Hello everyone, next I have the following problem with the Sumsour 8586D 110v dual station I bought it a year ago and it worked wonderfully, now it presents the H-E error on the soldering iron side, the hot air side works correctly..... I disassembled the soldering iron head because the manual tells me that this error is due to ceramic resistance problems, in effect, I measured it and it is open, I bought a new one that is working verified in a soldering iron and nothing.... The same error continues, I proceeded to open the station and check visually, I found a totally damaged 1R00 surface mount resistor, it is 1hom which is practically a cable, I solved it by unsoldering it and soldering a cable that would join the point... And nothing, the same error continues, I disassembled the triack that controls the current that goes to the soldering iron whose terminal 1 of the triack was connected to this resistance that exploded to verify it..... Totally operational, I I reassembled it and then proceeded to retouch all the soldering of the connector, soldering iron, plate etc.... And nothing, it keeps throwing the same error, I don't know what to do anymore, I searched for the pcb datasheet all over the Internet without results...... If someone can help me with new ideas or contributions, thank you in advance for the time spent
Sumsour station 8586D error H-E
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Revice la continuidad de los 3 cables que salen desde el cautin hasta el conector directo en placa y están correctos, dan continuidad...... Sospecho que sea el chip que controla la temperatura por corriente, que este dañada la salida que va al gate del triack.....
Nota: Algo que me hace y no me había percatado, la resistencia cerámica levanta temperatura hasta que da erro y se queda con temperatura leve, mido el voltage en el gate del triack y es pulsante hasta 0.3v van y vienen, por eso sospecho que sea el chip dañado
A continuación adjunto fotos
I checked the continuity of the 3 cables that come out from the soldering iron to the direct connector on the board and they are correct, they give continuity... I suspect that it is the chip that controls the temperature by current, that the output that goes to the triac gate is damaged... Note: Something that it does to me and I had not noticed, the ceramic resistance raises the temperature until it gives an error and stays with a slight temperature, I measure the voltage in the triac gate and it is pulsating up to 0.3v back and forth, that is why I suspect that it is the damaged chip3 PhotosComment
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Revice la continuidad de los 3 cables que salen desde el cautin hasta el conector directo en placa y están correctos, dan continuidad...... Sospecho que sea el chip que controla la temperatura por corriente, que este dañada la salida que va al gate del triack.....
Nota: Algo que me hace y no me había percatado, la resistencia cerámica levanta temperatura hasta que da erro y se queda con temperatura leve, mido el voltage en el gate del triack y es pulsante hasta 0.3v van y vienen, por eso sospecho que sea el chip dañado
A continuación adjunto fotos
I checked the continuity of the 3 cables that come out from the soldering iron to the direct connector on the board and they are correct, they give continuity... I suspect that it is the chip that controls the temperature by current, that the output that goes to the triac gate is damaged... Note: Something that it does to me and I had not noticed, the ceramic resistance raises the temperature until it gives an error and stays with a slight temperature, I measure the voltage in the triac gate and it is pulsating up to 0.3v back and forth, that is why I suspect that it is the damaged chipComment
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interesting, it has no feedback wire.
so it's got the thermocouple in series with the element.
that means it senses voltage in between the pulses of 24v to the heater.
unplug the iron from the base, connect the element wires to a meter set to volts and heat the tip with a lighter or hot-air.
see if you see a rising voltage from the iron.
if you do then put the correct value resistor back on that board and start looking at feedback circuits with an opamp.
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I think it measures heater current through sense-resistor R38. If it burned up then the heater must be shorted, in the plug/cable/wand etc. Now, it should not work with R38 shorted out.
When the heater transistor (?oddball pinout) Q2 is on, MCU expects to see some current flowing there, or else the heater must be open-circuit and I think it givbe H-E error.
Hakko used to do the same thing - no temperature sensor, just measure heater resistance (current) when it's on, as if the element is an RTD.Comment
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Check the resistor with the lighter and if it rises values in minivolts, that is to say it is fully functional, the R38 resistor was smd and its code was 1R00 which in the smd code tells me that it is a 1 ohm That's why I joined the connection with a cable, is that why?Comment
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Is it a 24V or mains-voltage heating element for the soldering iron?
Q2 is a DPAK, it's not a BT136 that is for the hot air heater I think.
Open heater -> no current seen -> H-E Error
Shorted sense resistor R38 -> no current seen -> H-E Error
Still wondering what caused the resistor to burn. If the old heating element had a short maybe before it went open-circuit?Comment
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Greetings to all.... I already fixed the problem, it was the R38 resistor, I looked for its replacement and eureka all functional again. As suspected, in R38 there could not be a short 1 honm is sufficient for the current there. Thank you for the support providedComment
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