Eufy Floodlight Cam 2 Pro Dead. Power Supply issue...

[KYBOSH]

I have a floodlight-security camera that recently died on me.



its hardwired to 115v po115v outlet. One evening it simply died. After some troubleshooting (ensuring it had power and ensuring the electronics were actually functional by supplying 5v via usb port) i realized the power supply must be the issue. The supply was noticably warm to the touch even though it was not powering anything.

Trying to understand what i was up against i went looking for others with similar issues and anyone who might have attempted a repair. While a few ppl have had the issue inhave found nothing in the way of an attempted repair. The only teardown pics i could find wad the FCC filing of the device.

https://fccid.io/2AOKB-T8423/Interna...Photos-5339367

In it you can see the virgin power supply PCB


as well as it covered in a protective resin (likely to protect it from the elements).



My question is... is there an easy way to remove this coating so i can have a look at the board underneath and possibly try to repair it?

Thanks in advance

[stj]

you need to poke it to see if it's hard epoxy or some type of silicone,
if it is epoxy you can still remove it in small areas with a heat gun and a screwdriver usually.

[CapLeaker]

Looks epoxy and solid to me, problem is you need to get the board out of the housing.

[KYBOSH]

I'll give it a try soon after i get the replacement delivered.
Assuming the psu is inaccessible (sealed in exppy) i wonder if ai could refit this unit with another (external) power supply....

[stj]

if you can extract the board maybe by deforming the plastic or running a thin blade or shim around it, you may find there is no "stuff" on the underside.
that would simplify things because you could just dig out and replace any small electrolytic caps and see if it starts

[KYBOSH]

Well I was able to open up the case tonight.
The "potting compound" is silicone based I believe. Not terribly difficult to remove but it will take a while being patient and methodical as not to damage any components.
I was not able to spot any places on in the gel that was burned or discolored which would give me a clue as to the component that may have faltered.
I would love to simply replace the power supply with something else out of my bin but the wires coming out of the output tells me that the LEDs are controlled/powered seperately somehow. Possibly to change it color temperature.
I will check YT to see if anyone has had any luck in repair something like this here. Any additional advice/encouragement would be greatly appreciated.

[KYBOSH]

i went for it tonight. Was pretty easy to remove the silicone. Uses a metal splunger raking care not to nick any of the SMDs on the board. Fuse was good but the MOV (varistor) maybe dead as it didnt read anything via DDM. Will check deeper in the morning.

[stj]

movs are not supposed to read anything, they go short when you go over the marked voltage.
try changing the electrolytic caps

[CapLeaker]

Look for a short. You said your PSU is hot, but doesn't power anything.

[KYBOSH]

movs are not supposed to read anything, they go short when you go over the marked voltage.
try changing the electrolytic caps

exactly right stj. It was a late night and i wasnt thinking straight. The caps locap great but I will pull them out of circuit later to check them.

Look for a short. You said your PSU is hot, but doesn't power anything.

I am finding a few smd caps and resistors reading shorted near those ICs marked AZTDFB but i am not seeing anything online to help me ID them. I lifted on of the caps to ensure it wssnt actually shorted and it wasnt.

[KYBOSH]

Hey! I finally got to use my FLIR ONE I bought last year. Bought it JUST for instances like this.
Problem found. Shorted Cap! Removed it and nothing else shows as shorted anymore. Very happy about that!
CapLeaker Thank you for that trigger word (HOT). I initially thought it was hot bcos the floodlight was running before it died and the heat I was feeling was residual from its operation. This may have been partly true but it dawned on me (after your suggestion) that is was still warm LONG after it should have cooled down.

The cap is a 1206 and reads about 10-11µF (determined from the other cap that wasn't shorted).
I cant remember if I have a kit of these caps but most likely I dont. I'll check some part boards have laying around to see if I can scrounge something up.

[CapLeaker]

Voltage injection combined with thermal imaging works good, but so does 99% IPA. At least you found the problem, as others may have the same issue. Just make sure you put a good replacement cap in it. Good work!

[KYBOSH]

Voltage injection combined with thermal imaging works good, but so does 99% IPA. At least you found the problem, as others may have the same issue. Just make sure you put a good replacement cap in it. Good work!

Thanks so much! I was really nervous about this one due to my inexperience with potting.
regarding voltage injection ....i need to take time to study and practice this technique as i ihave seen it done (on videos) but have never done it.

[CapLeaker]

Thanks so much! I was really nervous about this one due to my inexperience with potting.
regarding voltage injection ....i need to take time to study and practice this technique as i ihave seen it done (on videos) but have never done it.

I use it quite a bit. Most of the time I use 99% IPA, even so I have a flir thermal imager. The Flir can be a gods send device too. That's why I own one. You need a proper bench power supply and that is a very important part, as you don't want to damage stuff with these cheap gizmos. Another way to find shorts is with something called a Leakseeker 89. I think you got enough to things about. Lol

[KYBOSH]

I use it quite a bit. Most of the time I use 99% IPA, even so I have a flir thermal imager. The Flir can be a gods send device too. That's why I own one. You need a proper bench power supply and that is a very important part, as you don't want to damage stuff with these cheap gizmos. Another way to find shorts is with something called a Leakseeker 89. I think you got enough to things about. Lol

Thanks for the tip about the Leakseeker. I'll look it up tonight. I have a proper power supply already (love it). I have everything needed to master voltage injection except the experience of doing it. I'll sitdown with a few parts boards and some YT videos and find my way around it one of these weekends.

I got the camera up and running. Did actually have some quality caps i sourced from Mouser a while ago. 1206, 16v, 10uF. Camera fired right up after i resoldered some wires that were disconnected during the depotting process.

Speaking of the potting. Should i leave the PS naked or find something to reseal it?
i cant think of anything off the shelf that would cover as well, come off as cleanly or not cause some sort of corrosion to the board.

[stj]

i have some chinese stuff called 705,
it's a clear rubber in liquid form - comes in a tube and over 24hours will set pretty hard.

[KYBOSH]

i have some chinese stuff called 705,
it's a clear rubber in liquid form - comes in a tube and over 24hours will set pretty hard.

New 705 High Temperature Clear Silicone Rubber Sealant Adhesive Glass Glue Q2Q9 https://www.walmart.com/ip/6288712437

This one?

[sam_sam_sam]

Run the device for several days then let it get back to room temperature again and I might even do this several times before I would repotting it again because I have thought that something was fixed until I tournament the device and try to make it fail again if that does not work then I consider it repaired and then would repotting it again

[KYBOSH]

Run the device for several days then let it get back to room temperature again and I might even do this several times before I would repotting it again because I have thought that something was fixed until I tournament the device and try to make it fail again if that does not work then I consider it repaired and then would repotting it again

You know ... this a good idea. I'll admit i usually never put a device through its paces after a component level repair like this. Usually button it up and put it back into service. I'll run it this weekend with extended period to verify. Thanks for the tip!

[sam_sam_sam]

I generally speaking I torture test devices that I plan on using it in a piece of equipment that I want it to reliable then I will really torcher test the hell out of it just to make sure that it is really repaired