I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

[Per Hansson]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

@stj you hit the nail on the head with the brand part (Changx)

I have 2 questions about the series
1. do you have a link to what each means/ intended use
2. which series do i want for each cap

I do have 3 of these units (replacing caps in all), 2 have the same garbage caps, one has different caps, the other has Jwco, the larger 10uf caplooks to have a actual number on it (CD11G brand appears to be jw)

CD11G looked familiar, read this thread for a laugh
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47823

@Per Hansson
After looking at that cap, wouldn't this one be better/last longer?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail.../EEU-FR1E471Y/

Sure, was just trying to keep close to the dimensions you stated.

and about that 400v cap, does that need to be fr as well?
i had this in my cart, i know it is only rated at 160v, but it should only be getting used at ~125v
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...47-UCA2C100MPD

Never ever do that as budm stated!!!
You can use any 400v rated cap you find on your favorite shopping site, it really does not matter. (It does not have to be low ESR).
EDIT: This one is nice, maybe it was already linked before:
https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...5TgiW03dbXY%3d

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

Would it be easy to take a photo of the 12 volt & 5 volts power supply board I am curious of the quality of that power supply seeing the quality of the 5 volt board is to me is crap

Just a thought

The 12v adapter is from networking hardware that my ISP uses, so it should be a decent unit, based on the math i did, but i do stress it at times, probably about a 95% load; that is a 1A supply; it will put out some heat under that load
that unit is running my network switch and powers my keyboard light (SMD 3528 led strip), i think i used a TIP120 transistor to turn it on/off
but yes i can take a pic for you, easier now then back when i took that last photo, i have space connectors on the mains power lines now and there is a molex plug on the DC side, i can do so this afternoon

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

So assuming the transformer fails and allows ~170v to go through is there a fuse i can put in the output line to act as a safety? i would say a fuse of about 1.5A should be fine
I know i would want a fast blow, but i do not know what the difference in between glass and ceramic, well i know what they are but i do not know why it matters in a fuse

[budm]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

"So assuming the transformer fails and allows ~170v to go through is there a fuse i can put in the output line to act as a safety? i would say a fuse of about 1.5A should be fine"
re you talking about putting a fuse on the DC output of the power supply?
If that is the case it will not protect anything if the transfomer insulation failed, you will likely to get electrocuted, the fuse on the DC output is not going to do anything.

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

When i say safety i mean for the intended load not me, is there anything i can add on either the dc or ac side of the circuit?

as for the pictures of the 12v adapter:
https://imgur.com/a/ps6uA

[kaboom]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

When i say safety i mean for the intended load not me, is there anything i can add on either the dc or ac side of the circuit?

Yes! An equipment grounding conductor (EGC), from DC common to the "third wire" of your (new) power cord. Your line voltage is 120, so for a 200V input filter, use Nichicon CS.

Connect line & neutral from the cord to the fused & unfused (respectively) AC inputs on that PCB. Connect the green or green/yellow wire from the line cord to the "-" pin on the first filter cap after the transformer/rectifier on the secondary side.

So if/when it shorts pri-sec, the fuse blows and/or bkr trips, if fault current gets into bkr's instantaneous range. Instead of the output sitting at line voltage, with the connected load still working, it's made safe and the input to the supply is killed.

Let me add that those supplies are kind of flopping loose in that case- at least move them outside. Those little supplies, not that I'd use them personally, can be just as nasty as bigger ones, like what was in that case originally. Don't let their small physical size or capacity be mistaken for small hazards.

After looking at this, I think you'd be better off with an external "brick" supply connected by a cable and multipin plug/receptacle.

