I bought it just few days ago, second hand..
I donĀ“t have the damn order number that dell wants, (the warranty is calculated from the delivery date), but I know it should have the 3 year warranty.
I really would like to find the problem myself rather than to send it for repair.
That is ok - not everyone knows the warranty can be 3 years.
It is often more difficult to find a partial fault than a full breakdown.
It could still be a firmware glitch.
We can often help a lot more if you please post good clear pictures of the whole chassis, and then pictures of each board, front and back (in the same orientation) and close up of connectors, (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) using the manage attachments button, which is found by clicking "go advanced" under quick reply.
Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.
I'm have the same issues here, so it seems it may be the voltage regulators? I had the same issue were it wouldn't power on, remove ac power press power button, and then ac power attached and press button on. But finally as i predicted that method stopped working for me. I checked out the power supply board, looks ok mostly. No exploded/leaking caps, which is what i was hoping for.
Right, VR's are direction where may be the solution.
Finally I've give up and now monitor is for allmost 2 months waiting for some VR to arrive (one local electronics freak was last who wanted dell on his desk).
No call from him yet (hm, maybe kids around his building are playing with components out of IFD - identified flying dell).
Starting my monitor during normal usage (front button poweroff), a short loud humming sound ended in a bang and black smoke.
The only casualty I can find (looking at the non-component side) seem to be diode D856.
From pics and the remains I pieced it together as an 1N5406.
A) Does any of you think this is caused by a broken component elsewere that I should replace so that it does not happen again (or something worse does)?
B) Any quality issues I should consider when I pick up a new 1N5406?
I have a basic understanding of electronics, but most of the electronics design here is beyond me at this point.
Check to see if RT851 is OK, then check the resistance on the Catode side and the primary Ground ref which is the Neagtive pin of C854 to see if the Load connected to the PFC Voltage booster is shorted. Might as well check the the FR851 (Value), Q853.
You may also have a shorted MOSFET that drive the 19V SMPS transformer.
Here are my results. Are these fine and is there anything else that may be bad like the PFC IC (I851?)?
RT851 shows ~3 Ohm
There is residual V over C854 (from other capacitors?), so no short over the PFC if I understand the question (to check R between "Catode side and the primary Ground ref").
FR851 is ~1 Ohm.
I am unsure of what to do with Q853. I couldn't get an R measurement, but it seems both S and G are ~grounded and none of the pins shorted (I guess there could not be any short w/o power connected anyways).
All probing was done w/o mains connected.
Can I check Q853 somehow, or just replace the D856 diode and return power? Check anything (Q853) at that point?
I've forwarded monitor to a friend, a kind of very patient electronics (experienced) freak and it works on it for months now - stuck with some component marked S3.
Does anyone on the planet has schematic?!?
Yesterday my Dell U2410f died just like original poster's ForensicFixer and another poster davor. Monitor was in sleep mode, power led was slowly blinking in orange color. Then I pressed the power button. Monitor turned off and I was unable to bring it back to life since then.
Since my warranty expired about one month ago, I decided to open it and do some forensics with multi-meter an scope. Here are my observations.
First of all this monitor is a bitch to open, I had a real struggle to start to crack it open. I found the weakest spot on the right hand side bezel and with much difficulty managed to pry it open with knife. I then inserted plastic lever and managed to pop open all clips without braking any of them.
When connected to mains 235V AC 50Hz, all boards connected (as came from factory), I measured 3.7V and 12V on the end of power supply board. The 12V is blocked from going onto main board by power mosfet and another chip (probably regulator). The 3.7 volts gets to main board.
Moving on to main board. There are various voltage regulators on there. SRAM regulator gives 1.8V, which is correct voltage according to datasheet for h5ps5162ffr-s6c. All othere that I measured are working as per their datasheets.
Usb hub and card reader are supplied by 3.7V (probbably raw voltage from power board), which I think is strange, isn't USB supposed to be 5 volts?
Power key is powered via pullup resistor, when not pressed it outputs 3.4V signal, which goes somewhere towards CPU. When pressed signal drops to 0V. This looks OK.
The crystal oscillator for main CPU is running at correct frequency (nearly 20MHz) although the signal is not square, its is sinusoidal. Which is probably OK.
On the underside of main board is serial flash eeprom. Tried to measure SCLK and SI (serial input) signals - nothing there, CPU does not try to communicate with it.
There are also no active waveforms towards SRAM, which makes me believe that the main CPU is in some kind of suspended state and is waiting for wake-up signal. I really have to trace signal from power button to the CPU and measure it.
Same as other reported, when I remove main board from power board, the 3.7V voltage rises to 5V. Voltage across main capacititor C854 is in both cases same 325V. Which is expected (roughly input voltage times sqrt(2) ). So PFC never wakes up, which is logical since CPU is not waking it.
My conclusion: I see no immediate problem in power board. It looks like main CPU is stuck and can't wake up. Maybe firmware is corrupt? There are no obvious burnt elements on either board, all caps look OK.
Anybody have any idea what to do next? davor did you managed ti fix it?
Just say that you do not own an LCR meter so to check them.
In this case just trust some one else to repair it for you.
Today I took the boards to my workplace and used ESR meter to measure all electrolytic capacities on both boards. None of them showed unusually high ESR value.
I also looked closely at boards with stereo microscope and found nothing unusual. All elements marked as FBxxx, which are probably some kind of fuses, were measured are conducting.
Budm is asking in post57 for you to check the voltage at the points he shows in the picture. Use a groundscrew for the negative lead of your voltmeter and probe each point with the positive lead
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