Hisense Roku 58R6E3 has back and audio, no image

[ratslap]

Hi all,

The television screen is black but it is back lit. flashlight test doesn't yield any results as the screen is lit. the television just repeats a message about enabling or disabling the screen reader feature.

first thing tested was unplugging the screen cables that lead to the tcon. when I unplug the right cable the screen shows half black on the left and white on the right. but when i unplug the the left tcon cable the entire screen remains black. From my understanding this indicates a screen panel problem. I have had previous success with covering some of the pins on the cable to the main board with tape on other television. But on this specific television that yeilded no change.

Does this sound like a screen panel problem?

[EazyBone]

Can be panel. Can be tcon and can be main board. I've had experience with these and tape method usually yields results though if it's the panel. I've never had this TV be anything but the panel or backlights.

But you got to do your basic testing now.

Do you have 12v at the fuse of tcon?

[ratslap]

Yes, It does have 12 volts.
I'm a newb, does the 12 volts being present an indicator that the t-con board is likely good?

[EazyBone]

You tested 12v on both sides of fuse right?
no 12 v doesn't mean tcon is good or bad, it just shows that something is actually correct. the main board is at least sending a signal

[ratslap]

yes it was on both sides of the fuse

[old townie]

I am also troubleshooting this identical issue, exactly as described by post #1 above.
I had some email interaction with Hisense tech support. They sent me a series of questions, which had mostly to do with attempting repair by disconnecting the power, resetting the device, etc (none of which helped). But one item they asked was new to me: is there a flicker of white light when the panel front is lightly tapped? Yes, I get that result. But they never replied to me, even after several re-attempts.
See attached photos with descriptions. Hopefully this helps anyone who might have a remedy? I would love to get this working. Have only had it 2.5 years, it would be a shame to make a land fill contribution with it.
Thank you
>>I am having trouble with uploading/describing photos. I keep getting "ERROR you are not authorized to create this post" So bear with me as I figure this out...

[EazyBone]

Means one of 3 thing still. Main board TCON or panel.

There's a $40 kit ( of course compare your model numbers) and they offer free returns minus your shipping costs. Might even be cheaper on eBay. You can also make an offer on shop jimmy, say for $30 and maybe they'll accept it. I've done it

https://www.shopjimmy.com/hisense-58...BoCYNMQAvD_BwE

[old townie]

thank you for the tip eazybone - I will look into it!

Here are the photos I was trying to upload, in case they're helpful.

[old townie]

In my research, this was also a fascinating find. It looked exactly like my scenario!

https://youtu.be/bdw8Mub9ReU?si=0_NmmW9M4HBmZJXJ

The tech even flicks the screen and gets the bright white flash, just like my panel does. I checked out the capacitators highlighted in this video and unfortunately my capacitors seem to be intact (assuming I'm wielding my multimeter correctly, which I'm not 100% confident about). So this particular proposed solution (removing a faulty capacitor) seems like a dead end, unless anyone else has some insight.

[nomoresonys]

Is that Pat from SNL?

[old townie]

I was all set to start buying CPB's to fix the issue, then I came across the "tech support" offer on ShopJimmy. I filled out all the details of my issue (see this entire thread). Within 90 minutes I received this reply from TV tech, Randy:

"shorted lcd screen, no fix for that. screen costs are as much as a new tv"

I figure they want to sell me parts, so an answer like this seems reliable.

Any thoughts out there?

[lotas]

The problem may be in these buffer strips, ceramic capacitors, protective diodes, diode assemblies being short circuited and because of this the protection at the T-con output is triggered (voltages are blocked).

[nomoresonys]

So did you try the solution in the video?

[old townie]

nomoresonys I tested the capacitors identified in the video. They both have continuity which I think means they're fine? But again I'm so new to this I'm not 100% sure. I don't get how a capacitor can be removed from a board and then it works? Doesn't every component have a job to do? Maybe it removes that one line in the screen and the eye doesn't notice?

lotas thank you for the suggestion - how would you go about testing this possibility? I am ready to learn!

[EazyBone]

I was all set to start buying CPB's to fix the issue, then I came across the "tech support" offer on ShopJimmy. I filled out all the details of my issue (see this entire thread). Within 90 minutes I received this reply from TV tech, Randy:

"shorted lcd screen, no fix for that. screen costs are as much as a new tv"

I figure they want to sell me parts, so an answer like this seems reliable.

Any thoughts out there?

This is probably correct. And that could be a capacitor on buffer boards. The caps should NOT have continuity, one side generally is grounded. If both sides are grounded then the problem is somewhere there. As the others were saying.

[nomoresonys]

It's pretty simple, put meter in ohm mode, a probe lead on each end of capacitor, is the reading low, now compare that to the many other caps on the board, odds are only one or a few will show the very low ohm, if you have a meter that beeps with continuity and you get a steady beep, that indicates a short, which may be the cap itself or maybe a component nearby etc.