I'm just curious. The 200W Seasonic wasn't cutting it anymore, so at the moment mine is a 420W Powerlink. Or, at least it used to be a Powerlink till i got my hands on it.
Here's what the label says. For 400W (there is no "420W" model printed on the label):
I got it for free. It had the following issues:
However, it had several things that made me decide it was worth fixing:
The bulged capacitors were replaced by 1000uF/10v Nichicon PL(M). I didn't find anything official about this series, but they look a lot like the PM(M), and the specs on those look real good. They came from a Tyan Tiger 100. I'm pretty sure that the lower capacity is made up by the much lower ESR. Also, they are the same size as the "2200uF" Canicons, so it's likely that Canicon was simply lying about their capacity. The caps on the 12v rail were left alone for now.
The other parts came from a 300W Powerlink that i also got for free. This one was in working condition and had a half-decent transient filter, however it was a disaster in any other aspect. 220uF primary caps, all pi filter coils were missing, it had a grand total of THREE main capacitors, two of which were bulged, the wire on the main filter coil was the thinnest i'd ever seen (i think it's 26AWG), the main transformer was ridiculously small (first time i'd seen one of those too). It was ridiculously crammed as well, no chance of actually fitting the missing parts in. It also had a loud fan. Probably that's what kept it from blowing up...
Even after recapping it couldn't keep a 20GB hard drive running, and it happily continued powering a motherboard with a shorted chipset even though ALL voltages had gone out of spec. Luckily i noticed that the fan had slowed down and shut it down, otherwise it would probably have gone boom. Loud fan and all, it was quite hot inside after this incident. So i decided to transplant the primary transistors and filter components into the 420W. Here's what got donated.
I plugged the 420W unit in, and... nothing. I quickly found the reason: One side of the input filter coil wasn't actually connected to anything on the PCB!!! I re-used one of the straps they used to bypass the coil to wire that end of the coil to the diode bridge. I then plugged the PSU in again. 5vsb? Precisely 5 volts. Green wire to black wire.... and.... and.... it didn't blow! Yay. It also has a fairly quiet fan.
I connected the PSU to the board with the shorted chipset. It did what it was supposed to do - didn't power on at all! So this one actually has protections... I wonder why it blew up in the first place.
I left the PSU connected to a Pentium III and it's doing fine for now. I'll fire up the 'scope and check its ripple later, but i think it's well within specs. So let's revisit the ratings now, judging by the rectifiers. The input bridge rectifier is 4A and mains voltage is 230v here, so no problem with that. The 3.3v rectifier is 20A so that makes 66W. 5v - 30A, 150W. However, since 3.3v is derived off 5v, that's a total of 150W for 3.3 and 5v together. 12v - 20A again - 240W. 150+240=390W for 3.3, 5v and 12v. If you also add -5v (0.6A), -12v (0.8A) and 5vsb (2A), it looks like this one might just honor its rating! We shall see.
Things it still needs:
Pics coming tomorrow, i'm too lazy to make some after typing all this. So. What's YOUR testing PSU and where did it come from?
Here's what the label says. For 400W (there is no "420W" model printed on the label):
- 3.3v: 24A. Bullshit! The rectifier is a SBL2040CT (20A).
- 5v: 33A. True... almost. The rectifier is a SBL3040CT (30A). It can usually handle a couple amps more than its datasheet says.
- 12v: 16A. True... in theory. The rectifier was a SBL20100 (20A), however, it was blown. It probably was a knockoff part.
I got it for free. It had the following issues:
- Bad caps on the 3.3 and 5v rails (2200uF/10v Forever and Canicon)
- Shorted 12v rectifier
- Shorted primary transistors (D209L)
- Blown (open) base drive resistors
- Blown fuse (of course)
- Incomplete transient filter (two Y caps and that was all)
However, it had several things that made me decide it was worth fixing:
- A bridge rectifier! No 4-diode treatment, thank you.
- Decent primary capacitors (a pair of 470uF Teapos)
- Complete output filtering, all coils were in place (if you didn't know, they like to omit those as well!)
- Adequate gauge wiring on the main filter coil
- 20+4-pin ATX connector
- SG6105D controller
The bulged capacitors were replaced by 1000uF/10v Nichicon PL(M). I didn't find anything official about this series, but they look a lot like the PM(M), and the specs on those look real good. They came from a Tyan Tiger 100. I'm pretty sure that the lower capacity is made up by the much lower ESR. Also, they are the same size as the "2200uF" Canicons, so it's likely that Canicon was simply lying about their capacity. The caps on the 12v rail were left alone for now.
The other parts came from a 300W Powerlink that i also got for free. This one was in working condition and had a half-decent transient filter, however it was a disaster in any other aspect. 220uF primary caps, all pi filter coils were missing, it had a grand total of THREE main capacitors, two of which were bulged, the wire on the main filter coil was the thinnest i'd ever seen (i think it's 26AWG), the main transformer was ridiculously small (first time i'd seen one of those too). It was ridiculously crammed as well, no chance of actually fitting the missing parts in. It also had a loud fan. Probably that's what kept it from blowing up...
Even after recapping it couldn't keep a 20GB hard drive running, and it happily continued powering a motherboard with a shorted chipset even though ALL voltages had gone out of spec. Luckily i noticed that the fan had slowed down and shut it down, otherwise it would probably have gone boom. Loud fan and all, it was quite hot inside after this incident. So i decided to transplant the primary transistors and filter components into the 420W. Here's what got donated.
- The two 2SC5763 switching transistors
- The 2.2 ohm base resistors
- One SBL2040CT rectifier for the 12v rail
- The input filter coil
- One X capacitor
- The fuse ()
I plugged the 420W unit in, and... nothing. I quickly found the reason: One side of the input filter coil wasn't actually connected to anything on the PCB!!! I re-used one of the straps they used to bypass the coil to wire that end of the coil to the diode bridge. I then plugged the PSU in again. 5vsb? Precisely 5 volts. Green wire to black wire.... and.... and.... it didn't blow! Yay. It also has a fairly quiet fan.
I connected the PSU to the board with the shorted chipset. It did what it was supposed to do - didn't power on at all! So this one actually has protections... I wonder why it blew up in the first place.
I left the PSU connected to a Pentium III and it's doing fine for now. I'll fire up the 'scope and check its ripple later, but i think it's well within specs. So let's revisit the ratings now, judging by the rectifiers. The input bridge rectifier is 4A and mains voltage is 230v here, so no problem with that. The 3.3v rectifier is 20A so that makes 66W. 5v - 30A, 150W. However, since 3.3v is derived off 5v, that's a total of 150W for 3.3 and 5v together. 12v - 20A again - 240W. 150+240=390W for 3.3, 5v and 12v. If you also add -5v (0.6A), -12v (0.8A) and 5vsb (2A), it looks like this one might just honor its rating! We shall see.
Things it still needs:
- A MOV in the input filter
- PCI-E and SATA power connectors
Pics coming tomorrow, i'm too lazy to make some after typing all this. So. What's YOUR testing PSU and where did it come from?
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