Hi, I have spent the last week reading and learning before placing this post.
I bought my LG 60PV450 approx 3 years ago. It has had typically light usage, 2-3 hours a day, 5-6 days a week. There were a couple 12+ hours gaming tests but they were rare.
Anyhow, it has always had a nice picture and behaved perfectly. Around 10 days ago I booted up a Windows gaming rig on it. I was in the kitchen and not looking but at some point of being parked on desktop I looked in and saw that the normally yellow desktop had gone very dark & grey. It looked like SOMETHING had gone to sleep. I moved the mouse and it didn't wake up. Turns out the LG had lost all color and most of it's brightness. I power cycled it and it stayed the same.
I turned it off for 20 minutes and turned it back on, picture came up normally, I was happy. For about a minute. That was last time it worked. Since then it has been stuck in "dark" mode, and that is only viewable if room is very dark.
Now it is basically completely unusable. I know that the "no connection" blurb is bouncing around on the screen, but it only appears as splotches of white on a black background.
I removed the back, all components look fine. No brown on any PCBs from past baking, everything looks new. Not even very dusty.
All voltages tested OK. On Z-Sus the VS hits 263 when I attach meter but jumps right down to 201 where it is supposed to be. The 5V line is at 5.1. Even VZBias at 110 V where it should be.
On the Y-Sus I saw 5.16 on the 5V line, 55.1 on VA (should be 55) and again 201.2 for VS. I disconnected LVDS and bridged points to make test patterns happen. Saw colors in the corners, nowhere else. It had appearance that matched several "Bad Z-Sus" board images on here. Specifically the mandelbrot shapes in corners.
All fuses on both Y & Z Sus boards are fine. I looked at Z-Sus board under a lighted magnifying light on both sides. No scorching, no tiny craters on hard to see dark components. And yes, I did look for bad solder joints, specifically on the 3 large coils. All soldering looked fine. I should mention that I run a small business which involves a lot of SOIC-8 EEPROM replacement on GPUs. So I have a hot air station and pencil irons, etc. I also have a larger 60W gun and a $30 Heat Gun that can be used when larger item needs to go.
Sometimes on a PC GPU parts of the power circuit will blow a tiny crater in their top surface.
Anyhow, no such luck, nothing visible. In reading other Z-Sus threads for this machine I noticed that most involved blown fuses and resistors at base of IGBT chips.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...t=igbt+60pv450
I decided to just order a Z-Sus board since it seemed a likely culprit, based on symptoms. Then I discovered that nobody had them.
Here is the shop jimmy page:
http://www.shopjimmy.com/lg-ebr73561701-zsus-board.htm
The only options I see are some repair kits on Ebay and 2 repair services where you send your board in. I noticed that the repair kits basically have all of the parts mentioned in the 1st thread I linked. But if I don't have anything (obviously) blown or shorted. If I turn it on, all I see is an occasional splash of white dots where the "no connection" notice is bouncing around. It will stay on like this for 10-15 minutes then eventually turn off.
In short, I'm afraid that the standard repair kit may not be what is needed and if those people on Ebay doing repairs are just using same parts they buy in a kit.....
Anyhow, I got excited reading that some boards can be interchanged. I had a look at the model right before mine:
http://www.shopjimmy.com/lg-ebr63450501-zsus-board.htm
It looked like the same basic board. And they are a dime-a-dozen. As little as $7 on Ebay. Looked like same plugs in same places. So I bought one.
Got the board yesterday and realized first that screw holes in wrong places, only 3 match up. But I had to know. I had to cover parts of board where the studs came up and met components.
And for the first time in almost 2 weeks, it fired up. But it isn't perfect. All of the plugs were the same, EXCEPT there was a 5V line coming into the proper part from the PSU , but the older Z-Sus didn't have that pin connected. It doesn't have a 5V line in from PSU.
In all of my fiddling with remote while I couldn't see anything, i had evidently selected "CABLE TV" as input. SO screen was full of snow. Oddly, it wouldn't let me choose another input. And I finally realized that the menus were also wrong, they had bursts of orange in the blue. So I turned it off and put the original Z-Sus back in. Still dark.
My number one priority is to get the set running. My living room looks silly with a 30" computer display set up in front of Plasma so I have something to look at. I have PM'd a member who mentioned a spare good Z-Sus board. I realize that my experiment was not wise, but it would seem that I know that there is SOMETHING wrong on my Z-Sus. The voltage is present at VZBIAS test point, but must not be getting sent out to power the screen.
My other thought on this is I can't help but notice a LACK of threads complaining about the older model's Z-Sus board. And they are plentiful everywhere I look, while the 60PV450 Z-Sus boards are N/A.
So, it would have been wonderful if they worked in the newer set, but evidently they don't. My next thought is wondering if whatever blew on my board is also present on the older board, which I could use as a donor. If a more robust version is on those older boards, could be a good thing.
I have a DMM auto-ranging and general electrical skills. I am concerned that the typical kit is to repair a burned out IGBT that also takes down a few SMD resistors and a Fuse, none of which has happened to mine. I am also concerned that if I buy the kit and do the repair and that does't fix it I will have to send to a shop but they specifically mention "no prior work".
