Re: Samsung UN48H6350 - Going Crazy
Thanks for the reply.
To me, it looks the IR and controls are tied together.
What I just did was unplug the cable coming from the IR/wifi/button module where it plugs into the main board. I fired it up and it does the same thing.
I'm assuming this is saying I need a new main board?
Thanks again....
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Samsung UN48H6350 - Going Crazy
Hi all. I've got a Samsung UN48H6350 that suddenly started going crazy.
The volume goes all the way up then down, inputs keep changing, it turns on and off. It's constant too. I unplugged all inputs from it thinking it might be a CEC issue with no luck. Unplugged it overnight with no change.
I did read something that said this is fairly common with some Samsungs. If this is a board swap, I was wondering if anyone knew about this issue and could tell me what board needs replacing.
Thanks!
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Re: Ceiling Fan Speed Capacitor
I just wanted to say thanks everyone!
I bought a replacement cap and wire nutted off the unneeded lead. Hooked it up and it works perfectly.
My girls think I'm a genius...
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Re: Ceiling Fan Speed Capacitor
Just curious. Are those resistors just an extra safety thing or would it be inadvisable to go without? In all of the searching I've done looking for these caps, I have not seen another with resistors.
Thanks....
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Re: Ceiling Fan Speed Capacitor
If I were to buy something like in the picture I'm attaching, could I just leave out the brown and end up with the same thing?
Hopefully, that's not a really stupid question......
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Ceiling Fan Speed Capacitor
I've got a bulging capacitor in my ceiling fan that only gives me high speed.
It's a 4-wire guy and I'm having a heck of a time finding a direct replacement. I've attached a pic of mine. As you can see, it's a 4uf - 5uf. The closest I can find is a 5uf - 5uf.
Would this work?
Thanks!...
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Re: Crest CKS400 Amp - Buzzing Relay
Thanks for taking the time!
I've got a new relay ordered and I'll post the results.
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Crest CKS400 Amp - Buzzing Relay
Hi all. I've got a Crest CKS400 amp that's got a buzzing power relay.
Originally, the relay would buzz until the unit was turned off. Now, it buzzes for a second and stops. The relay also shows a blue spark when first powered.
My question is, is it likely this is just a bad relay (Potter & Brumfield K10P-11A15-120) or do you thing it's something else making the relay lose it's mind?
Thanks!
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Re: Hafler Amp Output Transister Replacement
Thanks folks for all of your help!
I printed out the wiring diagram and realized I didn't know much of what I was looking at... but, there are a few things I noticed. There's a row of six transistors on the same heat sink. The first two are the IRF9540's, the next two are IRF540N's, and then there's one each of a LM337SP and a LM317T.
From the tiny bit I know, it looks like the last two are the output transistors and the others are farther up the chain. I pulled one of the IRF9540's and it tested bad. ...
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Re: Hafler Amp Output Transister Replacement
Thanks all.
The only reason I was going to replace the transistors is because that's my go-to fix for a bad amp. I've done it before several times, but yeah, the channel was always dead - not clipping.
I'm great with a soldering iron, but not troubleshooting.
Any pointers on where to look first? I guessing somewhere in the input stage???
Thanks.
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Hafler Amp Output Transister Replacement
Hi folks. I've got a Hafler P1000 that has channel 2 with a clipping light on and sounds fuzzy.
I was going to replace the output transistors and looked up the part number, but the original (IRF9540N) are obsolete. I can get a lot of new variations of the original, but I can't match the specs.
How important is matching the Drain Source Resistant and Gate Source Voltage?
From Mouser's website, the original has a DSR of 200 mOhms and a GSV of 20V. I can find a DSR of 200, but the GSV is 10V. Or, I can find a DSR of 117 mOhms and GSV is 20V.
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Re: Sharp LC-52LE640U Bad Panel?
Well, something's changed... Now, I no longer have the 5/2 blinks. With the one ribbon cable plugged in, I have the left half of the screen working great. When I plug the second cable in, I get an image on both sides, but the whole screen is faint, flickering, and blotchy.
I noticed too, the when the second cable is plugged in, I get a slight buzz from the tcon board.
tom66, would the MLCC you mention be on the driver board?
Thanks.
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Sharp LC-52LE640U Bad Panel?
I've got a Sharp LC-52LE640U that flashes 5 fast/2 slow. I've finally gotten half of the screen to work perfectly.
When I disconnected the two ribbon cables from the t-con board to the panel, the blinking stopped. I then plugged one cable back in and I got half the screen working great, but the other half is white. When I plug the other one in, it dies and I get the error again.
Is this definitely a bad LCD panel? Is it worth even thinking about repairing it?
Thanks.
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Re: Sharp LC-52LE640U Error Code & Voltages
I just wanted to bump this back up to see if anyone had some ideas...
Thanks.
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Re: Sharp LC-52LE640U Error Code & Voltages
Here's a pic I grabbed off the web. It's the same board....
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Sharp LC-52LE640U Error Code & Voltages
Hi, I've got a Sharp LC-52LE640U that has a black screen and the symbol is flashing 5-fast & 2-slow. According to the service manual, it's a "DET_PNL12V failure". I've read that this may not be a problem with the power supply, but with the main board.
When I plug it in, I'm getting 5V on pin 15 of the 24-pin connector. If I hold the VOL-DOWN & Input buttons when I plug it in, I get this (I can only get to the odd numbered contacts since I need to leave the 24-pin connector plugged in):
Pin 1 - 12V
Pin 5 - 13.1V
Pin 7 - 13.1V
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Sharp LC-52LE640U - DET_PNL12V failure
Hi all...
I've got myself the above mentioned TV and the 'V' is flashing 2 slow/5 fast which supposedly means 'DET_PNL12V failure'. The TV shows zero signs of life aside from the flashing 'V'.
I've disconnected everything but the 120v from the power supply and used my Fluke to check the pins on the 24-pin connector. I'm only seeing 5v on one pin. That's it.
From what I've gathered, I need to put a load on it by using 1157 bulbs. Is there a good description somewhere describing how to do this? I see no bulging caps or other signs of failure.
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