APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

[equalizr458]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

I just replace c40 & c41 & to my amazement it fixed the problem. Mine suddenly went to battery the other night even though it had ac power, and to think I have thrown at least 2 of this same model away over the last 2 years or so, wish I had know this sooner. FYI the cap installed in the above picture for c40 is backwards, (surprised no fireworks or blown) the polarity on the board is correct (the black edge on the old smt cap is negative)

[rickbear]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

I have this unit also and found this post some weeks ago because I had the exact same problems. The UPS would only discharge and not go back to charge mode when the power came back.
I replaced the C40 and C41 and everything seems to work like a charm now. I only did it a few hours ago so I can't tell if it works permanently but given the other posts above I feel comfortable.
I can confirm equalizr458 on, that the former post picture of sundance has the C40 reversed.

[solo-act]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

Greetings All and great thread.

My unit is a BX1500 not a BR1500. Appears to be similar family and both are included in user manual. Not sure if repairs of this thread apply but I'll put this out there.

Board is 640-1019A_REV05

The box has never had to protect against a surge, no blown out components I can see, no visible trauma, just an older box I bought brand new.

I found C40 and C41.
C40 is a Jamicon 22uf 63v
C41 is 470uf 50v 80deg Celcius

There are 6 more 22uf 63v at C2, C3, C19, C20, C42, C71
There are 4 caps of 47uf 50v at C18, C21, C23, C60, C63

Clearly I could get quite busy replacing caps.

Do you recommend I focus only on C40 & C41?
Or should I expand that to replace all 22uf 63v caps?

Any other insights/advice?
Thanks!!

[solo-act]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

please delete

[solo-act]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

Not sure if this helps but I found an image of the same board and labeled C40 & C41.

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

I have this rule that if I have to repair a device that I plan on keeping and is a pain in the a** to get it apart I will replace all of the capacitors especially if they are non brand name capacitors and if I have had the device for a long time and it running 24 day 7 days a week and 365 days a year and I rely on it then yes I would highly recommend it

[solo-act]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

I have this rule that if I have to repair a device that I plan on keeping and is a pain in the a** to get it apart I will replace all of the capacitors especially if they are non brand name capacitors and if I have had the device for a long time and it running 24 day 7 days a week and 365 days a year and I rely on it then yes I would highly recommend it

Thanks for the help! I was thinking similar and while waiting for reply here I picked up Panasonic and KEMET replacements plus spares for all the caps I listed.

The board is easy to access and work on so I think I'll do C41, replace all the Jamicon 22uf caps, stop there and test.

[apofview]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

I know this topic is a little bit old but I think this could help. A common problem in the BR1500 model is that two surface mount aluminium electrolytic capacitors (C40 and C41) responsible for the -8v supply to the line sense circuit is marginal or failed. On mine, they read correct 22uF value but fail on ESR test. Replacing either or both of these should fix the on battery always or constant switching to battery.

I also have a PDF of the schematic for the board model 640-0253E. I don't know about this forum's policy though. APC has shut down sites providing schematics in the past.

Thank You. Another APC backup ups RS1500 saved!
Replaced caps 40 and 41. Cap 40 was SMD 22uF 16V replaced with 22uF 25V and cap 41 was bodged thruhole 22uF 16V replaced with 22uF 25V. Ups works great.
Simptoms were as folows:
Always on battery
Used software power chute V3.1 to check device, device was reporting voltage 188V instead 232V so it were in protection mode.
After replacing capacitors device reported voltage corectly.

[Returd]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

Greetings.

First post after my intro.

I have an older RS1500 non LCD, beige tower style 120 volt for North America.

Primary board 640-0684B

My unit is going to battery even with AC power supplied. batteries are charging when plugged in and I have swapped batteries from another unit. Batteries aren't the issue.

I assumed the problem to be a relay issue as I found YT video with a similar unit with that problem. I swapped out 4 relays with no resolution.

If you haven't guessed, I'm competent at parts changing, incompetent at diagnosis.

After reading this thread I went looking for the caps mentioned in previous posts. I don't have the same caps on my board.