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

The 12v adapter is from networking hardware that my ISP uses, so it should be a decent unit, based on the math i did, but i do stress it at times, probably about a 95% load; that is a 1A supply; it will put out some heat under that load
that unit is running my network switch and powers my keyboard light (SMD 3528 led strip), i think i used a TIP120 transistor to turn it on/off
but yes i can take a pic for you, easier now then back when i took that last photo, i have space connectors on the mains power lines now and there is a molex plug on the DC side, i can do so this afternoon

Do not get mad at me for saying this but you need to get a better power supply’s to cover the power that you want to push out of them

I very rarely push a power supply be on 50% maybe to 75% but if I do it to 75% or higher I keep a very close eye on it to make sure it not overheating the case of the power supply

If you need better power supply’s I can point you in the right direction just let me know and I will be glad help you with it

They will not cost you an arm and leg

I do tend to over size the power supply for what I am powering and more so with switching power supply

Now if I am using a transformer type power supply I might cut it close to it maximum output but then will put a fuse in it that is what the transformer is rated for

But I have seen some transformer and I laugh at what they say they can put out

Please be safe

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

I used the plastic boxes to hold the adapter board cause they have no mounting holes
Sorry i do not quite understand all that i really could use a wiring diagram
Here is the color coding i am using

AC Wires (US standard AC color coding):
 Green - Earth ground
 Black - 120v AC
 White - neutral AC (connected to earth ground in mains panel box)
DC Wires (standard Computer PSU color coding):
 Black - 0v DC
 Red - +5v DC
 Yellow - +12v DC

At one point i had a brick for all this, but i replaced it cause it belongs in the power supply hall of shame thread
I believe this is the one:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16812123309
The 1st issue is came with an adapter that was not pinned properly for the brick
I do not recall which pin was ground on which but this was the issue

Brick pin set:
 5v
 0
 NULL
 12v
Adapter pin set:
 5v
 NULL
 0
 12v

This POS was barley able to handle a 25% load with +5v falling a measly 4.8v
and it claims to do 2A on +12 and +5
*wonders hat i did with this piece of junk*

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

Do not get mad at me for saying this but you need to get a better power supply's to cover the power that you want to push out of them

I very rarely push a power supply be on 50% maybe to 75% but if I do it to 75% or higher I keep a very close eye on it to make sure it not overheating the case of the power supply

If you need better power supply's I can point you in the right direction just let me know and I will be glad help you with it

They will not cost you an arm and leg

Please be safe

If you can find one that will fit in the allotted space that is not a POS that would be great, i would like to keep it inside the PSU case, the only way i know to find a good brick is to get a used one from networking hardware, unless you count going extreme overkill and getting picking up 300w seasonic PSU

when i say the 12v one gets pushed hard, i figured out my leds should pull 300ma at 12v without the vdrop from Darlington transistor and the spec page on the network switch states it uses 700ma, i should probably measure it

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

Here is one power supply

I do not have one of these power supply but looking at the specks I might buy one soon and try it out

12 volt @ 8 amp

http://www.mpja.com/12VDC-84A-Power-...info/33176+PS/

Here is another one at same web site
I have not tried this brand of power supply before so I can not tell anything about it

5 volt @ 3 amp

http://www.mpja.com/5-Volt-Power-Sup...info/18438+PS/

I have some of these power supply they are very good they are made by MeanWell
The only problem with power supply it if you want a voltage lower than 4.75 volts

( the trip pot gose lower than it should)

it is not going to happen without being mod it in some way it's high voltage is 5.8 with different trim pot then you get to 6.25 volts the review that has that as a note I was the one who wrote it that the range of adjustablty is not correct in the description that they have for it

https://www.allelectronics.com/item/...-supply/1.html

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

Both those are alot of overkill
for the +5v i am only using probably about 800ma, clamp on meter shows i use 0.5A when not charging my old ipod shuffle
as for the +12v i am using a GX-D1081 network switch and running 45cm(3leds per 5cm) of cool white SMD 3528 led tape

I figure if both can do 2A that would good

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

You can find very good power supply you just have to look
With me I do not like compact boards where all the components are real close together and caps are real close to heat sinks or do not have switching power regulator in them

This is a big one if I find one like that most of time I will not use it but that just me

