Re: Small cap replacements for Sony CRT
Ahh. I was probably filtering for Active as opposed to Obsolete but neglected Not for New Designs, and that filter was activated 30 capacitors back. Cool
ckrtech
Senior Member
Last Activity: 10-23-2020, 03:15 PM
Joined: 12-04-2014
Location: Seattle, WA
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Re: Small cap replacements for Sony CRT
Hmm. Price-wise, perhaps bumping to 100v max would work so long as diameter and lead spacing stays the same? I assume some of the lytics' stats would change a bit, but I don't know off the top of my head how much upping the voltage rating on a low uf electrolytic would affect the applicable circuit.
Bumping to 100v greenlights me to NichiconLeave a comment:
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Small cap replacements for Sony CRT
Hey guys -
I am currently recapping an old Sony Trinitron CRT - some of the caps inside are crusty and have failed while others are just getting a refresh.
I have a list for the primary board, tuner, and neck board, and I need some caps with lower uf values.
50V with 0.1, 0.22, 0.33, and 0.47.
Most of the ones coming up on Digikey are BP caps. There are a few ELNA caps that fit the stats, but - Should I look to jump to something more common like 2.2uf?
I've attached relevant files - a photo of the caps I have left, the... -
Re: 1987 Toshiba CRT vertical section caps and LCR meter ESR readings
Thank you, Andrew.Leave a comment:
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Re: 1987 Toshiba CRT vertical section caps and LCR meter ESR readings
Sounds like a plan. I am doing a full recap on a Sony set, and I figured I would order caps for the Toshiba along with the Sony caps once I have their values. Easy drop in the bucket to just refresh all eight of the Toshiba ones. There was one larger sized cap in the section that I didn't pull that seemed to have a fairly low ESR when I measured it in circuit. I was planning to leave that one.
I did mess around with the vertical size pot a bit to see if I could expand it (after a bit of contact cleaner)....Leave a comment:
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Re: 1987 Toshiba CRT vertical section caps and LCR meter ESR readings
I actually pulled the caps prior to obtaining the LCR meter, so those measurements are from out of circuit. Model is Toshiba CF317. Chassis 8710. October 1987. I can add a photo of what it looks like tomorrow.
I believe there were perhaps two retrace lines to help "kick-off" the start of the picture. I wasn't sure if I should call them retrace lines as whatever they were was only at the top of the image as I didn't see them in the remaining picture when sending a signal to the RF input -...Last edited by ckrtech; 08-19-2018, 02:05 AM.Leave a comment:
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1987 Toshiba CRT vertical section caps and LCR meter ESR readings
Hey guys -
So I finally picked up an LCR meter (DE-5000) to start doing readings and boost understanding a bit.
I have a Toshiba CRT with partial vertical collapse. I have no service manual. I assume caps are circa 1987, but there is quite a mix in brands in a small area.
Probes calibrated. Caps discharged. Readings attached.
1: I am primarily interested in measuring ESR @ 100kHz, correct? It seems like I was getting some pretty large numbers relative to what I would expect. Are they really that bad? I included other frequencies for reference....Last edited by ckrtech; 08-18-2018, 04:39 PM. -
Re: Replace the big cap in a Samsung monitor
Caps arrived. Soldered in. Samsung 275T Plus *definitely* needed to have the 450WV 150uf cap replaced.
No flicker. Good as new.
Thanks for the assistance.Leave a comment:
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Re: Replace the big cap in a Samsung monitor
Oops. Didn't consider *shorter* ones.
[url]https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/LGJ2W151MELC20?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22aC%252bmz9Ez8i6E%252bZaeG26VG4%3d[/url]
Looks like that would work.Re: Replace the big cap in a Samsung...at would work.Re: Replace the big cap in aLeave a comment:
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Re: Replace the big cap in a Samsung monitor
Dang. Digikey doesn't carry that one, but Mouser does. I guess I could order from Mouser.
I never really use the capacitance testing on my multimeter, but I used it on the large 150uf cap with it out of circuit. It hits around 28 nf.