I did a fairly close inspection and don't have any swollen or leaking caps.

If someone can direct me to diagnosis or know issues I'd be happy to take photos, post findings and even wear a silly hat.

cheers


Edit: upon further reading of this thread I'm leaning towards replacing all of the caps on the board since I'll have it apart. I'd still welcome any diagnosis and will post progress for the benefit of future users. Do you folks have any recommended brands or sources for caps. I'm in Ontario Canada BTW

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

These are the series of capacitors that I use most of the time in this order

United Chemi-Con ( cost )
Panasonic Electronic Components ( sometimes cost more )

I used these brands if I can not find the correct size ( diameter pin separation etc ) in the other brands
If I can not find the exact size then I might put a slight higher UF value instead of the exact one that is in there or if there was an open capacitor slot that was not used I would put two capacitors to make the UF value or put in a smaller UF value as sort of a last resort the last resort is to leave the one that is in there if the ESR value is not way out the good value zone ( and if get real desperate I might use a capacitor that has a lower UF value that will fit correctly in that slot for this capacitor )

Nichicon both are about the same order ( sometimes cost more )
Rubycon both are about the same order ( sometimes cost more )


KY United Chemi-Con
KZE United Chemi-Con
EL United Chemi-Con are voltages at 100 volts and above and small UF values 100 or less examples 4.7uf@160 volts
LXZ Automotive series United Chemi-Con
( they seem to handle heat better but not available in all UF values )
LXY Automotive series United Chemi-Con
( they seem to handle heat better but not available in all UF values )
FR Panasonic
FC Panasonic
PW Rubycon
PL Rubycon

One note if the automotive series is available and is a low ESR value I will choose this type and the normal ones that I would normally use I have had situations where sometimes the automotive type has unexpected issue results but this very rare ( mostly for the switching power supply regulator ic chips sometimes have this type of issue )

One thing I would highly recommend that if you plan on repairing electronic devices as a hobby I would at least buy a ESR capacitor tester and have a decent multi meter and a temperature control soldering iron at a minimum and if you plan on doing a lot of this type work then I would also highly recommend a Desoldering Gun station to make life easier for doing this type of work

I hope this helps you

[Returd]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

I've got a good Fluke multi meter. I'm a mechanical and all round DIY guy that occasionally dabbles with electronics. I'll need to educate on testing capacitors with it (if you have suggestions or links on where to best learn I'd welcome). I only rarely get into this type of thing but see a need for me to up my aptitude. I deal with a few older automotive ECM's that need capacitor replacements. I do have a decent temperature control soldering iron (no temperature feedback, just a dial). Up until now I've just cranked it to max

I had no idea there was such a thing as a desolder gun. I was wondering why such a simple job was such a PITA where others seemingly do it easily. I'll look into getting one. I could use some guidance on which to avoid and which are adequate for the occasional punter like me. I'd be a low volume user, few jobs per year, not a daily type thing. I just searched a local buy sell and see a used SC-5000, no brand mentioned. I also see a thread on "woes with desoldering tools" which I'll browse

I also don't know what ESR value even is or other qualities of Capacitors. My knowledge is limited to knowing what they look like and a vague idea of function. Time to educate.

I also didn't realize there was a BadCaps store. I'll buy my caps here where possible as payment for knowledge laid down in this forum.

thanks for the reply.

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

You can also get a UF capacitor tester but only use it to check the the value of the capacitor but this does not tell you the hole story if the capacitor is good or bad the ESR capacitor tester does the rest of it ( I also use one sometimes times if I have doubts about the results of the ESR meter catching all the issues with a given capacitor)

You could get something like this for testing ESR on capacitors

https://www.ebay.com/itm/18423015559...53.m2749.l2649

You could get something like this

https://www.mpja.com/Desoldering-Sta...info/19034+TL/

I am not recommending these brands for you to buy but as far as the ESR capacitor tester I will say that this is a great brand I have used it many times to troubleshoot issues with switching power supply and other devices issues

Now as far as the Desoldering station is concerned there are some issues with this brand after many hours of use for one the vacuum pump will give some issues when it reaches the end of the life of the pump no repair parts are available as far as I know