Or if the switching transformer does not look like it can handle the load that they say it will

Most of the time I do not use them either

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

are these board worth a crap?
http://www.mpja.com/5-Volt-Power-Sup...tinfo/18438+PS
http://www.mpja.com/12-Volt-Power-Su...tinfo/18443+PS

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

They might be alright for the fact that are on sale right now

Here is what do when I get a brand for first time

One

I look at the brand of caps they on the board
If do not know the brand I recap it

Two

I run the power supply on a MR16 / 20 or 50 watt light bulb (at 12 volts = about 1.6 to 3.8 amps load )
With the load hook up with out power ON at first and see if it will start with a load the better power supply might start with a load up like that

If will not start that way then turn ON the power supply first then put load on it and read the voltage with load then out the load this will tell you how well this power supply regulator system functions

I seen some power supply that there voltage regulator is sorry at best or does not have any to speak of

Three

After 15 minuets I turn OFF the power supply and check the temperature of the heat sinks to see how hot they have become

Another test you can do after the heat sinks have come to room temperature is run the power supply at load you are going to use most of time and see how hot the heat sinks become


Before you turn it OFF have a load on the output and check the main cap before you do this

My rule is if you can hold your hand or figure on the heat sink for at least a minute with having to take them off you will be ok

[Per Hansson]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

Another test you can do after the heat sinks have come to room temperature is run the power supply at load you are going to use most of time and see how hot the heat sinks become

My rule is if you can hold your hand or figure on there for at least a minute with having to take them off you will be ok

Keep in mind that it's common for heatsinks to be LIVE with DC bus voltage on them!!!

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

I should have said before you turn it OFF have a load on it and check the main cap before you do that

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

are these board worth a crap?
http://www.mpja.com/5-Volt-Power-Sup...tinfo/18438+PS
http://www.mpja.com/12-Volt-Power-Su...tinfo/18443+PS

I almost forgot about this power supply this looks be made pretty well
It has 12 & 5 & 3 volt output

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.co...?number=G20367


If you can wait for it to go on sale if i remember right they go on sale for $20.00 but most of time it is one or two that you can buy at price if try buy more than that the price is then $500.00 each I am not kidding but they are funny with that

I have not used this power supply yet but I have about 4 or 5 of them maybe in the next few weeks I am think about a project that I want build and I am going to use this power supply in it most
of time I take the power concentor off the boards because I do not have those plugs

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

Ok i like that more, that has everything i could possibly need and more, i would trade from 3.3 amps for 12v amps, wait maybe i could... nah i think that fan needs at least 4v; but hey i can run anything i want on 3.3v with that, not that i have a need to
meh, who needs plugs when you have a soldering iron we could remove the plug OR we can solder to the pin and heat shrink it

Ok i like that one more and after going over a spec sheet i found i like it even more:
https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...c967142f61.pdf
https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...c9c4333d55.pdf
I managed to find it on ebay for about $20

i just ordered it and 5min later i looked at the size that is 1/2 my dam case; there is no way in hell i can fit that in there

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

Looks like the actual load on the 12v power supply is .7A max
and the garbage 470uf caps are running at 29 C (norm 0.5A (25%) load)
load based on my multimeter's readings (southwire 21050t)
going back to plan A replace junk caps with real caps

Hopefully kaboom can explain that safety in a way a novice can understand

BTW there is a issue i have been having, it may be a software issue, but it could be a noise issue in my power, on occasion i get a odd noise in my audio over-wise it is seems spotless, so if there is something i can do to make the output cleaner i would like to know; i have already tried using aluminum foil to shield stuff from power lines, i did manage to get a voltage measurement during this event and only saw a variation of 0.01v; so far nothing i have done has had any effect, i also tried a ferret core on my audio cable

After over a year i managed to find the issue, corrupt audio file

[evilkitty]

Re: I found the bad cap, looking at replacements

i took a better picture of the 5v adapter (C1, C5, and C6 have been removed)

so how do i wire up that EGC?