easy.

[Bubbsy 2002]

Hi stj, I have recently put some thought into looking for that kind of voltage range (as not everything blew) that is, I have never ever experienced a surge like this, but this province I live in now is way behind.
Maybe you can do up some buying/purchase guide for cheap but good stuff with 100-260vac voltage range, I would read that. Right now I am in market for a decent UPS, at cheap price, thanks.

[stj]

btw, thats very expensive for a $3 led lamp board in an aliminium? shell
try looking on aliexpress or banggood or other chinese sites - it's chinese anyway so get rid of the middleman

[Bubbsy 2002]

Thanks for that, I noticed its metal PCB board, first I saw that. But your right someone is making big money on these lamps and price has gone up I was shocked.