The heater element is gun failure is unpredictable or temperature sensor failure is unpredictable as well
Controller failure is also unpredictable as well as switching power supply failure

With saying all of this I can get several years of use 4 to 8 hours each day of use most weekends when I do not have to work at my job

On a scale of 0 being total garbage and 10 the best quality that money can buy
I would give it about a 6 for the most part

[souther78]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

I also just joined the forum to say thank you to all, especially Sundance whose photo confirmed exactly what i should do. replaced the two caps, c40 and c41 and my RS1500 works like a charm, i have very limited knowledge on electronics but i did it and i feel so good thanx to you, you saved me lots of time guys thank you so much!!

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

Do not be a stranger on the forum let us know when you a temp any type of electronic repair we like to hear about it

One more device that did not end up in a landfill good work

[dotignore]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

I had problem with RS 1500 When pressed on power button, UPS does not start.

Watched video on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNcMSs4IDO8 and change CAP c41 and c40 my problem was resolved

[eyeSpy]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

Posting another success. I replaced with identical 16V and works fine.

Input voltage was previously showing around 107V. After repair, showing 123V.

[kage]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

Another rs1500 saved. My solder job is miserable (need a smaller iron tip for my hakko and more practice) but it's working now.

[CA50]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

Thank you for the solution. I saved my UPS which had the same problem.
I had one SMD and one electrolytic cap of 22uf/16V ; I replaced both with electrolytic 22uf/63V.

Kudos !

[gabri2211]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

I know this topic is a little bit old but I think this could help. A common problem in the BR1500 model is that two surface mount aluminium electrolytic capacitors (C40 and C41) responsible for the -8v supply to the line sense circuit is marginal or failed. On mine, they read correct 22uF value but fail on ESR test. Replacing either or both of these should fix the on battery always or constant switching to battery.

I also have a PDF of the schematic for the board model 640-0253E. I don't know about this forum's policy though. APC has shut down sites providing schematics in the past.

Zorix you are great!!!
thanks to your precious advice I solved the fault of my APC RS1000 which on the motherboard shows the diagram 640-0253E.
Thanks to everyone like you who gives good guidance, and makes this forum GREAT.

[vjason]

Re: APC Back-ups RS 1500 Dead

Thanks for this picture and to those who've contributed to this thread.

Repair made today, and my old Back-Ups RS 1500 now comes online. I have another one that is still chugging along, but now I know the fix for that one if it ever acts up.

I also joined this board just to say "thank you"!

My RS 1500 is great and integrates perfectly with NUT on Linux. I bough over the years many other products from other manufacturers but none pleased me like this old APC.

Until one day... when is stopped to go online. I tried everything (circuit break, hardware reset the unit, software reset the front panel with NUT, set the tolerance to low, replaced batteries). Nothing worked. Even if plugged on AC power (230V) it wouldn't go online but on batteries. Sometimes was charging batteries (even if not going online), other times will discharge the batteries in the same conditions (plugged to AC). Some times it went online, but if AC power was lost and come back it will not go online again.

I monitored the parameters (with NUT) and saw that parameter "input.voltage" was erratically changing from 184V to 92V, 144V... etc. I mounted a meter and saw that the AC voltage was constantly 228V, so the UPS was a complete mess.

A nightmare. That is why I bought several other products... but not being satisfied I decided this Sunday to play with my old buddy.

And I found this thread! I opened the unit and saw that C41 was already manually replaced (with a higher voltage one). I bough the unit as new and nobody opened it ever. I replaced C40 and yupppyyyy! now everything works! I used a 50V one to prevent it from burning again too soon... maybe it helps.

I noticed that the marks for the polarity on motherboard are reverse to the ones on the capacitor (check attached). That is the "+" sign on the motherboard goes with "-" sign on the capacitor. I am not a specialist but I noticed this on the replaced one and I did the same.

I didn't had a hot air tube to heat the old damaged capacitor in order to remove it so I just cut it off with a clipper.

Thank you again for this common effort!