I'd like to add something to my previous post.
I changed all the caps that Lumberjack777 marked me (#704 - red and blue equally). I forgot to say what I did to fix it.
I watched a movie yesterday,I turned on the "X Contrast", the display was glaring. It was unbelievable - very-very beautiful images.
But in the darker scene went to darker (like automatically decrease the brightness). Than on the scenes under the light or daylight went back to normal (extremely bright).
Is this a real function with the "X Contrast" or an other malfunction next to the pixels friability (pixels jumping around)?
From my limited experience using X contrast it will do just that. The white is extremely white. But a dark scene is very dark. I never really use it for just that reason.
The pixels jumping around would normally be those 2 caps on the main/logic board. I think you said you had replaced those. The fuzziness, or pixelation, is usually all over everywhere. I'd check the lvds ribbon/cable to the main/logic board and clean it. I have never witnessed random pixelation like that. Maybe somebody else knows. Check those 2 caps, and the lvds cable.
I too would guess that the X-contrast is what is messing with you. LCD monitors have very saturated contrast in general, so pushing it higher rarely helps.
Also, if you get dancing or wierd looking pixels or ghosting, try the Auto Adjust feature on the monitor.
It might help if you could say exactly what caps you eventually replaced on both boards
and what make series you used. I have re read it and still do not know what caps were
replaced on the power supply - just the two that looked bad or more?
When it is on can you test the voltages on the connector from power to main and do they remain steady. Also test the voltages on the 2 voltage regulators - again do they remain steady, and also the voltage across the the 2 caps near the voltage regulators that have just been replaced.
I replaced all the caps what Lumberjack777 marked me on post #704.
Main/logic board:
The man (he was pro) replaced 3 caps (I think, I am not sure of it, because I did not see what was he's doing). Those on the pics looks new(Yageo - 100uF,16v, 105C all of them).
Finally:
I cleaned the lvds cable with Clin (window cleaner with alcohol).
Unfortunately I cannot test the voltages, because I do not have any instrument.
OK. I've read all of the pages up to this point, even found the exact problem described that I have. Hanns-G 281D Rev.2. From a cold start the monitor turns on and works fine for about 3 minutes. Then black. LED indicates that its getting a signal from the computer. Using a flash light shows no image. Turn it off/on and I get the image back for about a second. So far I have replaced all of the caps on the power supply and the main board. No change. (probably not a cap issue) Not sure where to go next and am feeling a bit dejected that the caps didn't fix the problems. Any body have an idea what to do next?
Thanks for the replays to my original post. Sorry I didn't get back sooner. I was frustrated at this repair and the holidays didn't help either. Anyway, I disassembled the monitor again and checked for the voltages. go the 5.0 volt line but that is all I can get. There is not enough wire to keep everything plugged in and be able to reach to measure the voltages. I took pics of the boards here.
Thanks Lumberjack, I replaced the 7 caps on the PS and the 2 on the main board. My I-Inc iF281D is working again. For the last few months the monitor would start but go black while Windows loaded for about 2 minutes then operate normally. Sometimes the desktop would overlay on each other but after a few minutes one of the overlays disappears. Thought it was my vid card till I turned off the monitor and it would not turn on again. The screen was losing its brightness for that last few years, now its back to like new brightness after the cap replacement.
[QUOTE=jimmy1256;517346]OK. I've read all of the pages up to this point, even found the exact problem described that I have. Hanns-G 281D Rev.2. From a cold start the monitor turns on and works fine for about 3 minutes. Then black. LED indicates that its getting a signal from the computer. Using a flash light shows no image. Turn it off/on and I get the image back for about a second. So far I have replaced all of the caps on the power supply and the main board. No change. (probably not a cap issue) Not sure where to go next and am feeling a bit dejected that the caps didn't fix the problems. Any body have an idea what to do next?
Thanks for the replays to my original post. Sorry I didn't get back sooner. I was frustrated at this repair and the holidays didn't help either. Anyway, I disassembled the monitor again and checked for the voltages. go the 5.0 volt line but that is all I can get. There is not enough wire to keep everything plugged in and be able to reach to measure the voltages. I took pics of the boards here.
You should redo some of the solder work. I see some in the pictures where solder could be bridging and some places where there is not enough solder, especially on the main board.
Sorry, I tried getting clear pix before repairs started, but none were of value to post.
I have 2 of the infamous I-inc 281D (Hans G) with psm217-404-H-R that died after having a hard time getting started for about a week. I have been trying to have fixed locally (I have carpal so hands are too shaky for detailed work). I had hopes to do by myself due to limited $, but couldnt risk doing damage.
After lots of dead ends or $50-$70/hr quotes from repair shops, I found a electronic parts store that was willing to do the work. I was told that their supplier only carried the Panasonic line of caps, so I decided to just do the 5 caps, and specified to use FC specs. After they soldered them in I was told they weren't all FC bcz the suppler didnt have them available.
All the caps put in were 105 hi temp. Only 2 of the 5 were FC. I am listing the part#s installed and datasheet links. I am hoping one of the experienced 'recappers' here can tell me if I should leave the (specific) caps in or wait until correct parts are available (2 weeks).
All of the caps you had installed are superior to the originals. And even the inferior caps from the manufacturer lasted for years. I'd say you are good to go for many years to come.
Did the repair work? It looks like you replaced the proper caps.
All of the caps you had installed are superior to the originals. And even the inferior caps from the manufacturer lasted for years. I'd say you are good to go for many years to come.
Did the repair work? It looks like you replaced the proper caps.
Thanks for that .. it helps! When I took the PS to the store, it was pointed out that a trace had lifted on the bottom. I knew that the one I left home had 60% of the very same trace missing or lifted: that is why that it didnt go to store yet
I have a stock pic where I highlited that trace, but havent checked the image size to upload it here for comment. The area of the break has discoloration from heat I guess. Just hope there wasnt damage I cant see.
They used a jumper wire to 'repair' the trace. I will be picking up PS tomorrow and post results.
Yes Johnny. The traces and pads on that board lift very easily. Plus the manufacturer bends the leads completely over; making it hard to pull the lead out, without taking the pad with it. I warned of that a few times on this thread. It's a fairly detailed job, even for an experienced solderer.
A solid bridge to the proper component will work just fine. I'm hoping for positive results for you.
Yes Johnny. The traces and pads on that board lift very easily. Plus the manufacturer bends the leads completely over; making it hard to pull the lead out, without taking the pad with it. I warned of that a few times on this thread. It's a fairly detailed job, even for an experienced solderer.
A solid bridge to the proper component will work just fine. I'm hoping for positive results for you.
Good to know! ..LOL ... and how many of these have you had under your soldering gun?
Fingers & toes are (virtually) crossed.
I am thinking of having a molex connector leads soldered in to run a fan .... but I have no schematics (or meter) and the links for schematics in the thread (AFAIK) are not having correct result ..
My HG281D runs hot and has seen daily use for 5 years now. When coming back from sleep mode or initially powering on, it would flash off/on and the speakers would make a popping sound, similar to when you switch video inputs.
Anyway, the tips in this thread helped me make a good repair w/o an ESR meter. I replaced only a few caps on the logic board. Pic attached. For replacements, I used the same exact caps it had in the first place. If I get another year out of it, I will be happy. All in all, it's been a pretty good display, although too bright!
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