Greetings Peoples!
I'm new to this forum, but not new to forums in general, or to electronics. I have a long history of fixing PCs, though this will be my first attempt at replacing caps on a PCB. So right to the issue:
First I'll start out stating that I'm broke. Like my wallet is so empty the dust mites in it are going "WTF man, seriously?"
Yesterday I got an I-Inc IF281D 28" LCD monitor in exchange for some work I did. I knew going in that these screens often have issues with bad caps, but there's no dead pixels an only one small scratch on the very top of the screen so I figured, what the heck. Got it home and sure enough, it runs for maybe 15 minutes when starting up from cold, then it blinks/flashes and then goes black all together till I let it sit for a while. While it's displaying video via the VGA D-sub port it's grainy and jagged. On the HDMI it's very clear with one exception: If I put up a busy image, like any picture that has varied colors, it displays artifacts in a way that reminds me of very, very light analog TV static. With an all black or all white image there are no artifacts and the screen is clear. If the picture I view on it is surrounded by white, the picture has artifacts and the surrounding white is clear. Sometimes, shortly after turning it on, I get vertical banding that sort of crawls up the screen to encompass the whole image, but then goes away after about 60 seconds. It's also made a couple light pop or click sounds as I'm writing this waiting for it to go out so I can check if there's an image visible with a flashlight pointed at it from the side. Started flashing after maybe 10 minutes and there's no image visible with a flashlight when it's black.
I've read some of the threads here about this monitor (specifically the one started by AloofOne) and it sounds like I have bad caps on the logic board. This seems to be common enough that there's even three people on eBay that sell a capacitor kit for the logic board for around $13. One of them also sells a capacitor kit for the power supply board.
**If someone here thinks the power supply board is my problem and NOT the logic board from the description I gave, please let me know and I'll refocus my attention there.
Now on to the tricky part. As I mentioned, I'm very broke. One of my not so polite friends made a wise crack along the lines of why am I bothering with this monitor because I can't afford the parts to fix it even if it's just caps. I said that I think I can fix it for 10 bucks including buying a soldering iron (mine disappeared several years ago). He laughed at me and made another not so polite comment about my finances, or lack there of. So now I'm on a mission with 10 bucks in hand ($10.63 to be exact), which really is all I have to allocate to this project.
And now finally to my main question. My apologies for being long winded. In this thread https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...t=18375&page=4 Mockingbird gave a very excellent shopping list at Digikey.com for Dennylee, who was also having problems with his IF281D. The caps for the logic board at Digikey.com come up to $8.50 shipped. Great parts but that doesn't leave room for a soldering iron. I can get a 30W soldering iron from a reputable seller on eBay for $3.85 shipped. That leaves $6.75. Also on eBay there are lots and lots of caps. I can get the ones I need from China for about $3.55 shipped. The ones I'm looking at are as follows:
SANYO 16V 470UF, 3 each
DZ252 25V 10uf (looks like a WCF part), 12 each
ELNA 16V 100uf (picture shows a STARGET part), 5 each
Those are the three types that the logic board requires. The only issue, other than eBay not being reliable, is that the STARGET part is 85 degree and not 105 degree. I can get 105s but they're more generic looking. So, what do you guys think? Use eBay parts from China, or let the monitor sit on my desk for another month or more (while my friend laughs at me) till I can scrape together another 10 bucks?
Or, is it possible to test the caps to see which ones are bad instead of just replacing them all? I know when they're visibly bulging it's obvious, but I read that caps can be bad without any visual signs. I have a cheap Walmart multimeter, but that's all I've got for testing components.
Any input, comments, or suggestions are greatly appreciated. If anyone needs any additional information, please don't hesitate to ask.
I'm new to this forum, but not new to forums in general, or to electronics. I have a long history of fixing PCs, though this will be my first attempt at replacing caps on a PCB. So right to the issue:
First I'll start out stating that I'm broke. Like my wallet is so empty the dust mites in it are going "WTF man, seriously?"
Yesterday I got an I-Inc IF281D 28" LCD monitor in exchange for some work I did. I knew going in that these screens often have issues with bad caps, but there's no dead pixels an only one small scratch on the very top of the screen so I figured, what the heck. Got it home and sure enough, it runs for maybe 15 minutes when starting up from cold, then it blinks/flashes and then goes black all together till I let it sit for a while. While it's displaying video via the VGA D-sub port it's grainy and jagged. On the HDMI it's very clear with one exception: If I put up a busy image, like any picture that has varied colors, it displays artifacts in a way that reminds me of very, very light analog TV static. With an all black or all white image there are no artifacts and the screen is clear. If the picture I view on it is surrounded by white, the picture has artifacts and the surrounding white is clear. Sometimes, shortly after turning it on, I get vertical banding that sort of crawls up the screen to encompass the whole image, but then goes away after about 60 seconds. It's also made a couple light pop or click sounds as I'm writing this waiting for it to go out so I can check if there's an image visible with a flashlight pointed at it from the side. Started flashing after maybe 10 minutes and there's no image visible with a flashlight when it's black.
I've read some of the threads here about this monitor (specifically the one started by AloofOne) and it sounds like I have bad caps on the logic board. This seems to be common enough that there's even three people on eBay that sell a capacitor kit for the logic board for around $13. One of them also sells a capacitor kit for the power supply board.
**If someone here thinks the power supply board is my problem and NOT the logic board from the description I gave, please let me know and I'll refocus my attention there.
Now on to the tricky part. As I mentioned, I'm very broke. One of my not so polite friends made a wise crack along the lines of why am I bothering with this monitor because I can't afford the parts to fix it even if it's just caps. I said that I think I can fix it for 10 bucks including buying a soldering iron (mine disappeared several years ago). He laughed at me and made another not so polite comment about my finances, or lack there of. So now I'm on a mission with 10 bucks in hand ($10.63 to be exact), which really is all I have to allocate to this project.
And now finally to my main question. My apologies for being long winded. In this thread https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...t=18375&page=4 Mockingbird gave a very excellent shopping list at Digikey.com for Dennylee, who was also having problems with his IF281D. The caps for the logic board at Digikey.com come up to $8.50 shipped. Great parts but that doesn't leave room for a soldering iron. I can get a 30W soldering iron from a reputable seller on eBay for $3.85 shipped. That leaves $6.75. Also on eBay there are lots and lots of caps. I can get the ones I need from China for about $3.55 shipped. The ones I'm looking at are as follows:
SANYO 16V 470UF, 3 each
DZ252 25V 10uf (looks like a WCF part), 12 each
ELNA 16V 100uf (picture shows a STARGET part), 5 each
Those are the three types that the logic board requires. The only issue, other than eBay not being reliable, is that the STARGET part is 85 degree and not 105 degree. I can get 105s but they're more generic looking. So, what do you guys think? Use eBay parts from China, or let the monitor sit on my desk for another month or more (while my friend laughs at me) till I can scrape together another 10 bucks?
Or, is it possible to test the caps to see which ones are bad instead of just replacing them all? I know when they're visibly bulging it's obvious, but I read that caps can be bad without any visual signs. I have a cheap Walmart multimeter, but that's all I've got for testing components.
Any input, comments, or suggestions are greatly appreciated. If anyone needs any additional information, please don't hesitate to ask.
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