Yes those optos would work, but shorting 3&4 should have told the power supply to turn full on.
What is the background on this tv? did it just not turn on one day?
Looking back at that picture in post #22, that looks to me like something shorted the trace near R10 and that is what opened RF1.
Yes those optos would work, but shorting 3&4 should have told the power supply to turn full on.
What is the background on this tv? did it just not turn on one day?
I'll see if I can find out from the guy I got it from. It didn't look like anyone had been in it. Thanks for help. I've learned a lot from y'all.
Are you still getting 360 volts on the main filter caps? if you are then we know the pfc section is working.
The fact you get some voltage, although low means the circuit driving T1 is working but if the pfc is not working that circuit is only operating with 160v
Heat the opto with a hairdryer see if your voltages come up, go ahead and switch out the opto, if for nothing else to eliminate it from possible suspects.
Heat the opto with a hairdryer see if your voltages come up, go ahead and switch out the opto, if for nothing else to eliminate it from possible suspects.
What is the background on this tv? did it just not turn on one day?
The guy said that the "outlet" it was plugged into "went out". He said the TV worked after that but remembers the speakers crackling one morning and sounding funny. It quit working soon after. Just no power one day.
He says they had too much stuff plugged into the same outlet as the TV and the house isn't grounded.
may be..LOL or yours hair dryer u used before was soldering hot air gun..LOL spare time and replace this boards but be alarm that you will just go back to first point to read 80 13 volts only
my hot air station is made from a contraption that attaches to a common hair dryer. They burn up after a few months, but hair dryers are really cheap at yard sales.
Looks like this is spinning in circles, I would isolate the powerboard and force it on, see what's missing and fix what's not working. Most repair manuals say check the standby voltage of powerboard if it's not there it needs fixed first.
these are for reset / reload same to LG OLED, after replace C10 you have cycles of volts. over this forum i followed trouble shooting with user over the phone and we do find he had cracked MOFST. at HOT Area. so i doubt the C10 was bad.. as you my have now cracked MOFST or Diode under cooling sink or the U1 self. best way take parts out from board and test them
these are for reset / reload same to LG OLED, after replace C10 you have cycles of volts. over this forum i followed trouble shooting with user over the phone and we do find he had cracked MOFST. at HOT Area. so i doubt the C10 was bad.. as you my have now cracked MOFST or Diode under cooling sink or the U1 self. best way take parts out from board and test them
I had removed and checked all of those parts under the heatsink before. They tested ok on a cheapie LCRT4 checker. I don't know how reliable that is. C10 was shorting out and causing Q15 to read .5 ohms. Both the LCRT4 and ohm meter shows C10 as a dead short. It is a (badcap).
All of the electrolytic caps on the power supply test good in circuit with ESR meter.
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