Will appreciate any info.
I bought my LG 60PV450 approx 3 years ago. It has had typically light usage, 2-3 hours a day, 5-6 days a week. There were a couple 12+ hours gaming tests but they were rare.
Anyhow, it has always had a nice picture and behaved perfectly. Around 10 days ago I booted up a Windows gaming rig on it. I was in the kitchen and not looking but at some point of being parked on desktop I looked in and saw that the normally yellow desktop had gone very dark & grey. It looked like SOMETHING had gone to sleep. I moved the mouse and it didn't wake up. Turns out the LG had lost all color and most of it's brightness. I power cycled it and it stayed the same.
I turned it off for 20 minutes and turned it back on, picture came up normally, I was happy. For about a minute. That was last time it worked. Since then it has been stuck in "dark" mode, and that is only viewable if room is very dark.
Now it is basically completely unusable. I know that the "no connection" blurb is bouncing around on the screen, but it only appears as splotches of white on a black background.
I removed the back, all components look fine. No brown on any PCBs from past baking, everything looks new. Not even very dusty.
All voltages tested OK. On Z-Sus the VS hits 263 when I attach meter but jumps right down to 201 where it is supposed to be. The 5V line is at 5.1. Even VZBias at 110 V where it should be.
On the Y-Sus I saw 5.16 on the 5V line, 55.1 on VA (should be 55) and again 201.2 for VS. I disconnected LVDS and bridged points to make test patterns happen. Saw colors in the corners, nowhere else. It had appearance that matched several "Bad Z-Sus" board images on here. Specifically the mandelbrot shapes in corners.
All fuses on both Y & Z Sus boards are fine. I looked at Z-Sus board under a lighted magnifying light on both sides. No scorching, no tiny craters on hard to see dark components. And yes, I did look for bad solder joints, specifically on the 3 large coils. All soldering looked fine. I should mention that I run a small business which involves a lot of SOIC-8 EEPROM replacement on GPUs. So I have a hot air station and pencil irons, etc. I also have a larger 60W gun and a $30 Heat Gun that can be used when larger item needs to go.
Sometimes on a PC GPU parts of the power circuit will blow a tiny crater in their top surface.
Anyhow, no such luck, nothing visible. In reading other Z-Sus threads for this machine I noticed that most involved blown fuses and resistors at base of IGBT chips.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...t=igbt+60pv450
I decided to just order a Z-Sus board since it seemed a likely culprit, based on symptoms. Then I discovered that nobody had them.
Here is the shop jimmy page:
http://www.shopjimmy.com/lg-ebr73561701-zsus-board.htm
The only options I see are some repair kits on Ebay and 2 repair services where you send your board in. I noticed that the repair kits basically have all of the parts mentioned in the 1st thread I linked. But if I don't have anything (obviously) blown or shorted. If I turn it on, all I see is an occasional splash of white dots where the "no connection" notice is bouncing around. It will stay on like this for 10-15 minutes then eventually turn off.
In short, I'm afraid that the standard repair kit may not be what is needed and if those people on Ebay doing repairs are just using same parts they buy in a kit.....
Anyhow, I got excited reading that some boards can be interchanged. I had a look at the model right before mine:
http://www.shopjimmy.com/lg-ebr63450501-zsus-board.htm
It looked like the same basic board. And they are a dime-a-dozen. As little as $7 on Ebay. Looked like same plugs in same places. So I bought one.
Got the board yesterday and realized first that screw holes in wrong places, only 3 match up. But I had to know. I had to cover parts of board where the studs came up and met components.
And for the first time in almost 2 weeks, it fired up. But it isn't perfect. All of the plugs were the same, EXCEPT there was a 5V line coming into the proper part from the PSU , but the older Z-Sus didn't have that pin connected. It doesn't have a 5V line in from PSU.
In all of my fiddling with remote while I couldn't see anything, i had evidently selected "CABLE TV" as input. SO screen was full of snow. Oddly, it wouldn't let me choose another input. And I finally realized that the menus were also wrong, they had bursts of orange in the blue. So I turned it off and put the original Z-Sus back in. Still dark.
My number one priority is to get the set running. My living room looks silly with a 30" computer display set up in front of Plasma so I have something to look at. I have PM'd a member who mentioned a spare good Z-Sus board. I realize that my experiment was not wise, but it would seem that I know that there is SOMETHING wrong on my Z-Sus. The voltage is present at VZBIAS test point, but must not be getting sent out to power the screen.
My other thought on this is I can't help but notice a LACK of threads complaining about the older model's Z-Sus board. And they are plentiful everywhere I look, while the 60PV450 Z-Sus boards are N/A.
So, it would have been wonderful if they worked in the newer set, but evidently they don't. My next thought is wondering if whatever blew on my board is also present on the older board, which I could use as a donor. If a more robust version is on those older boards, could be a good thing.
I have a DMM auto-ranging and general electrical skills. I am concerned that the typical kit is to repair a burned out IGBT that also takes down a few SMD resistors and a Fuse, none of which has happened to mine. I am also concerned that if I buy the kit and do the repair and that does't fix it I will have to send to a shop but they specifically mention "no prior work".
Will appreciate any info.
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