Hello
I have accidently removed a litle capacitor numbered C142 when removing a bad nec tokin. (see image)
i tried to resolder it but its very difficult.
With 4 tantalum caps it did not boot, with 6 it boots fine but powers down loading windows.
any way to fix it?
the problem now is that it disappeared and I dont know where it is. I have scrap boards the problem is know the specs of the tiny smd...
Any similar sized SMD ceramic will do in place of the one you lost.
Originally posted by PeteS in CA
Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
Another one done today. 4x 330uF tantalums as usual. Worked perfectly. All capacitors recovered from scrap hp dv6000 boards.
Attached Files
Originally posted by PeteS in CA
Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
Caps used were Kemet T520 Series, part# T520V337M004A(1)E009. Cap is 4V 330uF, ESR is 0.009 and Ripple rating is 4600. Picked up aruond 60 of these a while back at a bargain (Make sure you use "V" size case which is low height).
0E907 is 1.5mOhm or 0.0015 Ohms. The 4 replacement caps give 2.25 mOhms or 0.00225 Ohms. Not as low as Proadlizer, but still very low. There's also a 0.006 Ohm, 2.5V 330uF version of this cap, and the resultant ESR of using them in parallel would be 1.5 mOhm, but they're probably as rare as hens teeth.
Toughest part was getting the 0E907 off. I used the method I remembered reading about in this thread of peeling away the layers (At this point I wished I had a reflow setup like you Th3_uN1Qu3). This was necessary after the Proadlizer cap came off when I trued to remove it with a hot air gun like a tooth cap. Took flux and wick to clean the area well afterwards, as well as nailpolish remover-grade acetone to remove the residue.
"We have offered them (the Arabs) a sensible way for so many years. But no, they wanted to fight. Fine! We gave them technology, the latest, the kind even Vietnam didn't have. They had double superiority in tanks and aircraft, triple in artillery, and in air defense and anti-tank weapons they had absolute supremacy. And what? Once again they were beaten. Once again they scrammed [sic]. Once again they screamed for us to come save them. Sadat woke me up in the middle of the night twice over the phone, 'Save me!' He demanded to send Soviet troops, and immediately! No! We are not going to fight for them."
I have always used mechanical means to remove these caps. Thin-nosed pliers and surgical blade. Heat runs the risk of damaging the solder balls underneath the socket.
Originally posted by PeteS in CA
Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
Dear all, I have followed this thread since yesterday. And then i took my toshiba satellite m200. It has been sit down since 2009 (The problem - locks up when plugged in - encountered a month after i bought it! ) ). I didn't have 330uF caps, then i try replace the nec tokin cap with 2 nos 470uF caps. And it works again. Many thanks to admin and all of members of this thread. Sure, very good thread!!!!!
We are always happy to hear success stories. Welcome to the Badcaps forums!
Originally posted by PeteS in CA
Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
I had the opportunity to solve another one with that same problem, this time I took some pictures. Hope it helps.
The notebook is a Toshiba Satellite A305-S6872.
The first image shows the capacitor removed, board cleaned.
The second, new solder added to the pads.
And finally, the finished job.
Hey guys, thanx for the helpful repair procedure and photos, i just successfully repaired one A300 with the same NEC capacitor problem. I managed to scavenge six 300mf smd caps from a dead motherboard, desoldered the NEC, and soldered on the pads 4 caps just as shown on your pics.
Now the laptop is up and running perfectly, and i can charge my client properly for the job well done.
Cheers.
Last edited by Elusive_Cure; 09-28-2014, 06:37 AM.
This time I thought I'd opt for the scratching off the silkscreen in the middle method to make it easier to solder them on.
Computer works, but the LCD is wonky so I think it needs a new flex cable (because it displays fine when I move the screen).
Needs a charger and a new battery and it's as good as new.
Attached Files
"We have offered them (the Arabs) a sensible way for so many years. But no, they wanted to fight. Fine! We gave them technology, the latest, the kind even Vietnam didn't have. They had double superiority in tanks and aircraft, triple in artillery, and in air defense and anti-tank weapons they had absolute supremacy. And what? Once again they were beaten. Once again they scrammed [sic]. Once again they screamed for us to come save them. Sadat woke me up in the middle of the night twice over the phone, 'Save me!' He demanded to send Soviet troops, and immediately! No! We are not going to fight for them."
Hi, has anyone found a solution for those models without a NEC Tokin? I had a Satellite A200 in this situation but luckily I managed to replace the board with a working one from a very damaged laptop, so instead of a failing ISKAE LA-3661P rev2.0 with Intel graphics, I know have a ISKAE LA-3481P with ATi Mobility Radeon HD 2400. I was inclined to try and pry off the sATA connector from a dead board and solder it on the 2nd HDD bay with the missing connector so I could use it as my main computer (no money for a better one for now but working on it) with 1 SSD + 1 HDD + DVD, but the problem might resurface eventually as this board also doesn't have the NEC Tokin. I currently use a HP with SSD as main drive, plus a HDD in a DVD caddy, so no DVD drive for me.
On a related matter, I have a L300 with the freeze problem when on AC power, I opened it and it has a NEC Tokin OE907. I picked up a dead motherboard which supposedly came from a Dell laptop (DA0FM1MB6G3 rev. G) and it contains:
- 4 black smd caps under the sides of the CPU marked "330 79UB d";
- 1 black smd cap right under the CPU marked "220 706P e" plus 2 more in other places;
- 7 black smd caps marked "220 7046 e" all over the board;
- 3 yellow smd caps marked "KO 227 6K 733".
Are these smd caps of good quality? If yes, which ones should I use?
I picked up a dead motherboard which supposedly came from a Dell laptop (DA0FM1MB6G3 rev. G) and it contains:
- 4 black smd caps under the sides of the CPU marked "330 79UB d";
- 1 black smd cap right under the CPU marked "220 706P e" plus 2 more in other places;
- 7 black smd caps marked "220 7046 e" all over the board;
- 3 yellow smd caps marked "KO 227 6K 733".
Are these smd caps of good quality? If yes, which ones should I use?
The 330 ones are what you want to use.
Originally posted by PeteS in CA
Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
It's pretty hard to damage a tantalum cap, so don't worry.
Originally posted by PeteS in CA
Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
This time I thought I'd opt for the scratching off the silkscreen in the middle method to make it easier to solder them on.
Computer works, but the LCD is wonky so I think it needs a new flex cable (because it displays fine when I move the screen).
Needs a charger and a new battery and it's as good as new.
Great to know many are benefiting from extending the service life of their laptops, rather than going into the bin.
Just my experience, Kemet Organic doesn't last. Tried before, and it's very sensitive to heat hence tougher to work on it with Hot Air gun/station, but if IR at below 230 celsius it's fine. My personal preference is Sanyo or Panasonic Tantalums.
Mainly repair laptops, sometimes LCD/LED monitors. Also accepts changing/reballing/reflow BGA job request.
I have found that these old Satellite A200 laptops are so likable, I have collected about 20 of them.
The sound quality is amazingly good from such tiny speakers in the Harman Kardon fitted models. So long as the diaphragm isn't broken. I either repair them with flowable silicone or get replacement speakers from EMPR. Sadly, the price was increased lately.
Some models also are fitted with screens that have a much better vertical viewing angle.
When playing video, there is less negative effect in the dark areas of the picture. Blacks turning grey and grays turning black.
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