Package works well with this one, but the ripple current isn't quite as high as the Sanwha claim - [url]https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/United-Chemi-Con/EKMH451VNN151MA25T?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22RsNyZ18DI1KR%252b7y2WQz2dY%3d[/url]Re: Replace the big cap in a Samsung monitorLast edited by ckrtech; 07-30-2018, 02:34 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Replace the big cap in a Samsung monitor
I am about to order some replacement caps for a old Sony Trinitron TV, so I figured I would finally lop in some for this monitor. I suppose I could get 6 for the invertor.
The flickering was the first thing to start happening - and that was maybe 2011-2012 - only 3-4 years after I purchased it. It gained in frequency of occurance until in 2014 it would sometimes just not turn on. After the power board recap (minus the 450v), it came back to life but would still have the flicker.
Do you have a recommendation...Leave a comment:
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Re: Replace the big cap in a Samsung monitor
Panasonic FM. I think they should be OK. I believe the flicker/warm-up issue remained after replacing those caps, but prior to replacement... the monitor wouldn't turn on.
The input board uses SMD caps. I haven't removed it to take a look.
The - what I assume to be - scan board on the side of the display uses 6 caps in groups of three. I did not replace these this first time... (pic included)
Samsung 275T Plus monitor. Acquired in 2008, I believe....Leave a comment:
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Re: Replace the big cap in a Samsung monitor
Looks like this might be the datasheet: [url]https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/97429a8f92e53c047938817dd4e28424.pdf[/url]Re: Replace the big cap in a Samsung...8424.pdf[/url]Leave a comment:
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Replace the big cap in a Samsung monitor
Hey guys -
A few years ago (goodness), I recapped the power board of a Samsung 27" monitor by replacing all electrolytics except for the big guy (450wv 150uf) made by... Samwha. Details are [URL="https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=42647"]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=42647[/URL]
The monitor came back to life and continues working to this day, however it requires time to warm up. It turns on flickers every few seconds 5 seconds, 10 seconds, 1 second, 1 second...just randomly until it finally stabilizes.
I [i]assume[/i]... -
Re: A perfectly non-functional 5V 5A AC/DC from China
They seem OK. .593 on the diodes. I get a reading when proving each leg combo of the MOSFET.
It is possible that the bad solder joint basically prevented me from accurately getting a reading with the capacitor in circuit since it was detached from the board (more or less) - so measuring resistance with it in circuit was never really an "in circuit" measurement.Leave a comment:
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Re: A perfectly non-functional 5V 5A AC/DC from China
No continuity across removed cap. Measuring the two PCB points after extraction, I get like 700kohm (increasing).
I bent a small cap near the output side for the photo, and the tension basically lifted a pad for one leg.
...
Leave a comment:
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Re: A perfectly non-functional 5V 5A AC/DC from China
I'll try to get some better photos of the PSU top and bottom within the next couple of days as well as get the glue off the component and extract it.Leave a comment:
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Re: A perfectly non-functional 5V 5A AC/DC from China
Apologies for the focus. Should have used an index card or something to help.
I couldn't really find anything that was obviously burned aside from a rather tinged side of the X2 (?) cap?
I don't know how to [i]properly[/i] test it, but I can say:
1: I assume it blew
2: 0 ohm when metering the two leads = see #1?
Terrible photos show a somewhat gently mangled bottom of the box and a bad solder joint just underneath.Re: A perfectly non-functional 5V 5A AC/DC from China...Last edited by ckrtech; 11-30-2017, 12:47 AM.Leave a comment:
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A perfectly non-functional 5V 5A AC/DC from China
I have a DVDO Scaler (iScan HD) from Anchor Bay that asks for 6V 5A DC input. The power supply that was provided with it (secondhand) is... err... [i]was[/i] a generic, made in China, 5V 5A AC/DC converter.
It has been awhile since I had last powered it up (and it hasn't been plugged in during this time). Upon plugging it in today, I got a rather abrupt, metallic "pop" from inside, and the LED never lit again.
So I decided to crack it open and take a look.
What blew? The X-cap? That is my best guess - based on... smell.
Should... -
Re: Enlight HPC-250-101 is aging
Hey thanks for the added thoughts, guys. Sorry I was late checking in.Leave a comment:
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