I am afraid hot air will melt also my NEC/TOKIN. How did you do this?
Use bga station. Bring preheater up to 190-195 degrees (board temperature at area of Tokin) and use hot air to remove (do not exceed 240 degrees at the tip of nozzle of hot air gun if you want to save the Tokin you want to remove).
Use only preheater at 190-195 degrees and leaded solder to solder new Tokin.
These are the caps I used. They are reporting 25mOhms ESR. http://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-SMD-Tanta...id%3D100148%26
God I am so close fixing it. I checked resistance and have different values between the two positive and negative lines...
Will take detailed measurements tomorrow with and without CPU installed.
1) It still works perfectly with battery on and charges fine when not opened, like before
2) the hissing disappears when I press the caps with my finger and appears to start but not booting properly and no screen at all...
If there is a short circuit, it would not work on battery. Maybe the capacitors are not soldered properly, that would explain the different readings on each side. Send us a photo of the area.
Yeah ok will do that tomorrow morning! A very detailed report of readings plus a pic. Then I will resolder them again and hopefully I wont damage anything from excessive heat...
I hope you are not using hot air. Most of us use a temperature controlled soldering iron with a large tip. You should be able to check the continuity of the joints. Just need to keep in mind that when you press down with the probe, it could cause a bad joint to make temporary contact.
Hello! Re soldered them and turned out to be a remaining silver row plate from the old NEC/TOKIN still left below the solder so was not clearly visible. Should have cleaned it better...
Anyway after the resolder at the caps everything went along perfect powering the laptop with the adapter plugged in properly. I was very happy and begun to assemble the laptop. When I finished it started well but as soon as it got after the Windows (Vista) logo it restarted by itself... I tried again the same result.
I tried with battery only and loaded the Windows perfectly. Afterwards I plugged it in again while on and it worked for 10 minutes before it restarted itself again...
Any other suggestion cause it supposed to be fixed with the new Tantalum caps...
Here are some pics (notice the silver plate that was interrupting proper contact of caps)
I can't see all of the joints. Your iron isn't melting the solder properly. You need to look closely at where each capacitor tab is soldered to the PCB.
The capacitors should be ok judging by the seller's feedback.
Maybe someone who has used the same capacitors will comment now.
Yes, use a multimeter. The computer still seems to have the symptoms of poor Vcore filtering. If you had spares, I would have suggested adding more capacitors.
Judging by the experiences of others, these capacitors don't seem to mind a lot of heating.
Where did they come from. We need to know the ESR mainly. You can just try them if you have the proper iron. I found them easy tofit and remove with a Hakko 3.2mm chisel tip.
Hello everyone, yesterday i tried fixing my Toshiba Satellite Pro A300-1GT, so i bought some 330uF 2.5V tantalum capacitor with e12 inscription on them, from china (ebay). After i soldered them, laptop turns on, hard drive led flashes 2 times and then nothing, screen remains blank and nothing happens. I've seen that the user named: bonniedoon had the same problem with the same capacitors that are showing e12 on them and he bought good ones (showing e67 instead of e12 - from portugal) and he said those are working great, but i can't find them anywhere. If someone can help me with a source from where i can buy good capacitors (preferably from ebay) would be great.
With a little delay: i wish you all a Happy new year!
This is a picture from bonniedoon's post with the same bad caps i used (330 e12) from china:
With e12 didn't have much success! See a couple of posts on top of you.
The thing it finally fixed the problem was to set minimum and maximum CPU power state(which controls the frequency) to a steady 100% and prevent it from going up and down. Beware your heat though!
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